distributor
#1
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distributor
Okay, 91 4runner V6 3VZE broke down. Thought to be alternator at first so we pulled and replaced. While pulling it we pulled out the distributor to wedge it out. Well, alternator wasnt it and then noticed the fan pulley wasn't spinning so we replaced it and now thats working. Engine wont turn over now. Does anyone know how to redo the distributor. We think that it might of turned while it was out. thanks in advance!
I will be getting around to posting picks of swithing out that pulley.
I will be getting around to posting picks of swithing out that pulley.
#2
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well sorry to say the dist is pretty reliable piece of equip if you do NOT HAVE SPARK
CHECK / REPLACE THE IGNITOR ....... the coil ??? check all connections are they clean ??? wiring and tracing takes mucho time how many miles? did it break down while driving ? sounds like a ignitor to me
CHECK / REPLACE THE IGNITOR ....... the coil ??? check all connections are they clean ??? wiring and tracing takes mucho time how many miles? did it break down while driving ? sounds like a ignitor to me
#3
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As far as getting it back in time. Set your crank mark, which is #1 piston at top dead center, and pull your distributor cap and install the distributor pointing at #1 wire on the cap. if it runs like crap or wont run pull it and turn the rotor 180 degrees.Now what is the problem for having pulled the altenator?
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Ill see if my buddy understands what you guys are saying cuz I can just about only replace parts.
We switched the alternator because we thought it was spinning (froze up) but it ended up being the "fake water pump pulley"
We switched the alternator because we thought it was spinning (froze up) but it ended up being the "fake water pump pulley"
#7
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Here is a picture of the rotor in the correct position in the distributor when the #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51273447 The distributor housing has a mark (small, raised line cast into the aluminum) on top where it mates with the mounting hole. The mount also has a mark. Line these two marks up as an initial installation position until adjusting with a timing light. With the distributor installed and the rotor in the position shown in the photo, tighten the dist. bolt.
If the rotor will not line up as shown, but rather can only line up a quarter inch or so to the left or right but not as shown, then the cam is probably 180 deg out. Remove the distributor. Rotate the engine one complete revolution (which rotates the cam 1/2 turn) and line up the "0" mark again on the crank pulley. Reinstall the distributor and you should be able to get the rotor in the position shown. I have experience trying to start the engine 180 deg out and it doesn't work!
Take care,
Bugs
If the rotor will not line up as shown, but rather can only line up a quarter inch or so to the left or right but not as shown, then the cam is probably 180 deg out. Remove the distributor. Rotate the engine one complete revolution (which rotates the cam 1/2 turn) and line up the "0" mark again on the crank pulley. Reinstall the distributor and you should be able to get the rotor in the position shown. I have experience trying to start the engine 180 deg out and it doesn't work!
Take care,
Bugs
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Thanks for all the help guys. I got it running great again! In the past two days+ I have installed a new alternator, power steering pump, "fake" water pump pulley bracket, spark pulgs and wires, re-timed the distributor, replaced front brakes, and replaced battery terminals.
I dont have pics of most of this but I do of a few things so Ill post the pics hopefully soon.
Thanks to all of you!
Next up is, rear window, drum brakes, valve gasket, head gasket, timing belt, and water pump.
I dont have pics of most of this but I do of a few things so Ill post the pics hopefully soon.
Thanks to all of you!
Next up is, rear window, drum brakes, valve gasket, head gasket, timing belt, and water pump.
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