deejaysterling

Hi all at Yota Tech! I am really loving this website, cheers to the owners and creators! Also a big shout out to all you users that put in all that wonderfull data for all of us to use.

I have a 1987 4runner Sr5 22re engine that just recently (3 months ago) started spewing giant clouds of white smoke when i first started it her up.
I came online and searched around, ended up here, so i became a member in hopes of some good advice and direction as to what to do when i get stuck.

I have little, experience in this field, i have replaced GAskets b4, and i am pretty handy with a wrench, and loaded with patients and beer.


SO..... i'm gonna post some pics, I have already started the big job, been into it about 2 months now on the weekends. I have removed the exhaust mani, removed upper intake and lower intake, (btw, that dam allen key head bolt took me about a week to get out) , removed the head!

Now here is where i have a question? what should the coolant holes on the bottom of the head look like, i mean should they be identical to the coolant holes on the piston block? I will post some pictures...

any feedback would be helpfull....

deejaysterling

so the first picture is the block and the coolant holes are nicely formed, perfect holes , no imperfections, Now the picture on the right (crappy pic because i can't upload more thazn 48kb!) is a pic of the head upside down on a milk crate so i could clean it. You can barely make it out, but the coolant holes there are very rough and NOT perfect.

So, shouldn't those holes when they line-up with new gasket in place, shouldn't they be identical? I mean won't it just leak again as soon as i fire it up?

Wondering if the new gasket will bridge the gap and keep the coolant in those holes.
Or am i screwed, and should starty looking into a new head?
is it possible to repair, or weld those holes back to the matching size on the piston head?

i'm sort of stuck right now.....

i'm gonna tryiin find some better close up pics for ya

deejaysterling

UPDATE **** i have now sent out the Head to be Pressure tested and got it back only to pay 80 bux to find out it's cracked in two spots. SO i ordered a new one coming from Quebec, 403 bux CAN. not bad....brand spanking new! should be here soon.

deejaysterling

so i got a new head, looks great! nice and shiny! put all the studs in and used loc tite on the ones which were permanent on my old head...i pretty much prep'd the new head the same way my old head was taken out. Turns out one of my valves was stuck shut and i was only running on 3 cylinders for quite some time. lol wow...so a new head and valves and i'll be super happy if i can get it all running again.

pictures coming soon...

deejaysterling

So i got the new Head and have installed it on the block, all went well.
****Tip***for anyone doing this job themselves for the first time....
I would reccommend the 3M scuff/cleaning ball. It was 22 bux for this drill bit type thing that had a scuff ball on the tip and it made it super easy to clean the pistons. Also thank god for Carb Cleaner, works great.
After removing the old head the pistons were completely black. It took me 3 weekends to get everything clean, and i still could've cleaned more.

HAppy Holidays to all!!

deejaysterling

*********Update....**************

I have put everything back together now...and she won't fire up....starter motor keeps cranking it but it will not start up!

So , far, i tried screwdriver trick to see if thre is spark...YES i have spark... The EFI main relay clicks when i turn ignition to ON(good and proper there) I tested the resistance between terminals on the Start Injector Time Switch and it is in the acceptable ohm range.
So i tried testing the cold start injector and the resistance is also in the acceptable range.
Then i tried the coolant temperature sensor (thermo time switch) and i got nothing, no reading. So i think i may have a bad thermo time switch. But would that cause it to not start? I thought it would still start, with a faulty thermo switch but could overheat. (but none the less should still start?)

what else am i missing? i am going to check the resistance of the Throttle postion sensor and i want to find out wether or not my fuel sending unit is working? anyone know how to do that test?

so i guess i should check fuel sending system?
anyone know ho to do this on a 87 22rec?

i have a voltimeter, i'm gonna check all the connectors that the haynes manual tells me to.

deejaysterling

So im stuck now! i tested the fuel pump and it's humming away like a champ!
ran the EFI test - only 1 blink - all systems good.
tested spark plugs...good there
checked all fuel lines - satisfactory (barely, i'm gonna need new pump bracket real real soon)
tested cold start injector - it's within specified ohm range
tested Thermo Switch (coolant temp) - NO READING ! wtf --
tested EFI click sound - heard it!
checked all fuses with voltimeter - OK!
tested cold start time injector -- within specified ohm range
tested AFM - all readings were in ohm range
tested Throttle POstion Sensor - I got 1 reading not accurate of the FSM specs. the IDL - E2 port suppose to read infinite, while .85 feeler gauge is in between throttle lever and stop. I got a 85 ohm reading?! i think that is wrong.

If my thermo switch is ˟˟˟˟'d , would it not start ? it should still start, no?
Thermo switch is like 150 bux and i don't know if that will fix it or if i'm on the right track..? ;(
Soo...imma kinda stuck...any ideas people?

bummed out and I need a break......

deejaysterling

MY Progress has led me to try some new tests.....Most of my sensors checked out ok so i've been told to start over again. Start witht the compression test

SO, went out and bought myself A comp tester at the local CAN-Tire and removed all plugs and disabled the ignition and pulled the EFI relay to disable fuel.

With the pedal to the floor, 4-5 cranks each test.
1st cylinder: 30 psi
2nd Cylinder: NOTHING
3rd " : Nothing
4th " : 91 psi


So i'm not getting any compression on my middle two cylinders.
I did not try the "wet" test on the cylinders because no compression is usually more than just a worn piston ring.
I just replaced my headgasket to spec. I used only Toyota certified pARts,
so it cannot be my new headhasket. I torqued head gasket to spec. 58 lbs
I even went a little more, like almost 60lbs of torque. I read that the 22re was revised to torque to 65lbs but i'm pretty confident my 60lbs torque was sufficient.

I hear I can get "leak down" test performed to check the bottom end
of the engine. Going to look into that soon.

northeaster79

I would try the wet test before going any further.
The engine ran before you tor it apart to change the head gasket.Retrace your steps and what was done wrong.

deejaysterling

************Update**************

After studying the resultys of my compression test, i realized my valves must be staying open. The old head i took off had been machined down, looked like 3 or 4 times already.
So the head being shaved down, mean my valves were adjusted lower, right.
So when i bought a new head and put it on, being a taller head now because it's new to spec, i'm thinking i should've raised the valves a bit to compensate for the thickness of the new head.

So, i'm gonna try my hand at adjusting my valves. It makes sense to me.
This weekend i'll give it a go. Any tips on how to adjust valves easliy?

northeaster79

when they machine the sealing surface of the head that doesn't mean they changed the seat of the valves.They may need to be adjusted,its always a good idea to adjust your valves after doing any kind of in depth engine work such as head removal anyhow.I would also make sure your try a wet compression test.specially considering the engine hasn't run since you took it apart.
Do you have your air intake hooked back up to your breather box?
Is your timming set?
I know this sounds dumb,specially comming from a mechanic,but when I did the head gasket on my 22re I cranked it many times wondering why it wouldn't start,alot of head scratching lead me to notice I forgot to plug my coil back in.

deejaysterling

hey thanks for the advice northeaster79! i will go try the wet comp test this weekend, but i'm almost certain that the readings will fail because my valves are staying open on the intake stroke. SO, i am reading how to adjust valves, looks pretty straight forward.

My air intake is all hooked up correctly, my distributor is on in the right spot.(95% sure)
If we get NO compression, it has to be two things, valves adjustment or blown headgasket.
Since i just replaced the head and head gasket i'm 100 percent certain it's not the gasket or head, so it must be my valves. Even with worn piston rings, i should get at least some compression, the fact that there is absolutly no compression tells me there is bigger problem then the timing. Correct me if i'm wrong, but first u need compression(air), then u need fuel, then u need spark. If the first part of the combustion triangle fails then so will the next two steps.

I watched a video on valve adjusment on youtube, tell me your opinion of this, he says the magic number is 9, and no matter where you are on any stroke, whichever valve is down you can find which valves to adjust. Watch the video and tell me if this trick works for 22re engines?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG_rL...eature=channel

deejaysterling

here is some pics of the old head vs the new head

deejaysterling

some pics of the new head , and after i torqued it down.. 60 lbs/ft

so shiny , flash was bad idea...

northeaster79

Did you get yor valves adjusted yet?

deejaysterling

went out today, removed the rocker cover and pulled the EFI relay, then disabled the spark system. soon realized that finding TDC by myself is hard. so gonna get some help tomorrow to get it to TDC on compression stroke.

I wAS very tempeted to go get a remote starter so i didn't need help to get to TDC. But i can wait for help.

on, second thought, i think it is easier to remove the fan shroud and put ratchet in the main pully/crankshaft and rotate the engine by hand to find TDC (then i don't need a helper)

deejaysterling

*********update**********

after adjusting my valves to .011 and .008
did another compression test
1st - 97 short test 120 long test
2nd - 105 psi 117 psi
3d - 122 psi 140psi
4th - 90 psi 94 psi

...much better on my middle two cylinders. before i had nothing and now it's over 100psi, still a little concerned about the compression level overall. The specs call for minimum 128 psi.
- starting real cold outside
- when i turn the ignition i wait 10 sec for fuel, then start......it cranks better now that i adjusted valves, sounds like it wants to fire, but yet i still i can't get her purrrr'in.

I only let it crank for about 8-10 seconds b4 i started to smell something burning. COuld have been exhaust as my rear window and side windows are down, and the access panel to the fuel tank is off right now.

I'm gonna give the battery a fresh charge and heat up the garage b4 i start it tomooroow. Was thinking of using some liquid fire starting fluid.

If it still no start, thinking maybe distributor may be off a tooth?...hmmm

deejaysterling

Today is a milestone for me, as the engine i have been working on for nearly 5 months started today!

After not getting it to turn over I tried many things...in the end I decided to play with distrubutor by loose'ing the mount bolt and turn the whole thing up, i changed the timimg and she fires up real rough and smokey. I let it run for like 10 mins and it clears up a bit but still stalls out as soon as i let up off the pedal.

I then got some help and started it again...started cleaner this time on first or second crank but still doesn't sound like it's quite right. I drove it down the driveway and back into the garage (uphill) and it had a hard time getting up and in the garage(small bump) . I tried adjusting the throttle idle while running, not much changed, and i tried turning the screw all the way and it would still die out.

So , i'm thinking i'm off a tooth on the distributor, and maybe i'll have a go at that tomorrow. It's -14 C here and my fingers are numb.

deejaysterling

SUCCESS!! i went out on the weekend and adjusted my distributor to move it it one tooth forward.

Started it up, and BAM! perfect! sounding nice! brand new head, and i can feel the power in 2nd gear, (my old head had a stuck valve and i was operating only on 7 valves)

After taking her around the block i realized my ebrake is seized and i have a bit of valve lash noise coming from my rockers. So i will re-adjust valves when i get a chance....Loud valve lash is normal right?
i mean it's not terribly loud that you can hear it outside the truck, but lift the hood and u can hear it.

I'm going to go get some new oil, coolant flush and oil filter. Give her a little tune up and i'm back in buisness!

I must take a second to thank all the people who posted their stuff on here, i would have been in a different boat and it would've cost me alot more time and money if it wasn't for the knowledgeable users on here.
SO a BIG ...THANKS to all you yotatech users.

...and now...what am i going to do on my weekend afternoons now!!?
maybe i'll start rebuilding the back end, i really would like to put a lift kit on her. My leaf springs are flat and she has the saggy ass syndrome.

northeaster79

Congrats on getting it going,glad to hear it has finally fired up for you.When you set your valves make sure you run the engine long enough first to get it to operating temperature,makes your valve sets more accurate.