4toy89

So my Truck was dead yesterday when I went out side to start it. I didn't think to much of it. I figured that since there was no lights in the dash and absolutely nothing was happening when I turned the key the battery was probably dead. I took it down to Les Schwab and had them test the battery. They said that the battery was bad and replaced it. My truck was running fine, then this morning I went out and tried to start my truck with the same issue. I know it cant be a bad battery so Im really stumped. I know its most likely a draw from somewhere but I am no electrician and I have no idea where to start... My only guess is it may be coming from my rear window regulator since I've had issues with my rear window functioning properly...

coryc85

Well, here's one thought, buy yourself a clamp on meter that can measure DC current. Clip it around the fusible link that goes from the fuse box to positive terminal, with ignition off, it should read a very very small amount of current. If it reads something excessive, start pulling fuses 1 at a time until it drops. Then at least you can isolate it to a particular circuit. From there, I suppose you could use the meter to trace where exactly the current is being drawn.

Is anything connected directly to the battery, like an aftermarket stereo, CB, alarm system? Are all accessories wired to power on only with ignition?

old fart

Think about this, your alternator charges your battery, keep it simple and start with your charging system. If you dont have a battery load tester, just do this: With the truck running, (once you get it started), turn on your headlights, heater on high, and any accessory that uses power, if your truck starts to bog down with high beams on and your fan on high, i'd look at your alternator as not charging your battery.

4toy89

I know its not the alternator because the battery was fully charged when I came home. I know this because the battery was just put in last night as a replacement battery for the one that went bad. Also this problem came out of no where. One day everything was fine and then the next day I have zero power. No dash lights, not clicking, not nothing when I turn the key. Battery is completely dead and I have some sort of short somewhere.

4toy89

SO idk if this is helpful information at all but I heard noise coming from my rear window regulator when the battery was drained and that suggested to me that it was trying to pull power still... so replaced it and tested it to see if that was the issue. My battery was dead a few hours later. I spoke with a few people and they said that it could be the actual switch thats bad and draing power. The switch was not working until yesterday it just started working on its own. So now its back to the drawing board....

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

If there is water getting into your relay for the back window then it will short circuit and make the window try to "roll up" even with the switch off. Happened to me a few times.

4toy89

So would that cause the power drain? Or do you think that's a separate issue?

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

If you heard the motor for the window with everything off you probably have either a bad switch on the tailgate or a short somewhere. I was saying check the relay because I had the same problem. Only mine didn't drain the battery like yours is..my window started rolling itself out while the tailgate was down.

4toy89

Ya So I replaced the relay because I already had another one. My window would go in and out of functioning properly. So after I heard that I replaced it and yesterday the window started working but I think I still have a drain issue. I appreciate the advice though. This stupid electrical problem is gonna put me in the looney home

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

Like coryc85 was saying, you can pull the fuse for the rear window and see if that helps at all. I would definitely recommend the meter to help trace it.

tj884Rdlx

these guys already said this, but maybe you missed what they meant, so i'll explain it simpler:

get a test light. remove the negative terminal, and put the test light in between. if the light is on, there's a draw somewhere in the car. remove fuses until the light goes out, and you've identified the draw. if it's the rear window, the light should go out when you pull that fuse. (make sure you don't leave your interior light on when you do this or it will show as the draw)

replacing relays is only groping in the dark. test the circuit is closed (drawing power) before pulling parts, so you can identify the problem circuit. it may not be the relay, but one of the switches, or the motor itself.

if you don't have a test light, you can use a tail lite bulb, piece of wire, and some crafty electrical tape work to make your own. you should be able to track down the draw that's killing your battery within 5 mins.