jpmountainboy

so im about to double check my tps adjustment according to fsm and im noticing that the Dash Pot hits the throttle valve just a tad before the throttle would rest on the throttle adjust/stop screw. since I need to use gauges on the throttle screw to adjust the tps it seems like i should back the DP screw off until it only touches, and let the throttle rest on the throttle stop screw...or should I leave the DP screw and screw in the throttle screw a hair to meet the throttle..seems like the DP should be set first. The engine is cold (3.0 3vze) so I cant really check the DP as per the FSM (Running/Hot), nor would I want to if the base setting at cold is off.

anyone?

87-4-running

I would be interested to know this myself as I am about to do the same thing. Also would anyone know if there is a way to adjust the tps without having to remove the throttle body. Where's Abe when you need him?

abecedarian

It's normal for the throttle to contact the dashpot when the throttle is released. it's purpose is to slow the throttle down and not let it snap shut, which could cause a backfire. You need the engine warm in order to adjust the dashpot due to changes in idle speed and intake vacuum which will affect the operation of the dashpot.
The dashpot will not affect the tps adjustments at all, unless the dashpot (or throttle opener if equipped) is stuck fully extended and holding the throttle plate open- but then you would have too much clearance between the throttle stop and the adjuster under the throttle body for your feeler gauge to be usable.

jpmountainboy

ya it seems like maybe my DP is extended too far and making the feeler gauge setting useless on the throttle stop when adjusting the tps. I backed off the DP screw a tad and it seemed like it let the idle back down from 1050 back down to 950 where it should, so maybe it was off. I will test the DP now that the engine is warm.

My reasoning is that the throttle should be able to close all the way, and the DP should only kick in after that base setting. I set them so the DP and Throttle stop will set equal on the throttle fully closed.

However, I have reason to believe that my DP may be not so happy after I dipped it in solution when cleaning parts (tps was bad), so I recomend anyone else to not fiddle with their factory settings on the DP unless they are sure...dont go off my lead as Im pretty new at this.

here is a link to the fsm for 22re and 3vz, look under "EFI throttle body" for help on DP & TPS settings and adj. but it doesnt tell you which screw to back off, so good luck

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine.html

thook

The throttle lever should hit the DP first......then, slowly release to allow the lever to rest on the stop screw. If the DP is not allowing the lever to rest on the stop screw at all, then there's reason to mess with the DP. Most likely, it is sticking, though. You shouldn't ever have to mess with the adjustments on either the DP or the stop screw, but particularly the stop screw. I say that because it's rare that factory settings, in this case, ever go off. It's more likely the DP has gotten old and brittle (or screwed up with solvent...) or the throttle cable or throttle linkage is sticking somehow.

87-4-running....what motor are you working on? On the 3.0, you don't have to remove the TB to get to the TPS. You just need a short phillips head that will squeeze in between the TPS set screws and the heater hoses and wiring jumble. If the 22re, there's no way around pulling the TB unless you remove the thermostat housing and various vac lines and hoses in the way.
Unless! You get some allan screws to replace the factory screws and are then able to squeeze in with a small allan wrench. 4crawler covers doing this in his cheaptricks for TPS adjustment.

abecedarian

got mine off the 22re with this for $2.99: http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,offset%2...allResults.htm
90 degree / offset phillips screwdriver.
also, it's been reported that a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" socket and phillips bit from a ratcheting, interchangable tip screwdriver will work.

thook

Oooo....swank, swank! I'll have to get by there tomorrow and see if the local zone has one. Thank you, Kirk.

BTW, I have tried the last thing you suggested. Maybe it was just the set on hand, but there wasn't enough room between the thermo housing and TPS to get on the screws squarely to wrench it. In other words, once screws start coming out one needs room to clear them.

abecedarian

I do my best to not have to replace gaskets and fluid whenever possible.
The clearance would be an issue with the ratchet. You might be able to break the screw loose with the ratchet then remove the ratchet and spin the socket with the bit with your fingers.
But this might help: http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wr....jsp?part=9537

thook

That's pretty neat, too. But, I'll probably just wind up getting the $3 jobber. Can't see myself having a whole lot of uses for the gearwrench type set. Plus, I'm sure it costs more.

/me<<<<cheap!

jpmountainboy

dude, get and allen head replacement and a 3mm allen for those little puppies, youll be stoked you did after you dont strip those phillips heads.

thook

Got any idea what the pitch and diameter of said screws are? I am NOT going to pull the TB or anything else off to match them up. I could buy the $3 auto zone gadget, then pull the screws, then match up, but...uh....that's stupid. I've bought the gadget already......