Cylinder scoring needs to be fixed...or not?
#1
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Cylinder scoring needs to be fixed...or not?
I have an 88 4runner 3.0 V6. I'm in the middle of changing my head gasket and I noticed that one of my cylinders has a little scoring in it. I attached a picture. The scoring is not very deep and it's really smooth. I think that the guy that owned it before me may have seen the scoring and just replaced the rings rather than boring the block. Like I said it is really smooth and the engine ran fine before I started changing the HG. I really don't want to pull the engine and bore the block. Is that a big deal? This truck is for camping an offroading. I don't drive it everyday. I don't know much about these engines, so I wanted to get some input. I assume that cylinder would not have very good compression, but other than that, do you think it could be a huge problem if I just slap it back together and drive it? I got a valve job on the heads and replaced a couple of other things during my HG replacement, so it should run pretty good other than this scoring. I don't really have the money to do any engine work right now.
Last edited by Challenga; 07-30-2010 at 03:33 PM.
#3
Ouch!!!!
That's pretty well as bad as it gets.
TRUST ME!!!
I just had to put new pistons & rings in my engine(88 3vze), and also did the honing job myself. Yours there looks as bad as the worst cylinder on mine if not worse!
Definetely hone and re-ring/re-piston time. If the pistons themselves are scored too, WHICH THEY PROBABLY WILL BE, you should scrap them. And buy a piston & ring kit like I did. That + a cylinder hone = not very expensive. You may be wishing you did if you don't. Might be you'll end up kicking yourself when you've got a cracked piston like I did! And then you'll have to do alot of what your doing now over again PLUS some! You'll be suprised how much honing it'll take to remove scoring that bad. It's like having a brand new engine though, power wise, when you get it running. WAY WORTH IT!!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/3vze-cracked-6-piston-w-pic-190796/
That's pretty well as bad as it gets.
TRUST ME!!!
I just had to put new pistons & rings in my engine(88 3vze), and also did the honing job myself. Yours there looks as bad as the worst cylinder on mine if not worse!
Definetely hone and re-ring/re-piston time. If the pistons themselves are scored too, WHICH THEY PROBABLY WILL BE, you should scrap them. And buy a piston & ring kit like I did. That + a cylinder hone = not very expensive. You may be wishing you did if you don't. Might be you'll end up kicking yourself when you've got a cracked piston like I did! And then you'll have to do alot of what your doing now over again PLUS some! You'll be suprised how much honing it'll take to remove scoring that bad. It's like having a brand new engine though, power wise, when you get it running. WAY WORTH IT!!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/3vze-cracked-6-piston-w-pic-190796/
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-30-2010 at 05:33 PM.
#5
BTW,
A rigid hone costs a bit more than a deglazing hone. A rigid hone might just do the trick though. You can easily take off .0025"-.0030" with one and straighten the bores out real good.
The cheapest one I could find is $116.17.
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...le&kw=LIS15000
Rigid hone.
\
Deglazing hone.
Good Luck!
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-30-2010 at 08:40 PM.
#6
Registered User
yeah but, a machine shop boring is probably cheaper than rebuilding the motor a second time And I wouldn't try to bore the motor by hand. Unless you had major experience with doing it. A good machine shop shouldn't cost more than maybe $40 per hole at most. Mine only charged me $30 per and is highly respected throughout the racing community here.
keep in mine although I can't tell from that single cyl photo, but its also not only the scoring you should be worried about, but also the ridge on the rim of the cylinders as well. This is one reason why I decided to shave the block on mine as I did not want to bore more than 30 over on mine. This allowed me to take most of the ridge out on the top of the cyl walls without have to bore to 40 over.
keep in mine although I can't tell from that single cyl photo, but its also not only the scoring you should be worried about, but also the ridge on the rim of the cylinders as well. This is one reason why I decided to shave the block on mine as I did not want to bore more than 30 over on mine. This allowed me to take most of the ridge out on the top of the cyl walls without have to bore to 40 over.
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