Siccished

1985 toyota truck with a 22RE

The battery was relocated to the bed and motor ran well after testing it out. A few days later I replaced the master cylinder and after starting it I got a puff of smoke from the drivers side underhood area and the engine just stalled out. I was pretty messy with the brake fluid so it spilled alot, but I don't remember spilling on any of the wiring.

After checking fuses I figured that I must have shorted something possibly due to lack of grounding. Battery is grounded to the frame, motor is grounded to the wheel well sheetmetal and I was missing the valvecover ground to firewall sheetmetal. I fixed this afterwards by adding a engine to frame ground and valve cover ground.





-CRANKS
-NO SPARK
-Tested and replaced the coil and ignitor with another used part
-AM1/AM2 fuses are good
-Both round metal relays on driver kick panel are tested and work
-I'm getting 12V in the fuse box for these relays
-All fuses elsewhere in the truck are good
- Didn't see any evidence of burned wires


I haven't verified whether I'm getting fuel, but I suspect that I'm not because I popped out a spark plug, cranked it and I couldn't smell fuel nor saw any kind of spray. I did manually apply voltage to the fuel pump at its connector and it does work.



I need some help. Only next thing I can think of is checking continuity between the wires going to the ignitor and ECU..

olharleyman

Did you check the main 80 amp fuse on the right fender wall? Mine did that once and that's what it turned out to be also check your efi fuse while your there.

Siccished

Yep, that would be the AM1 80 AMP fuse.
All my fuses are good.

I'm using a kickpanel fuse cover from an 83 toyota so i'm not sure if they kept the same fuse positions as in my 85, but I show 12V at my EFI fuse with key turned. The one above it (left most in middle) doesn't show 12V. Can you check your kickpanel fuse cover to verify the fuse all the way to the left on the bottom is the EFI fuse?

olharleyman

mine is an 88 but I wll check it if that helps

Siccished

I'm looking at the 1985 FSM and the EFI fuse is in the same position according to the manual.


Tommorrow I check wiring from the ignitor to ECU and also the ECU harness against the FSM. Oh boy...

olharleyman

YA I just realized mine is a v6 so I think the fuses will be different anyway

Siccished

• checked the 3 wires from ignitor to ECU and found no shorts.

I think my HEAD relay in engine bay fuse box may not be working. Its a 5 prong relay.. I may not be testing it right, but is this for the headlights? If it's not applicable then i can eliminate it from my list.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Try the fuel pump test jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

Siccished

Great info!
I jumpered it and NO START. The fuel pump did run...
The COR relay on the passenger side clicked so thats probably good.


When I try to start the motor i'm not sure if the COR relay clicks or not..




Any other ideas?
Heres the wiring diagram that I started to look at
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/3931/22rwiring.jpg

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Likely the CO relay clicking, it always does so but if the starter does not run (usually makes lots of noise) then that is when you hear the CO relay click.

Is the starter cranking over or not?

Siccished

The starter is actually really loud when I turn the key. Its sort of a whining sound. It keeps spinning aftereards until the revolutions go down. May be possible somethings up with the starter, but when I cranked oncr in gear the truck lurched forward.

That's one thing that doesn't sound right. Any ideas?

myyota

Pull the inlet hose off the throttle body and spray a little carb cleaner or starter fluid into the upper intake, slide the pipe back on the throttle body and try and start it, if it acts like its trying to start but doesn`t, then check the solenoid resistor, it has something to do with sending power to the injectors. I had the same problem as your having now, and then nothing, checked all fuses and relays and everything was ok, and just for the heck of it i tried a spare solenoid resister that i had laying around and my truck started on the first try.

Siccished

I'm gonna go to the junkyard and get a replacement EFI relay, COR relay, ignition switch and the little circuit unit that fits inside the distributor. Hopefully I will get spark after replacing all of those things.

volcomdork182

yeah mine did this and i just had to get the efi relay its just a wierd little plug under your dash on the drivers side just below the fuse box. i went to a junkyard and grabbed a couple from a van and a tercel started right up then.

Siccished

UPDATE

I found the problem..
So previously when I was cranking I was hearing a spinning type of noise. It seemed as if the starter itself was faulty bcause I would crank, starter spun and i would immediately have to turn the key back or else the "starter" would make noise.

Removed starter and took it to Autozone so they could check it. Its fine.


I turned the crank pulley to make sure the timing chain didnt snap and when doing so it seemed a little light because there wasnt as much resistance. I pulled off the distributor cap and tried to turn the rotor and IT TURNED freely!

Pulled the valve cover to find that a DOWEL PIN either in the camshaft or the intake cam had BROKEN OFF.


The engine had been cranking without the valve train budging, hence my distributor pickup coil not getting the right signal during cranking to singal the ignitor to send out a spark. This is why I was NOT getting spark and it couldn't start.



WOW, how often does this happen?!?! I just changed the T-chain assembly with an engbldr t-chain kit and this happens. Not sure if it was because of install error or the cam key failed.

Siccished

Does anybody know on which part the dowel pin is pressed into? I watched a part of mine fell into the chain cover and need to replace the part with the missing dowel pin..


There is threee peices to the puzzle.
The distributor drive gear, the circular backing plate, the cam gear and the cam itself.


I don't remember which part had a dowel pin pressed into it. It was getting dark out so I couldn't see well, but it looked like there was a pin on the end of my cam.

Heres a pic:

Siccished

GOT IT RUNNING!

Went to the junkyard to get a new distributor drive gear with the dowel in tact & had somebody help with re-aligning the camshaft to correct mechanical timing. At first we got it off by 1 tooth so it took 3 tries with the chain and adjusting the distributor for the correct position.


So now I guess I have a spare distributor and ignitor/coil...