Learning

I did some research on engine paint kit. It seems to me that using high heat (500 degrees fahrenheit or 2000 degree fahrenheit, which one?) engine paint along with the primer and clear coat would do the job. First, use engine degreaser to remove the dirt, grease, etc., and rinse the part to be painted using a garden hose and nozzle spray. Wipe off the part clean and let it thoroughly dry prior to putting on the primer (how many coats and drying between coats?) and let that dry, too, first. How long to let the part (after using the primer) to dry prior using high heat engine paint and lastly the clear coat paint (or is it the other way around, primer, clear coat, engine paint in sequence)?

If that is the case, how many coats of primer, high engine paint and clear coat are needed? Where else can I paint around the engine area besides the valve cover, intake manifold and the EFI housing? How about the exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold heat insulator, as well as others that can be done?

Learning

Also, what engine paint kit recommended? Does it have full instructions regarding the painting process? Did anyone had this experience using engine paint kit?

Learning

Can the engine paint kit applies to starter, alternator and other engine parts as well?

Learning

While I doing some research on the engine paint kit, I came across this

Learning

Here is an interesting article I found while researching engine paint kit: http://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to-paint-an-engine/

I noticed that the above article does not use primer paint at all.

gsp4life

I'm not aware of a clear coat that'll withstand engine heat for very long, they become cloudy.

I didn't even try to paint my exhaust manifold but the heat shield itself was no problem. I just used Rust-Oleum high heat and it's held up fine on the shield and several other parts.

The main factor to the paint holding up is your prep work. You want a surface free of oil, dirt or rust. Use a strong degreaser, then wash that off with soapy water and finally a residue-free solvent (acetone works well). This will be easiest with the parts you want to paint out of the truck.

From there, following the instructions from the paint manufacturer should give you a decent result. It's mostly about the grueling prep work...

Learning

gsp4life thanks for your feedback. I finally decided to go ahead and use rustoleum 500 degree F, engine paint spray can for the short block and cylinder head using the various tips found on youtube.

RabidSmurf

I used POR15 engine enamel, and I am very impressed with the result, it seems to be a pretty durable paint job. Basically you strip/clean the metal, apply a metal prep/rust convert then brush on POR15 base coat, and then brush on POR15 enamel top coat. I believe you can buy an entire kit.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Engine-Painting-Kit_p_49.html

Learning

RabidSnurf, thanks for your feedback as well. This por15 engine-Painting-Kit is interesting. I may reconsider my painting options. I will follow up on this. Stay tune.

RabidSmurf

Just as some anecdotal evidence, I had an oil leak have been spraying the block with brake clean to clean it off, it does not affect the enamel at all (it has had several months to cure now though), it's pretty tough. As long as you follow the directions my personal feeling is the result will be better and last longer than any rattlecan solution, and if you're stripping the engine anyway for a rebuild or whatever, it's worth the extra time.

Learning

RabidSmurf, I am having both my engine block and cylinder head rebuild at a local machine shop. I wanted to paint all areas of the engine to protect my investment and long lasting as well. I would like to paint other parts, including the EFI housing, intake manifold, timing chain cover, valve cover,, exhaut manifold, exhaust manifold shell cover, alternator, starter motor, etc. Can that be done without damaging the parts as describe above? Any other parts that I can paint not mentioning here?

Learning

Also, I noticed the Por15 engine painting kit description saying the maximum temperature of the engine that Por15 engine painting kit can handle is 350 degrees. I am not sure of the engine maximum temperature if the engine gets hot and the paint will melt away.

RabidSmurf

I painted only the engine block with engine enamel. I left the head and timing cover alone because it's aluminum and it doesn't really need to be painted (in my honest opinion). But I am not building a show car either, so it depends what you're after. I think to get paint to stick to aluminum you need to rough it up pretty good with sand paper, or sand blasting which will leave a texture behind. Maybe someone else knows a better way, I am by no means an expert.

I did do a decorative valve cover, engine enamel would work fine for that too as long as you sand it good. I actually sandblasted it and used duplicolor self etching primer followed by a high heat engine paint (rattlecan) which required oven baking, kind of a pain as you don't want to use the same oven you cook food in (I made one out of a box, tin foil, heat gun and a pid controller). If I went back and did it again I'de probably use red engine enamel instead since it cures without baking.

The exhaust manifold i just used standard VHT header paint, who knows how long at that will last, so far so good.

I wouldn't bother painting the alternator or starter personally, just give em a good clean/degrease. I did paint some other parts like the brake booster with just POR15 primer and top coat, it's not as good as the enamel I'll probably have to redo it eventually so I am not sure what to recommend for just painting random parts. POR15 and enamel seems like over kill.

You can paint the upper intake plenum for looks too (the part that says EFI on it), I also did that, same procedure I listed for valve cover except I went with "Aluminum" colored paint. Again I'de probably use engine enamel if I had to do it agian.

RabidSmurf

The engine block will be around the same temp as the coolant, it should not get much hotter than 220f, if it does you have cooling problems. The exhaust manifold definitely will get hotter than that though, which is why you want to use header paint or the like.

Learning

RabidSmurf , thank you very much for your previous posts. I appreciated it. Your helpful hints about the painting process and what parts to avoid painting is very gratifying to know. This is my very first time ever to paint the engine area and I wanted to know and make sure I do this painting job right and correctly as well as what parts not to paint in the engine area. Thank you again.

gsp4life

Agreed about not painting the starter or alternator. I'd think getting paint inside the alternator could lead to early failure.

Also you're dead-set on painting the head, mask off all openings to the inside, including air, water and oil passages. Also mask off areas that will be covered by a gasket. The paint could chip or burn off and result in the same type of problems caused by not having an air or oil filter. Keep the gasket surfaces paint-free if you want it to seal well.

I'd guess most people don't paint the head because so little of it is visible, the tape job would be a PITA and it's aluminum finish holds up well for many years anyway.

Check out Google images for some ideas on what to paint and how it looks, there are some really good results if you're into the painted engine look.

scope103

I believe painting the head is quite common; most machine shops I'm familiar with paint every head. They use a silver paint so it looks like new aluminum. And on mine anyway, it lasts a very long time. I wouldn't have paid extra for it, but I must say it looked really good.