Drivers side rear window won't roll up. 94 4runner
#1
Drivers side rear window won't roll up. 94 4runner
Just got a 94 4runner 2 days ago, I've had about 10 yotas, this is the first with anything power on it, so I have no idea what to do. The rear drivers door window won't roll back up, its been a lot weaker then the rest. Today it wouldn't come back up using the master switch and the switch on the door. I got the panel off, I can hear the motor click when I press down on the switch, but nothing when I press up. Do I need to replace the motor or is it something else?
#2
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Yes. You either need to replace the motor, or it's something else.
Are the tracks just too sticky for even a good motor to overcome? I haven't tried it, but I've heard that silicone spray on the rubber tracks can make a very big difference. So that's where I'd start.
Put your multimeter on the motor terminals. When you push the switch, do you get about 12v? Then its the motor. Do you get about 2v? Then it is something between the battery and those terminals, like the switch, the wiring, the connectors ...
What if it's between 2 and 12v? Well, I've never done that specific test, so I don't know what exact voltage drop is tolerable by design. If you get to that point, you might need to take another door panel off (a working window) and see what the voltage is on the motor when working correctly.
Don't have a multimeter? No excuse for that: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html (Unless you want to save $6 by just replacing the motor "and see if it works." If it doesn't, you'll only be out ... $300.00 http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...hString=window)
Are the tracks just too sticky for even a good motor to overcome? I haven't tried it, but I've heard that silicone spray on the rubber tracks can make a very big difference. So that's where I'd start.
Put your multimeter on the motor terminals. When you push the switch, do you get about 12v? Then its the motor. Do you get about 2v? Then it is something between the battery and those terminals, like the switch, the wiring, the connectors ...
What if it's between 2 and 12v? Well, I've never done that specific test, so I don't know what exact voltage drop is tolerable by design. If you get to that point, you might need to take another door panel off (a working window) and see what the voltage is on the motor when working correctly.
Don't have a multimeter? No excuse for that: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html (Unless you want to save $6 by just replacing the motor "and see if it works." If it doesn't, you'll only be out ... $300.00 http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...hString=window)
#3
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Try applying 12VDC direct to the window motor to see if you can get it back up
I spray my window tracks with Silicone spray when I can remember.
It seems to help.
Perhaps the contacts in the door switch are corroded as the Master switch signal also flows through that switch second set of contacts when the switch is in the neutral position.
Motors do wear out but have often did that window get used??
I spray my window tracks with Silicone spray when I can remember.
It seems to help.
Perhaps the contacts in the door switch are corroded as the Master switch signal also flows through that switch second set of contacts when the switch is in the neutral position.
Motors do wear out but have often did that window get used??
#4
Not sure how much he used it, I just got it 2 days ago, gonna get out there and see what I can do with it today. I tried it this morning and none of the windows would go down or do anything now. It does have an old alarm system on it that doesn't work but is hooked up. I could hear a relay clicking with the vehicle off since I got it, its coming from the old alarm, gonna get that off of there as well, thanx for the help!
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