bornADK

Ill start by summarizing.

Hard starts when raining. Solution no clutch start pop start down my driveway.

No start when cold. Solution no clutch pop start down my driveway.
SNOW prevents no clutch pop start down driveway. UNLESS towed by my buddy then the truck will start but have a very hard time.


Replaced my coolant temp sensor. (however after testing my old one its working)

Check engine light has always been on. jumpered it today giving me code 21. Assuming a bad o2 sensor wont cause a start problem..right? its functionality is after the engine is running??

Jumpered the fuel pump as always ON then key is in the ON state. Can hear it turn on and run.

Dumped about 2 bottles of dry gas in my tank and filled it last time i pop started.

Temp outside is around 7degrees. Very hard time cranking so i hooked it up to my gf;s honda and had it cranking but still no start.

when attempting to start with fuel pump jumpered and in connection with gs battery. I smell a bit of gasoline.

Could this be fuel damper or cold start injector.?

If so what are the testing measures to check both.? and a picture if possible or link to where both are for removal.

Ive also tried starter flued both in the air box and directly to the intake.

any help tips links would be great help. this is my plow truck my parents and my neighbors need it running!

many thanks.!

bornADK

bump

22re 5spd standard 180k miles

changed fuel pump this summer
changed spark plugs this summer

pretty sure i put 0W in it for the winter.

mountaingoat

Are you getting good spark? If you're (1) smelling fuel and (2) it won't fire even on ether, then I'd start looking there. Test spark, look at distributor cap/rotor and test your coil.

You can try pulling your plugs and squirting a smidge of fuel down each plug hole too, that'll pretty much rule out fuel.

If it'll pop start when it won't start normally, I'd suspect that it wouldn't have to do with fuel. Could be your starter is getting weak and not cranking as fast as it needs to.

bornADK

So if my cold start injector is bad. It "should" start of ether correct? Ill give it another shot of starter fluid and see if anything happens.

As i said i can pop start it and after a rough boggled engine start. runs fine. other then a bit of hesitation at low rpms. Assuming thats probably due to bad o2 sensor which ill be changing soon.

How easy is it to swap the starter? My dad has a 92 pickup i can swap some parts on. Will dig around a bit and read up on testing and changing the starter.


So only way i can get it started is a pop start when its wet. or cold.

mountaingoat

I would think that it would fire off the ether, but I would try a bit of fuel down the plug holes. Never know, might fire and then you'd have a pretty good indication that it's cold-start injector related. Also, have you read Joust's excellent thread on the CSI? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-one-228519/

On a related note...careful with the ether, that stuff likes to go bang in expensive ways.

That said...if you're able to pop start it cold, then it doesn't make sense to me that your CSI would be bad. The only functional difference with a pop start is that (1) your starter isn't engaged and (2) you may possibly be cranking it over faster than the starter can manage. Your engine isn't getting any more fuel when pop starting than it is when you crank it with the key, so if it won't start due to lack of fuel I can't see why it would by pop starting if you see what I'm saying.

Starter shouldn't be too hard to pull, it's pretty accessible IIRC. Before you do that though, I'd check over your starter wiring and grounds, just in case it's not getting enough juice due to a poor connection somewhere.

bornADK

Would also note that up until yesterday (7F outside) it sounds as if its cranking just fine. Needed to setup some jumper cables on my gf's car to get it to crank normal. If not it sounded like death .. very slow cranks.

Will go see if i can locate the starter and check the wiring.

Joust

Thanks for the kudos Moutaingoat.

BornADK, if you are spraying into the intake make sure you jumper the fuel pump on by shorting Fp to B+. if you do get it started and your AFM is disconnected, your pump will not come on after you let the key go back to the "Run" position from "Start"

Is the problem that it simply wont turn over well, or cranks over but just won't fire?
The CSI is not used unless the key is in the "Start" position. and even then it only sprays for ~3sec max. I mounted a switch that lets me hold it on. you simply need to ground one of the wires on its connector.

bornADK

Currently..

Its hardly cranking over at all. (and when leaving the key turned for a few secs attempts to crank then just starts clicking) Not sure if this is from the temperature. But once i had it in a loop with gf's battery. It sounded as if it was cranking over just fine. (which it had also been cranking over fine until yesterday..but not starting)

I did jumper my fuel pump. But not at the same time i tried the ether. Currently do not have another car to jump off of and attempt.

Also when i had pop started the truck. If i ran it for awhile i was able to start it back up on its own. A nice and hot engine (when plowing) made is much easier (started after only a few cranks). A still semi-cold (2mile drive) engine when i filled up the gas tank almost did not start again at the pumps.

Also when i say it pop starts this is being towed... and starts very hard. Need to be out on the pavement and going 10-15mph. Then it still takes a good 50-100 feet sometimes.

bornADK

Once running it bogs down at low rpms and wants to die. Not always and mainly before the engine is warm. I assumed this was either bad gas or my bad o2 sensor. If i keep at a low gear high rpm i notice nothing.

Joust

i'm having trouble following the symptoms.
and you seem to be having multiple problems. including a weak battery.
if you are smelling gas, I think you have a leak in your fuel system somewhere. cracked hose maybe. this would let the pressure out. you should have about 40 pounds of fuel pressure in the rail.
I'd put a charger on the battery and look long and hard at the regulator, hoses and injectors.
initally, I'd jumper the pump on. there is no harm in doing that unless you roll the truck and leave it with the keyswitch on. all that junk with the Fp and Fc line is safety stuff in case of an accident. it turns the pump off. once you figure out your other problems, remove the jumper and continue on. at least you can have peace of mind that you are getting fuel.
maybe you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from an autoparts store. It would go on with a banjo bolt in place of the Cold start injector. but it sounds like you have fuel pressure when the pump is running.

bornADK

Battery fully charged
Engine is cranking fine (eliminates bad starter?)
Starter Fluid in the air intake = nothing. (eliminates cold start injector?)
Swapped coolant temp sensor = no go
Did not change coolant temp sendor. (does this function with the starting? or just the dashboard reading)
Jumpered the fuel pump to always on (i can hear it running). And added starter fluid = no go

Truck will start with a pop start. Starts rough though.
Truck runs fine other then the bad o2 sensor. (but o2 sensor isnt used in startup correct?)
Engine code is 21 = o2 sensor

Truck starts fine after its been warm and running.
Truck starts fine when its not cold.
Truck has trouble starting after it rains.

Almost ready to take it to the shop....
Any suggestions?

Bad/poor timing maybe???

Thanks in advance