electrical guru help: power windows always working
#1
electrical guru help: power windows always working
Even with the key out. My truck has the delay where when you turn the truck off the windows work for about 60 seconds or so unless you open the door. then they are supposed to turn off immediately.
Well mine stopped doing this. They are always working… and its draining my battery.
I am not a complete rookie when it comes to wiring but I can't figure out what would cause this
please help
Well mine stopped doing this. They are always working… and its draining my battery.
I am not a complete rookie when it comes to wiring but I can't figure out what would cause this
please help
#4
both windows, and both switches work too.
If the PO wired them wrong, why would they work properly for the last year I've had the truck + however long he had it done for and then all of a sudden stop working….?
I think incorrect wiring is not the problem…
more like a faulty relay that is not switching the power off after the set time or however that system works...
If the PO wired them wrong, why would they work properly for the last year I've had the truck + however long he had it done for and then all of a sudden stop working….?
I think incorrect wiring is not the problem…
more like a faulty relay that is not switching the power off after the set time or however that system works...
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#8
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Does anything else that shouldn't be working? I had a car like this one time and it was the ignition switch was acting like it was in ACC mode, changed it out and all was fine. I couldn't find the wiring diagram for the 86 so I got the 88, shouldn't be to different
#9
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If you lower the window part way, does it stop? If so, you're probably not putting power to the motor with the key out. And I would be surprised that the door lock ECU alone, with a stuck timer, would draw enough power to run down the battery (but if something's broken, who knows what power it's drawing?)
As a quick-and-dirty, put an ammeter on the battery lead, to measure your "parasitic" current drain with the key off. If it's more than 500ma, you've got a problem somewhere. (Dome light on?) If less than 500ma, you may have a bad battery, as you should be able to put out 500ma for several weeks before noticing it.
#10
yes the door lock switch is working fine. They are always supposed to have power to them…
Does what stop if the window is lowered part way?
does a typical multimeter have a ammeter built into it? I am not familiar with that.
Thanks!
Does what stop if the window is lowered part way?
does a typical multimeter have a ammeter built into it? I am not familiar with that.
Thanks!
#12
Registered User
your time delay is created by a r/c circuit in parallel with the coil on the relay. (resistor/capacitor) The time delay is set by the charge in the capacitor slowly discharging across the resistor and remaining high enough to keep the relay energized for the calculated amount of time. if the relay contacts stay closed all of the time then you have a short somewhere in that controller. Remember that opening the door should open this circuit as well and remove power from the circuit. if this is not happening then possibly those relay contacts are welded closed? hard to say without seeing and troubleshooting the circuit myself.
#15
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if you don't have the correct ground to drain the capacitor providing the timer circuit, it will find another ground and bad things happen that aren't supposed.
Electricity finds the path of LEAST resistance. It's always there, somewhere. Those grounds straps are put in for just that reason.
That's why replacing the ground strap you did fixed it.
Electricity finds the path of LEAST resistance. It's always there, somewhere. Those grounds straps are put in for just that reason.
That's why replacing the ground strap you did fixed it.
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