Ed in Maine

Here's the scoop, inner boot on pass side is torn and slug goop everywhere. Bird hunting trip 5hrs north of here coming in two weeks. Gravel roads, some mud but likely no 4wd needed, avg speed <45mph.

Napa has the boot for $15 and I do have some time to spare this weekend, but I do not have both days to spend drilling out snapped off axle carrier bolts. This thing is rusty and never been wheeled or apart. No sounds or issues, just a torn boot.

Why the post? Because I have a axle and looking at the various kits for a swap this winter. Can't wait, but I have to! Should I duck tape the boot and run it or are these CVs sensitive to dust, etc.

Ed

whorider

If it was me I would run it as is, since your going to solid axle it anyway.

Lumpy

Well, I'd at least do the boot...I'm assuming you have the ADD so the front end is always turning. Tape will probably not hold.

Ed in Maine

Thanks who', that is what I was leaning towards. I spent all last night on plugs (yes all 6!) wires, belts, etc. Frustrating part was I snapped the bolt inside lower alternator mount. Remove alternator, drill out, tap 1/4-20 (3/8 tap was busted...) and replace. Hell of a time consuming way to change serpentine belt! Runs like a top now though.

Then I notice the boot, ugh.... Truck went 55mph for first time in 3yrs a couple days ago though, which probably busted the dried up boot. I hate ifs.

Ed in Maine

Lump, not sure what ADD stands for yet, but yes, hubs are always locked and spinning on this thing.
Vote is currently 1 and 1, assuming I don't have a vote!

Ed in Maine

Forgot to add, I will have my big truck and car hauler with me. My brother in law is borrowing it to bring up his FJ40. But if we both break down, guess who's rig goes on the trailer!

tj884Rdlx

wait a minute. i'm not too familiar with auto differential disconnect, but can someone here confirm that if he's in 2wd, the t case is not powering the front axles, so it doesn't matter if he pops that CV? he'll still be driving the rear.

Ed, the way i see it, if you don't need 4wd before doing your axle swap, ignore that boot. even if you did blow the basket inside and break that joint, it will just drop n' drag. you'll still have drive to the rear wheels.

if you're worried about it popping, you'd be better off wrapping it with an ACE bandage than duct tape. tape won't stick with that grease, but you can pin the bandage after you wrap it. sounds silly, but it would work. regardless, if you're not using the axle as a drive line, there should be no stress on the joint to make it blow anyway.

Lumpy

The ADD is the Automatic Disconnecting Differential. Basically the hubs do not lock or unlock, the front end connects and disconnects. So that the CV's are constantly turning. When I got my 95 4Runner it had a torn boot and I didn't drive much and changed it before I went wheeling. Since you plan to do a SAS soon I'd at least put a boot on. Me I would not be comfortable heading to the woods like that.

Ed in Maine

Thanks TJ, good point on no stress on the actual CV joint. It is basically just free spinning up there with the tire rotation. If I fix this boot, then I am that much lazier on the SAS. If I do not fit it, I will be pumped to get this girl sexy again. Just the way I am.
Ed

Ed in Maine

Come on Lump, you know you like the ace bandage idea? I may give it a shot, but I appreciate your candid opinion. You are right, I will be deep in the woods, no cell phone for 2hrs drive, no fuel for 1.5hrs, no people... Just the way I like it!!

Lumpy

He posted while I was typing away...I did like the Ace bandage made me smile a bit.

I just don't like getting stuck. Take a hand full of tools and have at it. Worst thing is that you may have to pull the CV on the trail.

jrohland

I would not worry about it. If you want, get an oil squirter and pump some oil in after severe duty and/or every weekend until you change to SAS. If it was the outer, I would worry less. The inner CV has needle bearings. They may not like too much debris.

If you are really worried, get some heavy plastic. wrap it around a few times (leave it loose) and clamp both ends with heavy wire ties. That will help keep debris out for a while. Of course, it might capture water and keep it in but, with the grease in there, it should not be a problem.

Bottom line, you should be fine for a month or two.

jrohland

jht3

i converted to manual hubs and have had a ripped CV for over a year now. i'll fix it one of these days. wrapping plastic around it isn't going to last long once the suspension starts flexing while the CV is turning. i'd run it as is, and accept having to replace the axle at a later date, not just the boot

Ed in Maine

I agree on just replacing the whole axle assembly when I am in there. Boot is $20, entire asmbly is $60. Just goes back to how much I want to put into the IFS before the swap.

I will have everything I need to pull the CV on the trail should I end up wailing on the girl. Will PB down all the nuts and cone washers just in case. Good write up's on changing these out on here. I though diff flange was tapped but they appear to be nut/bolts, which is nice, no drilling if they snap.

Just drove it into town after the tune up I mentioned last night. Man does the engine pure now. The plugs I pulled were over .060 gap! #5 cyl was diff from the rest, green oem ngk! 95k mi.

Thanks for all the replies guys, this forum is good yota stuff. I admit, I am a J**P guy but I sold it and, looking for a family wheeling buggy (3 kids...), 'runner fit the bill nicely.
Ed

toyospearo

I remember the day!!
I replaced my entire IFS front end to rid the thing of a terrible clunking. After I got done with the fix I took it on a dirt road and low and behold the terrible clunking was STILL THERE
Turns out it was the UCA's.
That day I decided I was going to SAS so I did!!
Best mod I have done to my truck!!!!!

Ed in Maine

Thanks for the reply spearo. I just finished your complete SAS thread, what a write-up and awesome pics! Good stuff, kind of scares me on the number of hours of work but you went for the top-shelf install. After bird season, she will go in the garage for Nov and Dec, can't wait.

Where did you get your SEM rattle cans of etching primer? That is a good product, did not know it came in a spray bomb.

Ed

tj884Rdlx

haha! what? ACE bandage man! hook it up! lol

as long as you got a handful of bearing grease in there, the joint is cool. the boot just holds it in. an ACE was the first thing i could think of that could be secured under varying flex. it just needs to keep crud out and grease in.

there's a half zillion cars out there right now with torn boots, dry joints, clickin' like crazy when they turn, and they just keep on going til it pops. and those are FRONT wheel drive cars. so don't sweat it, you'll be fine. have a good trip and then get busy with that SAS!

and if you pop that joint open, keep the bearings. they're effective projectiles, should you need that sorta thing. (wrist rocketing raccoons in your trash...left lane texters...etc)

icebox

I used duct tape and zip ties, it held for two week until I got time to replace it. It only took about a hour to replace it, with out pulling the wheel off!!!!!!!!!

mrvoodoodaddy69

I would ignore it, wouldn't even waste my time tape ace bandage nuttin. drove my t100 for months with a torn boot, heck maybe longer. put 100k on one that popped big time when you turned tight. my original idea was I would replace it when it broke, but when it started sounding like someone was kicking a tin can down the road, I changed it. Also those are studs in the drive flange, they are pressed in. I would pound them out and replace with bolts, next time I will! But it is still posibble to change the axle without taking off tire or jacking it up, just takes a little patientce

chrishf12

x2 on driving it as is if you are going to SAS. I drove my 90 pickup for well over a year with a torn boot that had thrown out all the grease. I used 4WD everytime I needed it and never a problem besides the clicking. Pulled me through everything I needed and stuff I never thought I would get out of. I would not recommend this unless you plan on replacing the entire CV or SAS. It can wear the joint to bad if you are planning on just replacing the boot. The joint will hold as long as you can stand the clicking.