4runnerstalls

About a month ago i started having issues with my 92 4 runner stalling out/Bucking in drive. I took it to toyota and they installed a new mass air meter. About a week later it started stalling dying when i get to about 2500 rpms. I took it back to toyota and they wanted 2300 up front saying it was electrical issue they would have to figure out. This is more than value and it seemed they just didnt want to work on it so I took it to another shop where they checked all vacuum etc and everything checked fine when sitting in idle but again as soon as you try to drive down the road it dies once it gets up to about 3k rpms. The engine only has 30k miles and runs great so i really need to figure this out myself. Where should I start to locate a wiring issue??

AKHeathen

first thing i would do is put a fuel pressure meter on it and check the plugs. even if you have to pull the hood to see the guage when it happens.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

When was the last complete tune up? New plugs, wires, fuel filter, rotor, cap. Once that is done I would check to see if all vacuum lines are routed correctly and no air leaks. Then I would check to see all sensors are making great contact. I would then check to see if my coil was good with some resistance checks. I am sure you have the 3.0 in your truck as is most likely. After those checks are done, maybe some of the 3.0 guys might have some suggestions.

scope103

Since 4runnerstalls has already been to the shop twice, the vacuum lines are probably correct. ("trust, but verify"). A bad coil should drop the IGF signal, which would throw a code (surely the codes have been checked by now).

So I'm guessing AKHeathen is on the right track. But checking fuel pressure isn't easy, so I'd start by trying to get it to stall out-of-gear, on the road, and on a hill (all different fuel demands). If it won't stall out-of-gear, but stalls earlier on the hill, that makes it sound like fuel delivery.

To test the fuel pressure you'll need a fuel pressure gauge (duh!). Since your truck doesn't have a schraeder valve on the rail, you'll need an adapter like this: https://actron.com/content/banjo-bolt-m1215 (the Actron CP7838 comes with one). Note that CANNOT reuse the crush washers you will remove to install the adapter. You can probably get away with it just to run a quick pressure test, but once you button it back up you have to get new crush washers. Around $1 apiece, only at a dealer.

Notice that no one is pointing you to an "electrical issue." I suspect that was just a code-word for "heck, we don't know where to start, so it's gonna take us a lot of work to find the problem." But it IS findable; just keep thinking logically.

4runnerstalls

I cant really road test at all due to the fact it wont even make it out of the parking lot. Basically it stalls and dies as soon or very shortly after I start to accelerate. This goes for both drive and reverse. Idling it runs fine. If I rev the engine in park it continues to run fine. As soon as I start to drive away (lucky to hit 20mps) .....shutdown...

scope103

If it revs in park, but not on the road, fuel delivery is the next thing I would look at.

AKHeathen

could be simple as the fuel filter, or water in the fuel.