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Did I do this ohms test correctly on my coil?

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Old 07-23-2009, 04:33 PM
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Did I do this ohms test correctly on my coil?

I had enough time today after work to tinker on the 4runner(95 3vze auto)I think I have a bad coil but I'm a little confused on the proper settings for the DMM...I keep getting different readings... so I checked the resistance on the coil and here are my findings.I would like to know if I did this correctly?,,,before I purchase one....one more thing my igniter gets hot to the touch can't hold my hand on it too long
Pic #1...meter set on ohms 200 ohms with continuity beep checking the Primary Resistance(Haynes list 1993 0n 4cyl & V6 is between 0.36 to 0.55 ohms.....I think that the Primary Resistance is not to specs

Pic #3 checking the Secondary Resistance (Haynes list Secondary Resistance @ 9.0 to 15.4 k) so I think the secondary is within specs

I also felt a trickle of voltage from the VAFM while the engine was running. I was checking my plug wires on the drivers side and had my forearm just barley above the VAFM, and I was getting a sting(not much but enough to feel like a pin stick). I know that isn't normal why would that be doing that?? this pic is me just showing how I got zapped and it keeps zapping me until I lift my arm up off the VAFM housing.I couldn't feel the trickle with my finger but could with my fore arm what gives?

Last edited by buckz6319; 07-24-2009 at 02:31 AM.
Old 07-24-2009, 02:36 AM
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I haven't used a DMM in a long time, and have lost my directions to the DMM .I just needed a quick answer last night
I will take it with me to work this morning and ask a engineer to show me again, on the proper way to use this meter again with checking ogms
Old 07-24-2009, 06:33 AM
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Both readings are good. When you set your meter at 200ohm it is good for reading anything under that. So you are showing .5 ohms which is in spec and your secondary is also good.

The problem is that this is not a good test of the coils. It will show that there is no damage to the circuit within the coil but coils usually do not brake. If they do they don't work at all. A coil will show problems when it discharges (makes a spark). It is hard to test a coil properly without the right equipment.

Back to the problem.....What is the problem? Does the engine misfire? Run rough?

By the way, very nice engine bay. Looks nice and clean.
Old 07-24-2009, 08:12 AM
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Flash319...thanks for the reply on my testing of the ignition coil that saved me money...and thx for the compliment on my engine bay I worked hard to get it that clean.
now you asked about my problem but I have had many problems with this runner sense I purchased it last summer.I have a link you you to visit,a thread I added just last week...to my many threads about my on goning issue https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ration-186675/
I hope this will give you some insite on what I'm trouble shooting
any help would be appreciated
Thanks Dwayne

Last edited by buckz6319; 07-24-2009 at 08:14 AM.
Old 07-24-2009, 08:17 AM
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any comments on why I get a tickle shock from the VAFM?...with engine running
Old 07-24-2009, 08:52 AM
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No offense but I think you are being a little bit anal for a 15 year old truck. I don't know 3slows so I can't really comment on what what a "normal" vibration is. (this is in regards to your other post). The injection, combustion and control of these engines as well as there design is far from perfect. That is why they are call "production vehicles".

I can understand why you are trying to eliminate vibration because I hate things like that. They bug the hell out of me. Also a V6 engine, by design, is not balanced like an inline 4 or inline 6. Go start up a brand new 4runner at a dealer and see how much the engine rocks at warm idle.

Now things that I have found that cause vibration. Transfercase crossmember mount will cause rolling vibration if it has starting to pull apart. And like others have said torque converter and related trans bearings. As far as engine you would have to pull all the injectors and get them cleaned and also make sure all ignition components are new (coil, wires, plugs....). YOur VFAM may also be a little slow reacting since it is old and thus causing a poor idle. You can try sticking your hand up inside it while the engine is running and moving the flapper a bit and see if your idle vibration gets better. If it does then you are dealing with a fuel related problem.

I also know that the Ignitor case gets grounded to the body and can cause problems. Pull the ignitor off and clean the mounting points. I have seen this cause a no-start condition. This may also cause you to get a shock from touching something....maybe.
Old 07-24-2009, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Flash319
No offense but I think you are being a little bit anal for a 15 year old truck. I don't know 3slows so I can't really comment on what what a "normal" vibration is. (this is in regards to your other post). The injection, combustion and control of these engines as well as there design is far from perfect. That is why they are call "production vehicles".

I can understand why you are trying to eliminate vibration because I hate things like that. They bug the hell out of me. Also a V6 engine, by design, is not balanced like an inline 4 or inline 6. Go start up a brand new 4runner at a dealer and see how much the engine rocks at warm idle.

Now things that I have found that cause vibration. Transfercase crossmember mount will cause rolling vibration if it has starting to pull apart. And like others have said torque converter and related trans bearings. As far as engine you would have to pull all the injectors and get them cleaned and also make sure all ignition components are new (coil, wires, plugs....). YOur VFAM may also be a little slow reacting since it is old and thus causing a poor idle. You can try sticking your hand up inside it while the engine is running and moving the flapper a bit and see if your idle vibration gets better. If it does then you are dealing with a fuel related problem.

I also know that the Ignitor case gets grounded to the body and can cause problems. Pull the ignitor off and clean the mounting points. I have seen this cause a no-start condition. This may also cause you to get a shock from touching something....maybe.
No offense taken....but I will make this comment....I know the 4runner is 15 yrs old and it's bound to have problems ,I realize that but this is different than your "normal vibration or vibrations".
I have had this thing in 5 shops and no one can pinpoint where it's coming from, and they all agree that it is "vary bad, possible one of the worse that they have had to deal with" quote
so put your self in my shoes.I can either continue my trouble shooting or just sit on my butt and do nothing...so I choose to take it upon my self and with the advice of others to continue to search for the cause and maybe I'll get lucky?..and I wii check out some of the items you list in the post
thanks again for your input I do value it
Dwayne

Last edited by buckz6319; 07-24-2009 at 12:51 PM.
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