djkron

Hello again all, thanks for all your help before and I hope your wisdom can shine some light on my latest noise as it is a wierd one.

2 days ago, mostly when the vehicle is cold, I will get a squeaking noise coming from the drive shaft, today I jacked the rear end and ran it in reverse and first gear, the sound was there on both gears, and went away as soon as I press the clutch.

I proceeded to grease all the u joints and yolks as per the factory specs and ran it again, this time the noise wasnt as loud at first but after about 30 seconds came back, I know that ujoints can be toast even if there is no play( which i checked). So I havent ruled that out but here is what I mean is wierd


I would say I have a good knowledge of these trucks and after I greased it and the noise came back I put it in gear and went under the truck to isolate the sound, it was coming from a mid point along the driveshaft itself.
I turned the engine off and manually turned the rear wheel, the sound was there in the middle of the shaft, not at either end or colse enough to mistake it for a ujoint. I have never heard a noise like this and as far as I was aware most driveshafts are hollow tubes so how could there be a squeak coming from inside?
Also no loss of performance, just the squeak.


PLEASE HELP!!!!!


Thanks Guys

shaeff

Same happened on my Pickup a few years ago. U joints were nice and tight, with a squeaking sound coming from the rear most joint. Within a day of driving it totally trashed itself. LOL. It was making terrible clunking sounds, and one of the bearing caps fell completely out. This was on the OEM unit @ 150k miles.

wd21_sr5

Pressing the clutch took the pressure off, the u-joints are bad.

874runnersr5

x3 on ujoints, mine were bad and made squeaking sounds

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You can't test a u-joint by trying to wiggle it by hand. Use a pry bar.

Replace the u-joints as that sounds like your problem.

Jay351

U joint(s)!

My rear u-joint went bad. It started to squeak when I let off the throttle or downshifted (wearing on the backside of the joint).

I isolated the joint, removed it (was very dry and rusty) and replaced. Perfect!

874runnersr5

haha i could never track down the sound.. until one day i was like hmm lets take the ujoints off.. and then i found my problem

djkron

Hey everyone thanks for the help, and yah it was a ujoint, the sound i heard was the reverberation point on the drive shaft.

I called local toyota dealer, they wanted 103 each ujoint, went to parts source, 30 bucks a piece.

And of course they are the originals from 91 and my shop vice doesnt have enough muscle to get em out. Called around to the local shops everyone of the SOB want a minimum of 65 bucks to press them. IF I HAD A SHOP PRESS I WOUULD DO IT MYSELF BUT THESE ARSEHOLES WANT WAY TOOO MUCH $$$$


Any other methods you guys know of besides the vice, hammer or press??

xxxtreme22r

if you have a pep boys around and another vehicle to drive, take it to them to have pressed in. shouldn't be that much if everything is out of the truck and handed to them. I did this with my throwout bearing, only cost me $10 to have the old one taken out and pressed new one in.

shaeff

Damn. I did the rear most u-joint on my '94 which was original. Replaced it with a greaseable piece. It was a PITA to get out. No amount of hammering would get it, so I ended up cutting it out with a torch. LOL. (just watch out, hot grease popping/spatter isn't fun!) Had the old out in no time.

wii_tarded

would this also cause a severe vibration at high speeds when you put the clutch in?

wii_tarded

if i have a donor truck, can i just swap the shafts

wii_tarded

what do you mean by "phase it" it is out of a truck with same spec. v6, 5 sp.

wii_tarded

ty, big help, as soon as it quits snowing and drys out, i'm on it