Dumb question.
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
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socket set, some c clamps , brake cleaner block of wood
everyone has to start somewhere... im glad to see you take the ball and do your own brakes.. easy and satisfying job!
everyone has to start somewhere... im glad to see you take the ball and do your own brakes.. easy and satisfying job!
#3
What would you need the socket set for? Just remove the pins (which are clipped in), slide the pads out, push the pistons back, pads slide in, and pins go back in.
At most, you may need a small soft hammer to pop the pins loose, and pop them back in.
At most, you may need a small soft hammer to pop the pins loose, and pop them back in.
#4
Registered User
Probably for removing the tires...? The calipers are held on by allen bolts right?
#5
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Im doing my brakes monday, along with my pitman arm and idler. Idler is moving around half an inch, so my alignment has been off since i bought the truck last month....
Any tips or hidden things i should be aware of while changing brake pads? Im new to toyotas and I have no idea what to expect...
Last edited by Tubbyfatty; 11-22-2008 at 04:02 PM.
#7
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#9
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#11
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They make a really cheap tool for compressing the pistons in the calipers that's worth it's weight in gold. I used to do the c-clamp and block method until one day I felt like splurging the $8 to get the spreader and I can't believe I ever did without it. It's the only special tool you'll need, and it's dirt cheap.
This is what I'm talking about but you should be able to find it in any autoparts store:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Di.../dp/B0002SQU9K
This is what I'm talking about but you should be able to find it in any autoparts store:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Di.../dp/B0002SQU9K
#13
Registered User
I can't imagine trying to compress the pistons in the caliper without removing it from the truck. I'm sure it could be done, but the 2 minutes it takes to remove it is well worth it in my opinion...
Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on.
But of course, to each his own around here.
Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on.
But of course, to each his own around here.
#15
Problem with just trying to replace the pads as like on mine yesterday, the pads were almost gone so putting in the new much thicker pads the piston calipers were going to have to be compressed. On the truck would have been interesting with a c clamp so I just took the calipers off. Don't forget to remove the top on the MC if you are going to compress them on the truck so the fluid/air has somewhere to go. Problem you might have was what happened to me with 87 yesterday...pads were shot so I was going to replace them, then when I got to putting the pads in I noticed the rotor on the driver's side was grooved like an LP...so I ended up doing a brake job. $100 for new front rotors/pads. Stops much nicer now.
For front pads/rotors:
21mm socket for lug nuts
10mm socket for manual hub dial face bolts
12mm socket for manul hub dial nuts and bolt on end of axle
Brass drift for cone washers
Small bladed flat head screwdriver for cone washers
3 lb sledge hammer
54mm socket for wheel bearing nuts
Bigger bladed flat head screwdriver for star washer tab bending
14mm for rotor bolts
Jack
Jack stands
Wheel bearing grease
Lots of paper towels
Impact/air tools
10mm flare wrench for brake lines
C-clamp for pistons in brake caliper
Brake fluid
Vacuum plugs to cap brake lines when removed from caliper to save having to rebleed the whole system
Brake cleaner (the good flammable kind)
Mechanic gloves or Nitrine as this is MESSY
That's about it.
Taking your time it takes about an hour a side once you have all the tools out.
For front pads/rotors:
21mm socket for lug nuts
10mm socket for manual hub dial face bolts
12mm socket for manul hub dial nuts and bolt on end of axle
Brass drift for cone washers
Small bladed flat head screwdriver for cone washers
3 lb sledge hammer
54mm socket for wheel bearing nuts
Bigger bladed flat head screwdriver for star washer tab bending
14mm for rotor bolts
Jack
Jack stands
Wheel bearing grease
Lots of paper towels
Impact/air tools
10mm flare wrench for brake lines
C-clamp for pistons in brake caliper
Brake fluid
Vacuum plugs to cap brake lines when removed from caliper to save having to rebleed the whole system
Brake cleaner (the good flammable kind)
Mechanic gloves or Nitrine as this is MESSY
That's about it.
Taking your time it takes about an hour a side once you have all the tools out.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 11-23-2008 at 06:02 AM.
#16
Registered User
Frankly, just replacing the pads without, at least, doing a non-direction rotor turn is just plain silly
Pull the rotors, and get a non-direction resurface done to them. That'll let you check them for straightness, minimum thickness, and remove the glaze from the surface.
Fred
Pull the rotors, and get a non-direction resurface done to them. That'll let you check them for straightness, minimum thickness, and remove the glaze from the surface.
Fred
#17
I can't imagine trying to compress the pistons in the caliper without removing it from the truck. I'm sure it could be done, but the 2 minutes it takes to remove it is well worth it in my opinion...
Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on.
But of course, to each his own around here.
Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on.
But of course, to each his own around here.
I have compressed the pistons in my rigs before, its really quite simple.
However, if the rotors are warped, cracked, glazed, or otherwise damaged, you will have to remove the caliper as the rotor would have to be turned. Typically I recommend turning the rotor, but that was not what the OP asked.
#18
I can't imagine trying to compress the pistons in the caliper without removing it from the truck. I'm sure it could be done, but the 2 minutes it takes to remove it is well worth it in my opinion...
Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on. But of course, to each his own around here.
Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on. But of course, to each his own around here.
#19
Registered User
The only reason to pull the calipers is if the rotors need to be machined/replaced.
Fred