Do I need to mill my timing cover since my block was decked?
12-04-2008, 04:54 PM
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Do I need to mill my timing cover since my block was decked?
Seems like I should,but I never have thought about it until I started putting it together.My shop took .07 off the deck so i guess they need to take that off the cover.Its a 22re by the way.Thanks for insight.
12-05-2008, 01:25 PM
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12-05-2008, 03:26 PM
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Bolt it on and see if it's flush.
personally if its not flush I'd stick it on the belt sander. The top of the timing cover just needs to be flush. It's a not a pressure seal between the head and the cover, just an oil seal. It's just important it doesnt stick higher than the deck, because that could jeopardize the Head Gasket if the head is not on flush.
Having said all that, you may be able to manipulate the cover enough with the slack in the bolt holes to line it up flush. if your not comfortable with the bottom not being flush, that'd be a safer surface to grind down yourself since the pan uses FIPG or RTV vs the gasket used ontop.
just my .02
personally if its not flush I'd stick it on the belt sander. The top of the timing cover just needs to be flush. It's a not a pressure seal between the head and the cover, just an oil seal. It's just important it doesnt stick higher than the deck, because that could jeopardize the Head Gasket if the head is not on flush.
Having said all that, you may be able to manipulate the cover enough with the slack in the bolt holes to line it up flush. if your not comfortable with the bottom not being flush, that'd be a safer surface to grind down yourself since the pan uses FIPG or RTV vs the gasket used ontop.
just my .02
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12-05-2008, 03:47 PM
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Bolt it on and see if it's flush.
personally if its not flush I'd stick it on the belt sander. The top of the timing cover just needs to be flush. It's a not a pressure seal between the head and the cover, just an oil seal. It's just important it doesnt stick higher than the deck, because that could jeopardize the Head Gasket if the head is not on flush.
Having said all that, you may be able to manipulate the cover enough with the slack in the bolt holes to line it up flush. if your not comfortable with the bottom not being flush, that'd be a safer surface to grind down yourself since the pan uses FIPG or RTV vs the gasket used ontop.
just my .02
personally if its not flush I'd stick it on the belt sander. The top of the timing cover just needs to be flush. It's a not a pressure seal between the head and the cover, just an oil seal. It's just important it doesnt stick higher than the deck, because that could jeopardize the Head Gasket if the head is not on flush.
Having said all that, you may be able to manipulate the cover enough with the slack in the bolt holes to line it up flush. if your not comfortable with the bottom not being flush, that'd be a safer surface to grind down yourself since the pan uses FIPG or RTV vs the gasket used ontop.
just my .02
.07" isn't much, but is a lot when dealing with gear mesh and seals.
and if that works, there's .07" protrusion by the timing cover into the oil pan sealing surface area.
12-05-2008, 03:47 PM
#9
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Bolt it on and see if it's flush.
personally if its not flush I'd stick it on the belt sander. The top of the timing cover just needs to be flush. It's a not a pressure seal between the head and the cover, just an oil seal. It's just important it doesnt stick higher than the deck, because that could jeopardize the Head Gasket if the head is not on flush.
Having said all that, you may be able to manipulate the cover enough with the slack in the bolt holes to line it up flush. if your not comfortable with the bottom not being flush, that'd be a safer surface to grind down yourself since the pan uses FIPG or RTV vs the gasket used ontop.
just my .02
personally if its not flush I'd stick it on the belt sander. The top of the timing cover just needs to be flush. It's a not a pressure seal between the head and the cover, just an oil seal. It's just important it doesnt stick higher than the deck, because that could jeopardize the Head Gasket if the head is not on flush.
Having said all that, you may be able to manipulate the cover enough with the slack in the bolt holes to line it up flush. if your not comfortable with the bottom not being flush, that'd be a safer surface to grind down yourself since the pan uses FIPG or RTV vs the gasket used ontop.
just my .02
there are dowels in the block that wont let you, plus as abe said you dont want to use the slack in the bolt holes even if you could!
Last edited by TOYOTA 1; 12-05-2008 at 03:48 PM.
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