anthonyg91

Hey guys, first thread and first post (long time lurker)

To start this is not another "how do i get this friggin thing off" thread (I'm pretty capable of utilizing the search function).

I just purchased my first Yota(86 4runner SR5, 190K) and have been tearing into it (learning a lot about how vehicles work in the process). My first priority was fixing any leaks. I noticed a hot nasty smell after driving and attributed that to gear oil leaking(more like being thrown) from the rear output shaft on the transfer case onto the hot hot hot cat. converter... all fixed.

My current endevour is replacing the front crankshaft seal as well as the oil pump gasket. I noticed oil being flung from the pully, onto the belts, and all over the front of the engine. Currently the car is all torn apart, ready for a new gasket and seal. With all that background here is my question,


Is this bolt okay to reuse? Should i apply some extra sealant to the threads? It looks like someone had a hell of a time getting that thing off (I had surprisingly no issues). The part is almost 20 bucks at the stealership and I'd rather not spend money if I don't have to.

Pics:







The seating surface doesn't seem to be affected, so I'm thinking its OK. Also for the oil pump gasket, do I need to use any sort of sealant(like I said, I'm learning one step at a time!).

Thanks!

FGZ

I don't THINK the oil pump gasket needs additional sealant. I'm doing a timing set at the moment and need to double check this as well, haven't gotten that far yet.

That bolt doesn't look the greatest. I don't think sealing is an issue with it, I think that if you can torque it properly when you reinstall it, your biggest risk is not being able to uninstall it again in the future when the head strips. If you think it won't strip, just file down the high spots around the flange and reuse it.

Inferno451

What did they DO to that bolt? If the mating surface is ok I'd run it. No sealant should he required for the oil pump gasket (the o ring looking thing). Check to make sure you don't have a groove worn into the crank where the seal rides.

Rerunn

Yeah lol looks like someone tried to break it loose with an impact, had problems then resorted to the olé hammer and chisel per say to break it loose. Damn things are torqued tighter than hell!
But to answer your question it should be fine to use just be careful not to round it off anymore than it already is. No sealant is required for the oil pump but do not install the o-ring for the oil pump dry!! Put some wheel bearing grease or some oil on it before install. And try to torque the bolts in sequence if you can. Do that and you'll be home free

anthonyg91

Sweet, thanks for the quick feedback! I'm going to use the smaller seal (for the 94 yotas) so I don't have to buy a redi sleeve. The original seal was a Royal B I T C H to get out, even with the whole oil pump assembly removed!

Is there a specific sequence for tightening the oil pump bolts? Or do I just start on one then do the opposite, etc etc(like lugs)?

Rerunn

Sorta just like lug nuts just remember what bolt goes where they are different lengths. Also on your crank pulley take the area that contacts the seal and rub it with some emory cloth. That will keep the seal SEALING per say

Inferno451

Make SURE you put the oil pump bolts in the right place, one goes through the timing cover and if too long will destroy your timing chain. That one gets some sealant on the threads.

anthonyg91

Ah you guys are awesome.

Another Q: Are there any added difficulties/drawbacks to using the redi sleeve? I messed up apparently and bought a timken seal that is the standard size (thinking it was the smaller seal). Now I can either go to toyota, order the seal, wait and then pick it up or just order the timken sleeve for the same price (have it delivered to my door in two days). Both are about the same price....

Also, I forgot which bolts go where, I think this post saved me:
I have two long bolts(sides), two short bolts(bottom) and one slightly longer than the short bolts bolt(top). Look correct?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It is your vehicle but I would throw that bolt out.

I don`t get along well with rounded hardware .

I have also found it much easier to replace the seal with the oil pump out.

How many miles on the engine a new oil pump is not all that expensive when I had a leak i put in a new oil pump as well.

So much easier with the pump flat on the bench where you can see.

scope103

God, I'm glad somebody said that! Here's the part for $7: http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...010516031.html (you have to use your VIN to be sure; they are variants but you can browse and get the right one).

I know those $20 add up, and pretty soon you're spending $80-$100 to make sure you do the job right. Divide it by the number of hours it will take you to replace that crushed part and saving $100 translates into $2/hour. Your time (and sanity) is worth a little more than that.

Incidentally, what's the specified torque on that fastener? (hint: if you have the 3VZE, it's more than you could put on it by standing on a breaker bar!). Someone in the past (with the wrong tools, no doubt) used a hammer and chisel to get it off. You, on the other hand, had no trouble getting it off (but had a lot of oil leakage). See the connection? I'll bet it was put back on "hand-tight", which is about 20% of what it should have been.

tyes

dont ever use an air gun on that crank shaft pully bolt... your gonna regret it.. i used every thing i had and borrow some heavey duty impact snap on tool that are used for big 18 wheeler trucks and that crank bolt didnt want to come out.. i even heated it super red too.. end up cutting it

snobdds

Yes, New Bolt time...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I can only guess my day is coming!!

I just put the impact on and zip off they come.

I am not sure why you would not use a impact but to each their own.

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

The bolt looks fine, but If it were mine, I would replace it.

I also agree with what wyoming said. I find it easier to remove the oil pump and replace the seal that way. And take not of where the bolts come out of. They are specific to each hole and have different torque settings.