Cv axle shaft replacement question
01-14-2014, 05:23 AM
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Cv axle shaft replacement question
I'm about to give go at attempting to replace my cv axle half shafts. I've been studying up reading through the write ups on here ( what great mechanics this site has!), it seems it goes easy for some and it's a 6 hour job for others, hope mine goes easy.
Anyway I have a question that I couldn't seem to find the answer.
When installing the new shaft, would it be a good idea to grease up the shaft good before putting it into the spindle?
My truck also has the spindle bushing groaning noise when temps get below 20F or so, I was wondering if this would help out this problem too? I did pick up the needle bearing and bushing replacement kit to fix the problem, I'm not gonna have time to install those until spring, and I also I have to build up my "mechanic confidence" haha. By that I mean, when looking at these projects and reading up on them on line or in the FSM it seems like a piece of cake, then when you tear into them there's a certain amount of anxiety that sets in. Ie.. I tore into my starter over the weekend to replace the contacts, at one point I honestly thought i had the starter stuck between the exhaust manifold and upper control arm and wasn't gonna be able to get it out
, then, on reinstall, I thought it wouldn't go back in, panic sets in haha. I'll stop rambling,
Thanks for replies!
1992 sr5 pickup 3vze 4x4
Anyway I have a question that I couldn't seem to find the answer.
When installing the new shaft, would it be a good idea to grease up the shaft good before putting it into the spindle?
My truck also has the spindle bushing groaning noise when temps get below 20F or so, I was wondering if this would help out this problem too? I did pick up the needle bearing and bushing replacement kit to fix the problem, I'm not gonna have time to install those until spring, and I also I have to build up my "mechanic confidence" haha. By that I mean, when looking at these projects and reading up on them on line or in the FSM it seems like a piece of cake, then when you tear into them there's a certain amount of anxiety that sets in. Ie.. I tore into my starter over the weekend to replace the contacts, at one point I honestly thought i had the starter stuck between the exhaust manifold and upper control arm and wasn't gonna be able to get it out
, then, on reinstall, I thought it wouldn't go back in, panic sets in haha. I'll stop rambling,Thanks for replies!
1992 sr5 pickup 3vze 4x4
Last edited by hockey88fan; 01-14-2014 at 05:28 AM.
01-14-2014, 09:42 AM
#2
Take a long piece of 1/2" steel bar and pound 3 or 4 of the CV studs out backwards. Once the studs are out, grind the splines off, and just use a nut/bolt setup. Doing this method is BY FAR the easiest. You will probably still have to remove the lower stock bolt to get the boot around it. Piece of cake. Good luck.
/edit also remove the hub flange (or locking hub) bolt/washer on the end of the shaft, and the snap ring.
/edit also remove the hub flange (or locking hub) bolt/washer on the end of the shaft, and the snap ring.
Last edited by vasinvictor; 01-14-2014 at 09:43 AM.
01-14-2014, 11:40 AM
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vasinvictor's method is only "easier" if you don't know that the axle must be lifted (so the suspension is compressed as though the truck were sitting on its wheels). Once you set it up correctly, the half-shaft (CV axle shaft) will come right out. (otherwise, not)
You can beat on your truck with a sledgehammer if you want, but I'm sure that the engineers in Tokyo never contemplated that you'd do something like that for a relatively common maintenance task.
As for greasing the end of the shaft, I've never done it, and it's not in the FSM. But it probably wouldn't hurt.
You can beat on your truck with a sledgehammer if you want, but I'm sure that the engineers in Tokyo never contemplated that you'd do something like that for a relatively common maintenance task.
As for greasing the end of the shaft, I've never done it, and it's not in the FSM. But it probably wouldn't hurt.
01-14-2014, 11:44 AM
#4
And this it's hard for new people to figure out how to tackle something sometimes. Two differing opinions, both correct, on the best way to accomplish something. OK, so you should *probably* use the FSM to learn to replace these parts. However the FSM won't show you shortcuts, tips and trick learned later after the manual was written that could potential save you lots of time.
01-14-2014, 12:18 PM
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My CV axles would NOT come out, even with the suspension loaded and the CV studs pressed (not pounded) out, and turning the front wheels from lock to lock. Just wasn't going to happen. I wound up dropping the front diff, which was OK since I was planning to install the Aussie locker anyway.
Just wanted to point out that the reason there are varying opinions on this is that people do have differing experiences. And, by the way, the FSM instructions on front drive shaft (CV shaft) removal are as follows:italicised comments are mine
1. Jack up vehicle and remove front wheel (inference is that the suspension is dangling unloaded -rjr.)
2. Loosen (6) nuts holding front drive shaft (while depressing brake pedal)
3. Remove freewheeling hub or flange
4. Remove snap ring or spacer (in the outboard end of the CV axle)
5. Remove front drive shaft. (first pull the front drive shaft inboard joint tulip from the side gear shaft, and then pull it out from the steering knuckle.)
That's it. Nothing about loading the suspension, nothing about having to unbolt either the shock or the sway bar link, nothing about the studs being in the way, nothing about turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other. And, I dare anyone to get it out by simply following the FSM procedure as written. If you can, I'd sure like to know which secret incantation I've missed.
I agree that it seems unlikely that Toyota would write an impossible procedure into the FSM. However, the only thing I can think of that I might have missed is that, with suitable leverage and pressure, the tulip joints might compress longitudinally to shorten the CV shaft enough so that it will come out the way the FSM indicates. However, the FSM makes no mention of compressing the tulip joints, and I don't know if that's even possible.
Just wanted to point out that the reason there are varying opinions on this is that people do have differing experiences. And, by the way, the FSM instructions on front drive shaft (CV shaft) removal are as follows:italicised comments are mine
1. Jack up vehicle and remove front wheel (inference is that the suspension is dangling unloaded -rjr.)
2. Loosen (6) nuts holding front drive shaft (while depressing brake pedal)
3. Remove freewheeling hub or flange
4. Remove snap ring or spacer (in the outboard end of the CV axle)
5. Remove front drive shaft. (first pull the front drive shaft inboard joint tulip from the side gear shaft, and then pull it out from the steering knuckle.)
That's it. Nothing about loading the suspension, nothing about having to unbolt either the shock or the sway bar link, nothing about the studs being in the way, nothing about turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other. And, I dare anyone to get it out by simply following the FSM procedure as written. If you can, I'd sure like to know which secret incantation I've missed.
I agree that it seems unlikely that Toyota would write an impossible procedure into the FSM. However, the only thing I can think of that I might have missed is that, with suitable leverage and pressure, the tulip joints might compress longitudinally to shorten the CV shaft enough so that it will come out the way the FSM indicates. However, the FSM makes no mention of compressing the tulip joints, and I don't know if that's even possible.
Last edited by RJR; 01-14-2014 at 12:20 PM.
01-14-2014, 03:19 PM
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I'm gonna try the method of putting a jack under the ball joint and lifting to compress the suspension. I first have to get the correct cv half shaft. Went through five from a parts supplier that all varied in length, and only one had the hub seal on the axle. I returned them all and went to autozone and bought a new one for $75 that the guy told me would be the correct length and will come with that seal. I gotta say I'm nervious about diving into this, hope it goes easy like some have experienced.
01-26-2014, 05:10 PM
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My CV axles would NOT come out, even with the suspension loaded and the CV studs pressed (not pounded) out, and turning the front wheels from lock to lock. Just wasn't going to happen. I wound up dropping the front diff, which was OK since I was planning to install the Aussie locker anyway.
Just wanted to point out that the reason there are varying opinions on this is that people do have differing experiences. And, by the way, the FSM instructions on front drive shaft (CV shaft) removal are as follows:italicised comments are mine
1. Jack up vehicle and remove front wheel (inference is that the suspension is dangling unloaded -rjr.)
2. Loosen (6) nuts holding front drive shaft (while depressing brake pedal)
3. Remove freewheeling hub or flange
4. Remove snap ring or spacer (in the outboard end of the CV axle)
5. Remove front drive shaft. (first pull the front drive shaft inboard joint tulip from the side gear shaft, and then pull it out from the steering knuckle.)
That's it. Nothing about loading the suspension, nothing about having to unbolt either the shock or the sway bar link, nothing about the studs being in the way, nothing about turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other. And, I dare anyone to get it out by simply following the FSM procedure as written. If you can, I'd sure like to know which secret incantation I've missed.
I agree that it seems unlikely that Toyota would write an impossible procedure into the FSM. However, the only thing I can think of that I might have missed is that, with suitable leverage and pressure, the tulip joints might compress longitudinally to shorten the CV shaft enough so that it will come out the way the FSM indicates. However, the FSM makes no mention of compressing the tulip joints, and I don't know if that's even possible.
Just wanted to point out that the reason there are varying opinions on this is that people do have differing experiences. And, by the way, the FSM instructions on front drive shaft (CV shaft) removal are as follows:italicised comments are mine
1. Jack up vehicle and remove front wheel (inference is that the suspension is dangling unloaded -rjr.)
2. Loosen (6) nuts holding front drive shaft (while depressing brake pedal)
3. Remove freewheeling hub or flange
4. Remove snap ring or spacer (in the outboard end of the CV axle)
5. Remove front drive shaft. (first pull the front drive shaft inboard joint tulip from the side gear shaft, and then pull it out from the steering knuckle.)
That's it. Nothing about loading the suspension, nothing about having to unbolt either the shock or the sway bar link, nothing about the studs being in the way, nothing about turning the steering wheel in one direction or the other. And, I dare anyone to get it out by simply following the FSM procedure as written. If you can, I'd sure like to know which secret incantation I've missed.
I agree that it seems unlikely that Toyota would write an impossible procedure into the FSM. However, the only thing I can think of that I might have missed is that, with suitable leverage and pressure, the tulip joints might compress longitudinally to shorten the CV shaft enough so that it will come out the way the FSM indicates. However, the FSM makes no mention of compressing the tulip joints, and I don't know if that's even possible.
1. Loosen 6 nuts holding drive shaft.
2. Remove hub and flange.
3. Remove remove C clip and washer.
4. Remove stabilizer linkage, this was necessary for clearance for the outer boot.
5. With wheels pointing straight forward put a floor jack under lower ball joint to
and jack up until the axle shaft is fairly straight.
6. Pull the tulip off the differential studs.
7. Now turn the steering wheel to the right (for the drivers side cv removal), lower the jack under the ball joint a few inches and the shaft should pull out of the wheel hub.
Installation is reverse of removal. There was a lot of maneuvering of the jack under the ball joint and turning the wheels (and a lot of cursing) until I figured it out. I replaced the stabilizer links on both sides while I was there and that took care of a front end squeak I had as well. The clicking noise from the driver side front end while in 4wd is now gone. If I have to do passenger side I bet I could do it in a couple hours. Thanks again for everyone's input.
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