rikd72

Damper replacing without intake removal.
Remove the hood. Remove coolant hoses and sensor closest to the damper. Also clearing all wiring and vacuum hoses nearby helps. I broke the vacuum hose nipple going to the charcoal canister. First remove the driver side fuel line going to the back of the engine(23802B)The banjo under the plenum is just forward and above the damper.(Screws in straight down).Caution not to slip or bend fuel line. A stuby ratchet wrench works well. Then loosen the other end adove left valve cover. Remove bolt that secures the passenger side fuel line(23811B) just behind the valve cover. A 23mm crows footusing shortest extension possible helps break loose the damper if you plan on re-using the existing damper. A wrench will work, but damage the damper. I was able to use the banjo gaskets several times cleaning the surfaces with fine sand paper. Less torque is required if using new gaskets if a wrench is used to secure. Be sure to line up the hold down bracket before you torque down. I will upload some pictures if needed.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

is that the damper? or the pressure regulator?

i thought the damper was at the front, under the throttle body, at the front of the fuel rail, next to the CSI and start time switch.

i replaced what i thought was the damper without removing anything, other than the old damper.

wally

oldblue

i think it would be a lot easier just to pull the intake. plus, it takes two people to remove the hood. if the mess of vacuum lines is scaring you, just leave them connected and lay the intake over to the side. the only things i remove are the egr nut and vacuum line, the pcv hose off the valve cover, the accelerator cable, two coolant hoses and electrical connector off the throttle body, intake boot, fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses, and thats it. i can have it off in 5min with air tools.

Rerunn

Good idea....but...I agree with removing the intake. Granted there is more than two ways to skin a cat but this seems like the rusty butter knife approach.

scope103

rikd72 has a 3VZE.
I think this method only works if the PAIR is removed (or broken); that line won't bend. You still run a pretty good risk of accidentally disconnecting a vacuum line this way, which defeats the purpose of doing it to avoid making a few notes of where the lines go. I have a good diagram (made the first time I removed the plenum) so I don't have to worry about it.

Those gaskets ("crush washers") cost about $1 each at the dealership, and they're the only thing that stands between you and gasoline spraying onto the exhaust manifold. I can understand the disappointment of having to scoot over the dealership mid-project, but it's nothing compared to the disappointment of waking up in the burn unit.

I certainly appreciate good write-ups like this. But I'm with oldblue on removing the plenum (upper intake manifold). Rikd72 didn't even save any time; he's still going to have to remove the plenum to replace the TVV that he broke (about $65). Plus removing the plenum gives you the chance to inspect the injector seals, replace the PCV valve, etc.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

oh, those minor details. carry on.

Rerunn

Yep thinking 22re too...as said carry on

rikd72

The TVV I replaced using same ratchet,longer extension,with a standard crows foot. Hood I always remove alone. Prop side bolts first to remove. It stands without the brackets. Corner to corner. Makes walking it off possible one man half brain.

rikd72

Good idea scope. Plenum needs cleaning and want to try adjusting the valves. Any smog tips?

scope103

If you want to clean the plenum, I recommend removing the end caps (they look like 2" freeze plugs, which is probably what they are) so you can get inside. I didn't do that, but wish I had. There is a part number on the end caps, so make sure you can get them first (I don't know how to remove a freeze plug without destroying it.)

If yours is like mine was, there is a lot of gunk. I had success letting it soak overnight in a strong solution of dishwasher detergent, then using a bottle brush in the passages. You might want to get a cheap plastic mortar tub to contain the mess.

Electrical and water don't mix; be sure to keep your TPS away from any cleaning solution.

This is a good exercise; mine had so much gunk the idle-ups (a/c and ps) had stopped working! With a little more, it would have obscured the EGR inlet pipe, and that would have made me fail smog with high NOx. Plus dirt in the plenum sure couldn't have helped performance.