Code 7 and 11
#1
Code 7 and 11
Hello all,
I'm new to the 22re world and have been absorbing as much as possible from this site and 4 crawler. I've searched around for the probable causes of codes 7 and 11, and I'm thinking that I just need to buy a TPS sensor and get it over with. Here's the stats:
87 4Runner 22Re
valves recently adjusted
timing adjusted, runs best at 10 BTDC. 5BTDC simply would not work, it idled poorly and really stumbled. reading posts here seem to point to the TPS.
Engine is throwing codes 5, 7, and 11.
When idling and I jumper the T and E, the idle does NOT change.
I don't have an ohm meter (yet) to really test out the TPS according to 4Crawler. Well, I have one, but it only goes to 1000. Since I checked it with this meter, I thinking know that may have caused the Code 7.
So basically, I'm wondering if the 7 and 11 combined with the fact that the idle doesn't change is enough to assume it's the TPS?
I'm new to the 22re world and have been absorbing as much as possible from this site and 4 crawler. I've searched around for the probable causes of codes 7 and 11, and I'm thinking that I just need to buy a TPS sensor and get it over with. Here's the stats:
87 4Runner 22Re
valves recently adjusted
timing adjusted, runs best at 10 BTDC. 5BTDC simply would not work, it idled poorly and really stumbled. reading posts here seem to point to the TPS.
Engine is throwing codes 5, 7, and 11.
When idling and I jumper the T and E, the idle does NOT change.
I don't have an ohm meter (yet) to really test out the TPS according to 4Crawler. Well, I have one, but it only goes to 1000. Since I checked it with this meter, I thinking know that may have caused the Code 7.
So basically, I'm wondering if the 7 and 11 combined with the fact that the idle doesn't change is enough to assume it's the TPS?
Last edited by dwest76; 04-07-2009 at 04:53 PM. Reason: thought of something
#2
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Start the engine, insert the jumper, then loosen the TPS and rotate the top of it towards the radiator very slowly until you hear the idle speed make a sudden change. Tighten the TPS and adjust the idle speed back up to about 700-750. Adjust the timing to 5, and re-adjust the idle speed back to 700-750... this may take a few timing / idle adjustments to get straight. Then remove the jumper, disconnect the EFI fuse or battery for about a minute, then start it and see how it drives.
#4
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I said in my post to rotate the top of the TPS towards the radiator. But after looking at my engine, I should've said rotate to top of the TPS away from the radiator.
#5
Thanks guys. I'll try the TPS adjustment after work today. So.....if the idle doesn't change while I'm turning it the TPS will need replaced?
I forgot to add in my original post that the VTA-E2 test came in at 780, so it was good.
I forgot to add in my original post that the VTA-E2 test came in at 780, so it was good.
#6
For some closure on this thread.........
I did what abecedarian described above, found the point where everything changed. I also borrowed an ohm meter, so when I got it to that point I checked it. It took a little tweaking, probably from me playing with the meter more than anything, but I got it in what looked like the right spot. Adjusted the timing to 5 and reset the idle and it runs awesome!!
Thanks for saving me some cash!
I did what abecedarian described above, found the point where everything changed. I also borrowed an ohm meter, so when I got it to that point I checked it. It took a little tweaking, probably from me playing with the meter more than anything, but I got it in what looked like the right spot. Adjusted the timing to 5 and reset the idle and it runs awesome!!
Thanks for saving me some cash!
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