engine knock after oil change 22r
#1
engine knock after oil change 22r
So i just bought my new baby. A 1986 4x4 pickup with a 22r under the hood. I am in love. After a week, a carb rebuild (which seemed way easier that a lot of guys made it sound), fixed oil leak (new valve cover gasket), and fixed alternator short, i decided it was time to clean all the oil off of the engine and change the oil.
Problem is after the oil change now the engine has a knock that sounds like a rod knock or a rocker tick or something. I used a wix oil filter and castrol syntec 10w-30 oil with a bottle of lucas oil additive.
I have always done oil changes the same way and never had an engine knock after but this is going to drive me crazy. would a valve adjustment help?if so what are the specs for the valves?
Problem is after the oil change now the engine has a knock that sounds like a rod knock or a rocker tick or something. I used a wix oil filter and castrol syntec 10w-30 oil with a bottle of lucas oil additive.
I have always done oil changes the same way and never had an engine knock after but this is going to drive me crazy. would a valve adjustment help?if so what are the specs for the valves?
#2
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how bad was the oil that came out? try a different filter, i've seen numerous tsb's (from numerous manufacterers) that aftermarket filters can cause noise. not sure how. wix is a good brand though. its possible that new oil cleaned a bunch of gunk inside the motor and has plugged the oil pickup, but i doubt it.
#3
I don't think the kid I bought it from had ever done an oil change. The old oil was like liquid black abyss. Am I crazy for thinking the knock is from the oil change? It seems crazy to me but that is the only thing I did before it started
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It's possible that the old, waxy oil was masking some sort of noise; you might even damp the noise with a thicker grade of oil. But that doesn't solve the problem.
Fixing a loose rod bearing is a BDD; adjusting the valves is just maintenance. You'll see that if you get down to needing an adjustment it is done by replacing shims. To remove the shims you'll need this tool: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181245585798?lpid=82 You can try doing it without the tool, but all you'll accomplish is practicing your cursing. Finding the replacement shims is non-trivial; I've lucked out at the dealer and a machine shop.
#5
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did you change the oil and valve cover gasket at the same time? check and make sure you didn't overtighten the valve cover,the acorn nuts should basically be finger tight then a quarter to half a turn,or 9 inch pounds I believe.if you over tighten these the valve cover will hit the rocker rail.start it up and back off your nuts a little at a time and see if it goes away.
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You'll see that if you get down to needing an adjustment it is done by replacing shims. To remove the shims you'll need this tool: Toyota Lexus Valve Adjusting Adjustment Tool Pliers | eBay You can try doing it without the tool, but all you'll accomplish is practicing your cursing. Finding the replacement shims is non-trivial; I've lucked out at the dealer and a machine shop.
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#11
...check and make sure you didn't overtighten the valve cover,...
That could be your problem.
Last edited by maverick_4x4; 11-07-2013 at 01:22 PM.
#15
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I've never been a fan of oil Additives no matter the brand. Our vehicles and all mechanical components in general were designed around a specific lubrication. If you use the correct oil anything else is unneeded.
Teflon is a ingredient in most additives and is totally unnecessary... Especially in a engine!
Teflon is a ingredient in most additives and is totally unnecessary... Especially in a engine!
#17
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Lucas is great at advertising but not at oil. Here's an interesting stackup of standard synthetics:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013P...sallfinal.html
One of the main things to notice is the NOACK volatility. This is a measure of how much of the oil burns off at a particular temperature/time condition. Most of these synthetics hit about 10%. Really good ones hit 6-7%. The legal maximum via API is 15%. Lucas is 14.9%.
You might enjoy searching for opinions on bobistheoilguy.com
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013P...sallfinal.html
One of the main things to notice is the NOACK volatility. This is a measure of how much of the oil burns off at a particular temperature/time condition. Most of these synthetics hit about 10%. Really good ones hit 6-7%. The legal maximum via API is 15%. Lucas is 14.9%.
You might enjoy searching for opinions on bobistheoilguy.com
#18
Hey that is some really good information. Thanks a ton. I like to see actual work ups on stuff like that cause it is sometimes getting harder and harder to know what is reliable product info anymore. Everybody has their own opinion but numbers rarely lie. Thanks again that site is eyeopening.
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