xxxtreme22r

I just got done rebuilding my 22r, finally got it in, cranked the starter with the plugs in and coil not, a few times to help prime the pump which was filled with grease per engbldr. Started ok some noise from the timing chain but the oil light went out. Checked rpm and i was at maybe 4000 for less than 2-3 minutes, lowered the idle back down to around 2000 to finished the breakin. Then i noticed the oil light comes on, (not quite sure how long, not more than maybe 2-3 minutes if that. Engine ran for a total of no more than 10 minutes. I shut it off as soon as I noticed the oil light and hook up an after maket gauge to get a more accurate oil pressure reading when the next thing i know it wont crank over. starter plunger and everything works ok. however has trouble turning the motor, as well as I do when i try with a breaker bar. I took out the plugs, no oil, but may have run a little lean (timing maybe?) tried turning it over and same things. I know the motor turned free before because of when i did the valve lash, and the fact it did run pretty good when it was running. no weird noises that i noticed.

I took the oil pan off to see what was going on, all i noticed was a wad of grease covering the oil pump screen, not sure how much, couldnt see it but it was enough to feel. the rods dont seem to have alot of play at all and just a little forward and after movement.

thanks. any help is appreciated.

xxxtreme22r

UPDATE:


Well I did what I thought, and confirmed.

ANOTHER #4 rod bearing spun.

Took it out only to find bearing material stuck in the holes on the cap side, no rod or crank holes plugged up. Doesn't look like it took out the crank though, just some minor lines and such. not sure if I will get away with just replacing the bearing, or have to take the head out and have that rod checked again. This is the rod I had to replace with the re-manned rod when the original bearing took out the crank and rod. WHile inspecting the damage I did notice that the bearing was slightly bigger and overhanging a bit on the cap. I think what might have happend is that when the rods where torqued down it might have pinched the edges too much casuing it to bow out torad the crank and when it wore down it collected in the cap holes within the bearing.

What do you all think?

xxxtreme22r

Another related question would be if I am reading the manual right the oil pressure "idiot light" comes on at 2.8psi on these 22r's?

xxxtreme22r

packed full of sta-lube blue marine bearing grease per engbldr, the 4000 was an accident as the tach was not working properly, i did drop down to 2000 but shortly thereafter thats when i got the idiot light. I agree with the idiot light vs the mechanical, which i have but due to rushing i didnt hook it up. it is now and ready to go. not sure I think i am going to try just replacing the rod bearing with a set of $16 sealed power's becaus ethe crank does not look too scarred up. just a little uneven wear but probably due to not fully breaking in the engine. if it spins again then i know i got to have that rod looked at and the crank turned. I would only be out an extra $16 and some work to get the oil pan off which is already done anyway.

xxxtreme22r

Tod at engbldr pretty much agrees too, that I am on the right track that it was just something happened to have been in the bearing on the build. But could be likely that the rod was bad from the machine shop who ever did it. Crank again does not look scored just some uneven wear which Tod said was normal since it wasnt fully broken in. Thank god the bearing took the brunt of whatever seized it up. Not sure when I am gonna get around to changing them bearings since it's raining again in the good ole northeast. I guess it could be worse, it could be snow and I'd have to travel that mountain i got to go up to go to work with my RWD BMW.

xxxtreme22r

well, got to pull motor and pull crank, apparently #3 bearing was the one that was turned and sent material into #4. I hope it was just some thiong that got into the bearing during the build. Brand new crank too. Hopefully the machine shop will be able to re grind it. Sucks cus I didn't want to go with over sized bearings.

xxxtreme22r

here's the update, i have just decided to get another new crank and brand new rods to eliminate the chance that the rods were bad from the old setup. I don't trust machine shops. there's another thing that was bothering me when the guy shaved down the block and the fact the idiot didnt tank it afterwords, just blew off the block. i am thinking maybe something got into the oil passages in my brand newly machined block after being tanked 3 times before that at the shop that did the boring. im just hoping its fine now, cus i don;'t have the money to tank the head and block again.

toyotabull

When you put the new bearings, get you some plasti-gauge and use that. Lay it on the crank journal, put the bearing and cap on and torque it down to spec. Do not rotate the crank. Pull the bearing and cap back off and measure the plasti-gauge and see what your clearance is. that should save you some money if there is a problem that will help you find it before you put the mptor back together completely. Anotherthing I do is soak all new bearings and the new timing chain in Royal Purple motor oil for a day before going together with an engine. Hope this helps

xxxtreme22r

thanks for the advice, everything clearanced good the first time, so i don't think it was a clearance issue. i might try soaking but i had a pretty good layer of that sta-lube blue marine bearing grease on everything as well. which is what Tod at ENGNBLDR uses as well.

xxxtreme22r

Well another update, oil pressures is low after the second rebuild as well. I got to pull it again. didnt sieze this time but pressure started at 20psi at 2500, and when it started to warm up went to almost 0 and idiot light came on again. don't think i fried any bearings this time. but we will see. I think maybe a galley plug is leaking? They were all there when i rebuilt it both times. Time will tell I guess.

Also is it possible that i have a bolt in the wrong position ie too long? blocking oil passage somewhere?

xxxtreme22r

I'm a freakin dumbass, front oil galley plug missing. GRRRRRR....... I MISSED IT TWICE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!! NO I am hoping those bearings are still good. didn't sieze up the second time though so who knows. Gotta pull the rod caps to check.

bugs1961

Bummer, but it happens to the best once in a while. Glad you found it and let us know how it comes out.

xxxtreme22r

#3 and 4 bearings looked good after taking the caps off, just gonna put it back together and hope the mains are ok. should have it in and running tommorow.