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Old 11-22-2008, 02:43 PM
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Dumb question.

What tools are needed to do front pads?


92 pickup 4x4, v6.




*hides*
Old 11-22-2008, 02:51 PM
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socket set, some c clamps , brake cleaner block of wood

everyone has to start somewhere... im glad to see you take the ball and do your own brakes.. easy and satisfying job!
Old 11-22-2008, 02:54 PM
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What would you need the socket set for? Just remove the pins (which are clipped in), slide the pads out, push the pistons back, pads slide in, and pins go back in.

At most, you may need a small soft hammer to pop the pins loose, and pop them back in.
Old 11-22-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
What would you need the socket set for? Just remove the pins (which are clipped in), slide the pads out, push the pistons back, pads slide in, and pins go back in.

At most, you may need a small soft hammer to pop the pins loose, and pop them back in.
Probably for removing the tires...? The calipers are held on by allen bolts right?
Old 11-22-2008, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bigt
im glad to see you take the ball and do your own brakes.. easy and satisfying job!
Yea I love working on my truck, makes me feel so good knowing how all my stuff is doing, instead of taking some mechanics word for it.

Im doing my brakes monday, along with my pitman arm and idler. Idler is moving around half an inch, so my alignment has been off since i bought the truck last month....

Any tips or hidden things i should be aware of while changing brake pads? Im new to toyotas and I have no idea what to expect...

Last edited by Tubbyfatty; 11-22-2008 at 04:02 PM.
Old 11-22-2008, 04:04 PM
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need a socket set to get the caliper unbolted and wheel off.. o and a jack!

fixing toyotas RULE!
Old 11-22-2008, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bigt
need a socket set to get the caliper unbolted and wheel off.. o and a jack!

fixing toyotas RULE!
So the bolt holding the caliper on is just a normal bolt? Sweet
Old 11-22-2008, 04:13 PM
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on my 22re yeahi think it was 17 or 19 mm holding caliper on..



TAKE THAT CHEV BOW OFF UNLESS ITS GOT A gm engine or something PUKE
Old 11-22-2008, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bigt
on my 22re yeahi think it was 17 or 19 mm holding caliper on..



TAKE THAT CHEV BOW OFF UNLESS ITS GOT A gm engine or something PUKE
hehe, no, so many 4runners around here, i cant tell mine from someone elses, so ill take it off when i get a lift or something.
Old 11-22-2008, 04:32 PM
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thats why i like my surf has all the stick on goodies of a 3rd gen on a second gen and the parking mirror ALWAYS i can spot in parking lots
Old 11-22-2008, 04:43 PM
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They make a really cheap tool for compressing the pistons in the calipers that's worth it's weight in gold. I used to do the c-clamp and block method until one day I felt like splurging the $8 to get the spreader and I can't believe I ever did without it. It's the only special tool you'll need, and it's dirt cheap.

This is what I'm talking about but you should be able to find it in any autoparts store:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Di.../dp/B0002SQU9K
Old 11-22-2008, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bigt
need a socket set to get the caliper unbolted and wheel off.. o and a jack!

fixing toyotas RULE!
Removing the caliper is not necessary on 4x4 Toyota trucks. Hence the pins on the upper part of the caliper.
Old 11-23-2008, 02:46 AM
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I can't imagine trying to compress the pistons in the caliper without removing it from the truck. I'm sure it could be done, but the 2 minutes it takes to remove it is well worth it in my opinion...

Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on.

But of course, to each his own around here.
Old 11-23-2008, 04:36 AM
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yea i also bleed the brakes even though it isnt nessesary//its goodto get fresh fluid in there!
Old 11-23-2008, 06:00 AM
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Problem with just trying to replace the pads as like on mine yesterday, the pads were almost gone so putting in the new much thicker pads the piston calipers were going to have to be compressed. On the truck would have been interesting with a c clamp so I just took the calipers off. Don't forget to remove the top on the MC if you are going to compress them on the truck so the fluid/air has somewhere to go. Problem you might have was what happened to me with 87 yesterday...pads were shot so I was going to replace them, then when I got to putting the pads in I noticed the rotor on the driver's side was grooved like an LP...so I ended up doing a brake job. $100 for new front rotors/pads. Stops much nicer now.

For front pads/rotors:
21mm socket for lug nuts
10mm socket for manual hub dial face bolts
12mm socket for manul hub dial nuts and bolt on end of axle
Brass drift for cone washers
Small bladed flat head screwdriver for cone washers
3 lb sledge hammer
54mm socket for wheel bearing nuts
Bigger bladed flat head screwdriver for star washer tab bending
14mm for rotor bolts
Jack
Jack stands
Wheel bearing grease
Lots of paper towels
Impact/air tools
10mm flare wrench for brake lines
C-clamp for pistons in brake caliper
Brake fluid
Vacuum plugs to cap brake lines when removed from caliper to save having to rebleed the whole system
Brake cleaner (the good flammable kind)
Mechanic gloves or Nitrine as this is MESSY

That's about it.

Taking your time it takes about an hour a side once you have all the tools out.


Last edited by waskillywabbit; 11-23-2008 at 06:02 AM.
Old 11-23-2008, 06:32 AM
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Frankly, just replacing the pads without, at least, doing a non-direction rotor turn is just plain silly

Pull the rotors, and get a non-direction resurface done to them. That'll let you check them for straightness, minimum thickness, and remove the glaze from the surface.





Fred
Old 11-23-2008, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
I can't imagine trying to compress the pistons in the caliper without removing it from the truck. I'm sure it could be done, but the 2 minutes it takes to remove it is well worth it in my opinion...

Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on.

But of course, to each his own around here.
It takes a few mins longer than 2, as you have to bleed and such.

I have compressed the pistons in my rigs before, its really quite simple.

However, if the rotors are warped, cracked, glazed, or otherwise damaged, you will have to remove the caliper as the rotor would have to be turned. Typically I recommend turning the rotor, but that was not what the OP asked.
Old 11-23-2008, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ovrrdrive
I can't imagine trying to compress the pistons in the caliper without removing it from the truck. I'm sure it could be done, but the 2 minutes it takes to remove it is well worth it in my opinion...

Not only that, but part of a brake job is cleaning and lubricating the pins the caliper slides on. But of course, to each his own around here.
Ummm, 4 piston Toyota calipers are not floating. They don't have pins that the calipers slide on. The only reason to pull the calipers is if the rotors need to be machined/replaced. The more bolts you take out to do something, the more wear it puts on those bolts and the greater the chance of them getting stripped/broken each time.
Old 11-23-2008, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by eatmorechicken
Ummm, 4 piston Toyota calipers are not floating. They don't have pins that the calipers slide on.
That's correct.....


The only reason to pull the calipers is if the rotors need to be machined/replaced.
However, that's my point. The rotors should always be machined when replacing the pads. It knocks the glaze off of them (rotors) and you really want to put a non-direction finish on then to help with the break in (of course it seems like hardly anyone has a clue about breaking in new pads/rotors )..




Fred
Old 11-23-2008, 08:49 AM
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I'm doing my rears while im at it...




How the hell do i get those pads off?




Haynes manual may as well be in german.


Quick Reply: Dumb question.



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