saltrig

Hey guys,

Bittersweet. I had my HG's done on recall and the truck is running well but I have a couple bugs to work out.

1) Cold start problem. Has trouble catching first start of morning.

2) Runs way cold. Needle barely ticks over cold mark when truck is fully warm.

There's no trouble-shooting for a cool engine but its a little odd. I think my thermostat is working because after the truck idles for a while I can see coolant rising into my radiator. I had some air in my heater core (gurgling) but I think that's working its way out.

I'm wondering if this could all be related to one thing: a bad water temp sensor. Or maybe my start injector time switch and water temp sensor were mixed up in put-back. Is this possible? Does anything obvious jump out to anyone? I don't want to go through the pain of heading back to the dealer.

Thanks

CJM

#1 sounds like the cold start injector is bad.
#2 means the heater core maybe clogged..

saltrig

Thanks CJM

The cold start problem has gone away, so it's not the injector. It could be weather related (it's gotten warmer here) but that'd probably mean something else besides the injector itself.

But the truck ran colder than ever, didn't even make it off the cold mark. Took awhile to blow semi-hot air too. I half think they forget to put my thermostat back in when they reassembled my engine. Do these thermos ever get "stuck" full open. That would cause these symptoms wouldn't it?

fishon1213

I have never had a toyota v6, but I have had thermostats stick fully open in a few other motors.

Ganoid

If I remember correctly one of the great benefits of the Factory OE style thermostats is that when they do fail they will always fail in the open position so as not to overheat your vehicle (something about an extra spring). If it was a heater core your temp gauge would read correct but you would have no heat. Sounds to me like they forgot to put the thermostat in or it has failed in the open position (this is a good thing). If it was a temp sensor you would get great heat and good running but they gauge would read screwy. I would replace the thermostat with another OE thermostat from the dealer ($12).

saltrig

Anything wrong with running this cool? Upon closer inspection I'm getting adequate heat and it's hot within 5 min of startup. There's coolant pressure. Radiator gets hot but engine stays cool. Isn't this how it's supposed to work in a perfect world. Maybe that fancy red Toyota coolant and HG job turned things to the cool side.

There is something you should now. I swapped the instrument cluster a year or so ago. I used a 4runner's of the same year. I don't think this would matter but it might.

And Ganoid what do mean by a screwy gage? Because the thermistor in the sensor could just get stuck at a certain temp couldn't it. Anyway, now that cold start issue is gone, the truck runs great.

Thanks for the help guys. I might call the dealer and see if they I have my old thermostat lying around.

gilbert46

This is how my 3vze acted with the tstat stuck open. The radiator is blowing off ALL the heat from the engine. This is not good, the engine will continue dumping fuel into it to get warmed up, called open loop. I bought my truck for SUPER cheap because it got 8mpg and was all clogged up running like this.

mr toytech

sounds to me like an air pocket. or they over used the fipg[silicone] on the rear sensor housing blocking the coolant from the sensors.

PCE91V64x4

My temp gauge stays well under half way but the engine definately gets hot. When I ran the defroster during some snow/ice storms I rolled the windows down because I was roasting. I figure it is something to do with the gauge or sensor.

saltrig

Crap. I was wondering why they used FIPG when they didn't fix my oil pan. Anyway to clear that up? Guess I should take this pig back to them to get it right.

My gauge barely moves off the white C bar.

And my gas mileage is better than ever.

saltrig

Ok guys--update.

Dealer charged me $200. Replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. But the problem persists. Dealer told me to drive it for a while. Yeah, cause that always works so well.
Anyway so I think it's either my coolant temp sensor--like I originally thought--or some goober obstructing my sensor housing. I'm thinking of adapting a fitting to screw into the coolant temp hole and hooking it to my garden hose. I'll take out my thermostat and run the hose full blast. In the mean time I'll ohm the sensor in some hot water to make sure its working.

Will this flush technique work? Anyone have a better idea?

Thanks