pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

So I am taking the hubs off of my 86 4cyl. 4x4 and the cone washers on the hub body are being a huge PITA. So my question is. What is the best way to get these out. The hayne's manual says to use a tapered punch and they still wont budge. Is there an easier way to pull these off. If anyone can help it would be appreciated.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I have a couple of techniques on the web page below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eWasherRemoval

I have yet to find a single technique that works on every cone washer, so if one way does not work easily, try another approach.

Jay351

I have always had luck with tapping the side of the hub body (right where the stud is) with a brass hammer while slightly tugging on the hub.

That or using a small flathead or pick, jam it into the slit in the washer...(I have never done this)

Yotapowa

I used a hammer and chisel to loosen them, and then pryed them out with diagonal cutters

leebee

i used to 'massage' the hub body but now use the fine tip flat blade screwdriver in the slot of the cone washer. it seems to work well. trying to pry them out with diagonal cutters will only mangle up the mating surface and make them more difficult to extract on subsequent attempts.

lee

87LVRunner

I just had this fun two nights ago, spray a little WD or something like it. I actually used engine cleaner, walked for ten minutes, came back and tapped on the side of the hub and they came right out. I used a rubber mallet.

95RunnerSR5

i just use a 4lb mini sledge and smack the sides of the hub body while rotating it and walaa it flies of

dntsdad

I must have been extremely lucky because mine came right off. I put a nut on the stud and lightly tapped it side to side with a small hammer and they popped right off.

Took maybe 10-15 seconds a washer.

ironroad9c1

yea PB blaster (A Penetrent unlike WD 40) and a tap to the side of the hub right at the one you are trying to take off worked everytime.

iamsuperbleeder

just to let you know, if you tap on the side of the hub body with a regular hammer, you WILL bend up and scar the hub body...

UNLESS you cushin the blow with a block of wood; but then that kind of defeats the purpose because it obsorbs the shock of the impact, with is what you need to dislodge the cone-washers in the first place...

but if that doesn't concern you, then by all means, beat the hell out of it


as dntsdad said, putting a nut on the end of the stud helps cause it wont damage the stud itself

my method was to use an old 3/8" drive extention. I held the end that you put a socket on up against the stud, then gave the other end a few good solid hits with the 'ol hammer, and the things popped right out in about 2 or 3 hits. Worked great, but mind you it did deform the extention to where is was no longer useable, but it was an old cheap one made from some soft metal (which was another reason it was good for this; being soft made it like using a brass drift, which is what the FSM says to use)

direct, blunt force applied to the stud will get that thing loose FAR quicker than beating on the side of the hub body though...

and some penetrating oil a day or 2 before definately pays off too

good luck!


any sorry about not having that 54mm socket to lend you bro; did you get ahold of one yet?

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

Tnanks guys. My buddy came over picked up a hammer and tapped the hub body twice and it flew out out. So needles to say everything got done. Oh and don't buy Duralast cv axels. They're crap.

86Toyrunna

iv tryed it several ways but IMO the best way iv found is to soak em down in PB and then back the nuts off to the end of the stud, take a brass drift and wack the stud, make sure u use brass or something softer then the steel, dont wanna bend or damage the studs.. some may say its the wrong way of doing it but its workd for me.

scuba

I just used a small random 3/8"ths extension I had laying around, female end on the stud, hammer to the other end, When It budges out the least bit grab a pair of pliers and pull, If that doesnt get it try jamming a screwdriver in the slit...If that still doesnt work, well, Repeat step one...

LTrunner

the trick that i've used on mine and my buddies hubs,this seems to do the trick all the time, losen the nut all the way to the end of the stud, so to make a falt surface at the end. grab a peice of steel hold it against the stud and beat it with a hammer...move to the oposite stud and do the same...repeat this in a rotating pattern( like a torque pattern). go around the whole hub after in a circle doing the same... then check and see if any lossened up and remove them...for the ones that are really stuck you might have to use a 3lb hand sledge...good luck

iamsuperbleeder

it seems as everyone has their own technique for this...

best idea is to try each out and see which works the best for you; you've got 12 of them to get out, I think you can try each idea at least once

TNRabbit

Just grease the hell out of them so you don't have this trouble the next time...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

PB Blaster. Soak them down.
Brass Drift. Used to cushion the blow between studs or manual hub body and the latter.
BFH.

Remove nuts/washers. Tap studs with BFH with brass drift used in between to cushion the blow. Repeat around the circle several times. Tap the sides the hub body with BFH using the brass drift. All it takes it getting ONE loose and rest will loosen up with persistence. There is never any need to beat on the hub body or studs hard enough to damage them yet I get manual hubs in all the time where morons have done it this way.

A small bladed screwdriver or two can help you to get the cone washers off once they are loose.

Slowstrike

You know I dont see anyone do this but, there is a slit that stops the completion of the circle of the washer itself if you seperate it with a small screwdriver they come out everytime the only hard part is if the slit is facing inward toward the hub. This has worked for me everytime no matter how stuck.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

If you read the web page I posted earlier, you'll see this technique described in detail and is the one I mainly use. Works well if the washer is stuck due to other than just locked in tight, for example if there is a small burr on the stud or washer or if the washer is somewhat deformed as I have seen a few times.

Matt16

I hit the hub body with a framing hammer. It dented the outside, but didn't to any damage. I think I will use a different method from now on though.