RAD4Runner

Hi folks!
I HAD occasional metallic creak in front suspension - sounded and felt like i was coming from driver side, which I think I have finally pinpointed to lower control arm mount.

Background:
Only occurs when braking to a full stop, no creak when engine braking (no braking force on front hub), so: I inspected lubricated and/or tested, the ball-joints, steering linkage, hub and brake mounting, sprayed silicone on control arm bushings to see if the tone changed or went away, but the creak stayed.
After I sprayed silicone on the control arm bushings, the creak got mare frequent and louder.

Finally:
Yesterday, I checked the nut on driver side lower control arm mount if it could be tightened any more, as I turned the nut, it budged a little and made exactly that sound I had been hearing. I drove the truck yesterday and today and the creak is gone.

So, what just happened here?
The adjusting cam moved to a position where it's tighter and does not move? Everything looks and feels tight, but I do not have my torque wrench with me to verify.
Is the opening where the LCA pivot oblong that's why the cam needs to be in a certain position?
The FSM says to align the "match marks" of the adjusting cam and torque the nuts, but it does not say how to or which of the mark to position where. I suspect this is something the alignment shop needs to do? I will try to contact the alignment place too.

My actual control arm mounting cam ( I will take clearer photo of position later):

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Keep your eye on that tire if it starts to wear catawampus you moved the cam bolt and changed something

My IFS makes groaning noises all the time

Even with all brandy New Toyota Parts and Bushings

L5wolvesf

The front of my '84 makes a creak/groan when I went over a speed bump or similar thing (at any speed). I did a clean up under the front and greased what I could - didn't change anything. Being semi-annoyed a few days later I shot some silicone at the various bushings and other points - there is less creaking now. One spot I didn't do was the torsion mount - so that will be next. Actually my right knee will be next. Then I can bend down easier to spray the mounts.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

my toyotas always creaked and graoaned. i figured it was just their way of protesting me for being too fat.

128keaton

mine has a 'pop' groan when breaking.. haha

L5wolvesf

"Honey, does this Toyota make my arce look fat?"

coryc85

Ray - wow, 203 ft-lbs for the torque spec, I did not know that. I don't know what you mean you say "Is the opening for the LCA pivot oblong?". The cam itself is egg shaped, as you rotate that cam it pushes on those ears and moves the LCA in/out which allows you to set your camber on your wheel. When the FSM says to align the matchmarks, I believe they mean the front cam and rear cam should be in roughly the same position in regard to the marks. You can check that your camber is close by using a carpenters square and a nice level concrete surface. In your case, I would just check the passenger side for a reference and then check that drivers side is pretty close to same.

scope103

The LCA "hanger" has a hole that is larger than the bolt. As one rotates the disk with the marks, the disk is held by the hanger so it pushes the bolt back and forth (as coryc85 says). That's how camber (and caster) are adjusted, so when it comes time to tighten the bolt you don't want that disk to turn any more. I'm pretty sure that's what the FSM is referring to with "match marks": put the disk in the right place, then don't let it move.

The spec for camber (for 1994!) is 0°25' +/-45' . Which includes 0°. I don't like measuring alignment against the side of a tire (particularly when it's sitting on the ground), so I measure camber with a level. I use a rubber band (wrapped twice) to hold a pair of drywall screws 16" apart poking out from the level. Hold the level with the screw tips touching the rim, then tilt the level until it's straight up. If both drywall screws are touching, you're at 0°. Every 16th of an inch off is about 0°12'. So if you're within an 1/8" you're fine.

The torque specs for the 1994 aren't as high as the reference you have. http://web.archive.org/web/201102060...27frontsus.pdf So the camber spec I gave might not apply either.

If you've had that nut loose enough to creak, then I would think there is a possibility that your alignment has drifted. Even if the correct spec is as low as 145 ft-lb, the fact that you can climb underneath and easily snug it up suggests you could have been way off. Add to that my non-information about the camber spec, and I think you'd be well served by a real alignment.

Or, you can just drive around for a while until you've trashed a tire. Sounds like an expensive method to me.

coryc85

scope - that level method is pretty slick. I have one of those big carpenter's squares, and I measure the distance from bottom of rim to square and top of rim to the square so tire doesn't factor into it, and since 0 deg is in spec, I just want the 2 readings to be the same. I like your level method though, save's me from having to hold the square with one hand and the ruler with the other. So on using the rubberband to hold the drywall screw, you need a wide rubber band to poke the screw through, right?

RAD4Runner

I may be lonely, but I'm never alone...
LOL! Thanks, guys.

Yes, Wyoming, next step is to have it checked by alignment shop.

Another thing which points to alignment... After one alignment job the creak went away. But then after the most recent one it came back. Perhaps, nut needs to be torqued properly.

scope103

Not really; there's really no force on the screw. I wrap the band around twice, so on the edge of the level there are two parallel strips of rubber. Tuck the head of the drywall screw in there between them and it will hold well enough for what you're doing with it. (Sorry; I don't have a pic of this.)

Obviously, this depends on the floor of the garage being level from left to right.

With the square method, you could use a rubber band to hold a pair of chopsticks (only for the Japan-made pickups, of course). Then you could slide the chopsticks in and out to touch the rim with the square against the floor. Then you can measure the stick-out of the chopstick VERY accurately. You might even be able to pull off measuring to 1/32", which is measuring angle to 6' (0.1°)!

RAD4Runner

Thanks guys,
Assuming frame is good, what could make it difficult to align? Bad control arm bushings? Short of removing and inspecting the bushings, I'm able to hit bumps and dips without abnormal sounds, not even creaks os squeak. Could that be indication that bushings are still good?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It is possible the Cam bolt is just worn enough .

I have a set of New ones I bought just in case when I go for alignment .

Here the problem is that the everything seizes fast and won`t move

coryc85

Scope - great idea for the chopsticks. You are very creative with the rubber bands.

Ray - sounds like you've had plenty of alignments. Unless you have that lifetime deal, I'd just do a spot check at home and if it checks out ok, I'd leave it. I've used a string many times to check my toe, and then the square method for the camber. I'm probably about due for a real professional alignment, but for the little bit I drive the truck, I'm ok with my homebrew. It sounds like the nut was not torqued down after your last one.

RAD4Runner

Thanks a lot, guys!

Yes, got lifetime alignment deal; makes sense for an off-road vehicle
So I took it to Firestone and the techs said they had a hard time getting it aligned but were able to do it. They said it could be from worn suspension parts; possible control arm bushings with elongated opening? (I have no issues with it hitting humps, though.)
So I drove her to Trona Pinnacles and back, and the creak did not come back The slight pull to the left was also gone. Will budget for replacement of control arm bushings next.

RAD4Runner

Hi Cory,
I'm surprised that Firestone computer that gets its info from Toyota does not have the torque spec for the lower control arm nut, either, so the tech torqued it to same as UCA spec which is 160, IIRC.
The slight pull to left that it had is gone so I'm gonna redo the torque per FSM spec to make sure things don't move around on me.

All,
Any input about this?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You might really think about replacing the complete control arms.With the bushings installed

Then living where you do it might be easy compared to Here

Most often I end up burning the bushings with the oxy-fuel torch to get them out

RAD4Runner

Tnx, Craig.
Yes,. Will compare cost and/or trouble replacing. I don't like the ieda of burning, though. Someone in the forum sawed the inner metal sleeve in half to make removal easy. I forgot which one, though.
Cheers!

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

get a set at the junkyard for cheap or find someone doing an SAS and getting rid of everything. then you can R&R them as far as paint goes and get new bushings pressed in by a shop. then just a simple swap job.(read:nothing is ever simple)

RAD4Runner

Thanks. Good idea that would minimize downtime. The good thing is the suspension feels solid now so I can take my time shopping, except that the old bushings may cause another difficult alignment in the future.