Distributor help
01-16-2011, 03:37 PM
#1
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Distributor help
Ok guys i did something stupid i recently purchased a 4runner with a 22re and it does not start, so i pulled the distributor out to test it. I forgot to mark the position of the rotor so now i dont know where to put it when i put the distributor back in. Any way i can figure out the right position of the rotor so i dont f up the firing order? Your help is much appreciated.
01-16-2011, 03:57 PM
#2
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Make sure the front cylinder(#1) is all the way up or TDC by takin out the spark plug and manually cranking the motor over by the crank bolt. With that, you'll have to put the rotor at 12 o'clock and slid the dizzy back in. You'll notice that the rotor is going to go counter clock wise to roughly 11 o'clockish...or pointing at were the #1 cylinder is on the dizzy cap....
Then start it. Get a timing light and set the dizzy to 5* BTDC
Then start it. Get a timing light and set the dizzy to 5* BTDC
01-16-2011, 04:02 PM
#3
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You need to make sure that when the #1 cylinder is at TDC that it is also on the compression stroke. Then you can put the rotor at the #1 cylinder on the cap and go from there.
01-16-2011, 04:19 PM
#7
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Pull the valve cover off and if both valves are fully closed on the #1 cylinder it's on the compression stroke (both rocker arms on the #1 cylinder will be loose and wiggle).
Last edited by merfal; 01-16-2011 at 04:21 PM.
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01-16-2011, 04:22 PM
#8
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If your wrong take dizzy cap off, put the crank back to where your rotor is pointing at #4 instead of #1, then take dizzy out and put it back in where the rotor is pointing at #1.
01-16-2011, 04:53 PM
#11
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No im afraid not, i bought this 4runner for 400 bucks and it didnt run. Its all complete i put new plugs in and i tested the ignition coil it was 13 ohms of resistance. So i put a new ignition coil in and it still doesnt start. The starter is good, when i turn the key you can hear the starter turning but thats it doesnt sound like its getting spark, does not try to fire. Any tips? i have yet to test the distributor but i will do that tomorrow.
Also need to perform a spark test but its kinda hard because my dad works in the day and i work at night so holding the ignition coil wire and turning the key is kinda hard to do right now : )
Also need to perform a spark test but its kinda hard because my dad works in the day and i work at night so holding the ignition coil wire and turning the key is kinda hard to do right now : )
Last edited by 4x4-runner; 01-16-2011 at 04:56 PM.
01-16-2011, 04:54 PM
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in other words if the rocker arms on the #1 cyl are both loose. Or don't pull the valve cover and you have a 50/50 shot at getting it right, if your wrong and you start 180 out you will know.
If your wrong take dizzy cap off, put the crank back to where your rotor is pointing at #4 instead of #1, then take dizzy out and put it back in where the rotor is pointing at #1.
If your wrong take dizzy cap off, put the crank back to where your rotor is pointing at #4 instead of #1, then take dizzy out and put it back in where the rotor is pointing at #1.
.......
Right, and OP, 4 cylinder 4 cycle engine... With a 1, 3, 4, 2 firing order...
Though the physical piston will be at "TDC" it could be at a different process in the 4 cycle process.
And how you tell that is by the brains of the operation... The cam.
If the cam dowel is at 12:00 it's at TDC. #1 is set at it's compression stroke.
If the cam is at 6:00 and the crank is still at 0, it's at B-TDC. #4 is at it's compression stroke, and #1 is at it's exhaust...
And it's because of this, the problem of confusing #1 with #4 happens all the time.
Though the physical piston will be at "TDC" it could be at a different process in the 4 cycle process.
And how you tell that is by the brains of the operation... The cam.
If the cam dowel is at 12:00 it's at TDC. #1 is set at it's compression stroke.
If the cam is at 6:00 and the crank is still at 0, it's at B-TDC. #4 is at it's compression stroke, and #1 is at it's exhaust...
And it's because of this, the problem of confusing #1 with #4 happens all the time.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 01-16-2011 at 05:24 PM.
01-16-2011, 04:57 PM
#13
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You said you were getting a spark so I would start troubleshooting fuel(as long as you are certain the timing isn't way off). Are you getting fuel to the fuel rail?
Last edited by merfal; 01-16-2011 at 04:59 PM.
01-16-2011, 05:03 PM
#14
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firing order is Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 not 1 2 3 4 is it not? if the crank notch is at TDC and the dizzy is on #4 180 out then #1 is on it's TDC compression stroke.
01-16-2011, 05:10 PM
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Havent checked that yet, i am getting power to the starter but when i turn the key i dont hear that tick tick tick sound that toyotas have when you first start them.
01-16-2011, 05:13 PM
#16
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If the temp sensor (cold start injector timing switch) is bad, which seems to be fairly common, the cold start injector may not be firing causing a hard starting condition. That was the case when I bought my truck; the previous owner had no idea why it wouldn't start and it ended up being a temp sensor. Good news is that you can test those with a voltmeter so you're not just throwing parts at your truck which is always a bad idea.
Last edited by merfal; 01-16-2011 at 05:15 PM.
01-16-2011, 05:27 PM
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yeah, you're right...
I thought he removed his dist. and placed it back in with no reference...
I guess I didn't read that...
From scratch is where I'm saying start from.
1, Take it out
2, Rotate engine till crank at TDC and cam at 12:00
3, Then replace dist. with the button touching #1 on the dist. cap
I thought he removed his dist. and placed it back in with no reference...
I guess I didn't read that...
From scratch is where I'm saying start from.
1, Take it out
2, Rotate engine till crank at TDC and cam at 12:00
3, Then replace dist. with the button touching #1 on the dist. cap
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 01-16-2011 at 05:30 PM.
01-16-2011, 05:29 PM
#19
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You don't have to remove it but if you are looking at a sensor with one tab you are looking at the wrong sensor. There are two sensors together at the front of the manifold by the thermostat housing and one of those is the CSI switch. It has two prongs and you only have to connect the voltmeter to the two prongs and ensure you are getting the correct reading.
01-16-2011, 05:31 PM
#20
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