Kiroshu

Hey i've tested alot of stuff and am lead to believe i'm in need of a new igniter but i want to know if anyone else has an opinion bout this. My truck had an intermittent prob with the truck cutting off at idle in traffic randomly. Then its left me stranded in the parking lot at my school. Its got spark and the fuel pump is new an working BUT its not cutting on upon cranking time. Any ideas i plan to change the igniter and see but um anyone got another idea incase of my failure plan.

Kiroshu

well...

Kiroshu

Oh and forgot to mention a few days and during this happening when i would accelerate at about 2-3rpms the tach would bounce like crazy between those 2 rpms. most of the time when it did it, it didn't change the tuck performance but sometimes when it happened it would randoml missfire.....

Team420

Going thru the same here... prolly the igniter

Kiroshu

Yea thats the best guess i got too since everything else in the igniton curcit is new just about....

Team420

have you checked out the dizzy yet? The rpm signal is generated by the ne pickups in the dizzy.....

milehigheric

Sounds like the an ignitor issue.

Kiroshu

yea i plan to get a new distributor just to knock it out.... i think i replaced it like a year ago so yea. should have lasted longer.... there was a lil corrosion in the distributor contacts but yea nothing major looking..... truck still not starting right now its parked and i'm trying to get a 100% sure igniter replacement. but not sure yet.... going to trouble shoot later on.

khany2002

Test the signal generator in the distributor if it's a 22RE.

That's the connector coming out from the top of the distributor.

On mine, it was in its early stages of failing, and was only messing up when the truck was hot. If you started it cold, it ran fine. If you heated the truck up, it would crank and crank, but not fire until it had cooled down.

If you do a resistance test cold, it will fall near within spec. Run the truck for a bit, come back, shut the truck off to let the engine heat really heat up the signal generator, and test the resistance. Mine would slowly run up to crazy resistances, which would prevent the truck from cranking over, and at one point, was even nearly killing the truck while driving.

I too thought my ignitor was bad -- if you do a quick voltage test, you can see if it is at fault. If the truck runs properly when it is actually running, I doubt your ignitor is at fault.

Kiroshu

hmm interesting point. yes she is a 22re. Because yes it usually cranks when cold fine and i'll drive it 20-30 mins and sit at idle at a light or something and go to take off and shes just dies. Or i'll drive her somewhere turn her off and go in for a bit to school or what ever then ocme out and she don't wanna crank. I'm lead to believe this is related to my hard starts sometimes and rough starts. Someitimes she will start and stop instantly. I've not had time to test anything cause the truck is far from my house at my school. My schools a shop so i plan to test more there. I wonder what would cause it to have a different resistance when cold then hot..... somethings wore out or failing somewhere.... if the problem showed itself in the connectors faulty resistance and or voltage.... i'm still trying to figure out what part cold be faulty if any....

Kiroshu

OK big update and serious issue. My life is freakin sweet. OK so i had the truck at my school/shop and i got there this morning and started it up and it ran fine for about 3mins then cut off. So i'm like ok i lost somethin. So i tried again and it startedback up but stopped right away, and kept doing this...... so i checked again for spark. I had spark and a very good spark indeed. I tested the pick-up coil for resistance and itwas good. tested the coil and it was good. Distributor good. so i figured its not spark related. Over a period of 4 hours it would still start up and run for a sec then cut off. Sometimes start up run for a few mins the cut off..... sometimes would not start at all....... I checked to see if the fuel pump was working. It indeed was. i had a lifetime warranty on the pump so i also swaped it out and still would not start engine. So i hooked in a fuel pressure guage to the system and it read about 35 psi which was in toyota specs of 33-38 psi. It held this fuel pressure nicely. I tried it with the starting prob. When the truck would die the fuel pressure was still steady. thus not fuel.... so i started looking toward the air flow meter.... i figured it would throw a code for it though? Ok so originaly a few days ago the only codes i had were code 6 rpm signal. Well then it changed and i got 2 more. This morning i got a starter signal code which was code 11 i believe and code 4 for thermo sensor.... these were wierd codes and kinda didn't think much of them and kept troublshooting..... ok so i finally started with the airlfow meter. i tested it for resistance in the terminals. On i believe 1 or 2 terminal tests the resistance was way way too high and the book said it was bad. So ok i figured that made sense. I bought the part and tested it before i put it on and it tested good. I put it on and the truck fired right up. So i'm going sweet right about now. So i go to drive it around the block and its all good shes pullin great. So on my way home tonight going down I95 about 65MPH the truck suddenly lurches and the check engine light comes on and i have lost like all power.... with the pedal to floor she keep on slowing until she cut off on me..... so i roll to the side of the road and i'm cussing right about now......... i'm trippin out and thinking why me.... so first thing i do is get the codes out. I get some new codes now. First code was.....code 2 air flow meter circut...second code was.....code 6 rpm signal....... thrid code was.......code 8 air temp sesnor(i think it was).... so now the truck is doing what it was originaly... not starting and or starting for one sec and cutting of......i tested the aiflow meter again and it still shows good.... tried resting the comp...no dice..... tried to spray some carb cleaner in the intake to get it to run and no dice on that either..... i'm super stumped and right now its on the side of I95 and i plan to try and move it home in the morning.... it died less than a mile from my exit to my house..... any help would be super awsome.....

Kiroshu

I need some kinda seinor yota peeps on this one its got me boggled.....

Kiroshu

You think that would have anything to do with the airflow meter? Now that you metion it there is bookoo electrical tape around it. I'll check it out and see.....Tomarrow i guess.

sb5walker

The cut out at idle often is either a leak in the air hose between vafm & throttle body, or a failing fuel pump switch in the meter. Since you have a tested good vafm, but you got a couple vafm codes, look at wiring to it.

Check the vafm connector, and the wiring harness. Especially check grounds. Make sure ecu term E1 has good contact w/the chassis, terms E01/E02 are tight with the engine, and that the chassis & engine are tight with the neg batt post.

In the harness side of the vafm connector, the second pin from the right is E1. That's the ecu's chassis ground - that terminal on the ecu should have a direct connection to the chassis, I think it's on the driver's side post. Anyway, check that that pin has solid continuity with a good chassis ground. If not, either the connection from the vafm connector to the ecu is bad, or the E1 terminal on the ecu doesn't have good contact with the chassis.

Most of your sensor/ignition ground wires will be brown, with or without a stripe of another color, so you can scan around the engine compartment to see if one of those might be in trouble.

Try cleaning up the igniter ground, which is the mounting bolts, but also I think with your year vehicle, the igniter might also have an E1 wire to it, which may be brown with or without stripe.

For a little more info, jump +B and FP in the check connector and drive it that way, see if it does less cutting out on you. If so, that points to either the connection to the fuel pump switch in the air meter or the circuit opening relay itself.

A sketchy ignition switch could cause these problems; it's hard to pin down cause they are often intermittent. Check for steady batt voltage on the positive terminal of the ignition coil when ignition is on. The voltage should be almost identical to battery voltage. Also check for steady voltage on +B in the check connector - if bad, that could be caused by a bad EFI Main Relay, bad ignition switch, bad connection between them (goes through IGN fuse in drivers kick).

Then again, could be the igniter.

Good luck.

Kiroshu

^Yea thanks man its a bit late now and i've been at school. I'm going to tinker tommarrow thanks for the tips. After all this i had done i planned to start tracing wires but you gave me a few more ideas too. Ok um also i think yota4runna said the wire coming from the ignitor across the valve cover going into the Intake manifold area. I've had an issue with that wire before to were if i moved it, the truck would cut off. The wire has bookoo electrical tape around it and my step dad does not remeber if anyones messed with it cause he has not... so i'm leaning toward that wire and i'm going tot strip the tap and cover to see whats up. I know for sure its getting proper spark al the way. It jumped like crazy on the spark tester. I hooked a fuel pressure guage to the main fuel line and linked it in so the truck would still run with the guage. With that guage in there the fuel pressure was about 34psi. Even when the truck died or would crank for a sec and die the fuel pressure was steady. I know its not the fuel pump. Something is cutting off the injectors and i think its in the wire i have a hunch but i'm going to trouble shoot tomarrow thanks for the input guys i'll let you know whats up.

Kiroshu

Update!!!!! Truck FIXED! Seems as i suspected and a lil thanks to yota4runna for reminding me. The wire running across the valve cover over the exhaust manifold coming from the ignitor was broke. Seems thats all it was the whole time! Prob fixed! I rigged it up good to where it will never break again! It seems along time ago someone had broke or cut the wires before and put one of those tube connecters to join the wires(sad i can't remeber the name of them) and they were all broke and busted covered in electriacal tape.... annoying to get melted tape off..... got a pic here and vid uplaoding in a few mins to show.

Kiroshu

Heres a vid. Sorry i might sound quite but my engine is noisey.