Clutch Replacement Tips?
#1
Clutch Replacement Tips?
Hey fellow yota guys! Here is a bit of background:
Bought my first yota, 92 pickup with a 3VZE and a five speed, about a year ago which had around 360k on it. Within the first month, I did a full headgasket replacement with new heads, Downey CAI, Downey ceramic headers, timing belt replacment, water pump, etc., and it runs like a dream. Also has a 1" lift with 33 MTRs and stock gears. However, I noticed that the clutch and the transmission was hard to put into gear.
Right away, I replaced the shifter seats and bushings which helped but of course will not help a slipping clutch.
I bought a new Aisin clutch kit from Trail Gear and a brand new flywheel from Marlin Crawler which I thought would bolt right up....
Flywheel was correct and I believe the clutch disc is correct but the pressure plate would not slide into place because it was a little bit too small for the dowel pins. Called up my local parts store and got an off brand kit and just used the pressure plate with the Aisin clutch disc. That all seems to be okay.
When I removed the transmission, I didn't remove the transfer case because I knew and heard that you can take it out in one piece. I also did not remove the exhaust because i simply did not want to **** with it. Putting the transmission back in is a different story. That is where I need some advice. I had it in place with about a three inch gap all the way around between the block/oil pan and the bell housing. I put grease on the splines before I tried stabbing it in too. But it just wouldnt go in! I wrestled with it for hours today and nothing.
Frustrated as hell, I ask my Dad to help me and we still couldnt get it in. After trying with my dad, the position of it got worse and we decided to remove the transfer case. I started to unbolt it and I think I started to take off the wrong bolts. 14 mm all the way around going towards the engine, directly on top is where the back of the opening is where the 4WD shifter is. I gave up.
I'm not going to be able to work on it until after work tomorrow but I need some advice or recommendations of what to do or try. I also work at a shop so I can basically get any tool possible. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated! - Tyler
Waiting to be installed: 5:29 gears with spartan lockers.
Bought my first yota, 92 pickup with a 3VZE and a five speed, about a year ago which had around 360k on it. Within the first month, I did a full headgasket replacement with new heads, Downey CAI, Downey ceramic headers, timing belt replacment, water pump, etc., and it runs like a dream. Also has a 1" lift with 33 MTRs and stock gears. However, I noticed that the clutch and the transmission was hard to put into gear.
Right away, I replaced the shifter seats and bushings which helped but of course will not help a slipping clutch.
I bought a new Aisin clutch kit from Trail Gear and a brand new flywheel from Marlin Crawler which I thought would bolt right up....
Flywheel was correct and I believe the clutch disc is correct but the pressure plate would not slide into place because it was a little bit too small for the dowel pins. Called up my local parts store and got an off brand kit and just used the pressure plate with the Aisin clutch disc. That all seems to be okay.
When I removed the transmission, I didn't remove the transfer case because I knew and heard that you can take it out in one piece. I also did not remove the exhaust because i simply did not want to **** with it. Putting the transmission back in is a different story. That is where I need some advice. I had it in place with about a three inch gap all the way around between the block/oil pan and the bell housing. I put grease on the splines before I tried stabbing it in too. But it just wouldnt go in! I wrestled with it for hours today and nothing.
Frustrated as hell, I ask my Dad to help me and we still couldnt get it in. After trying with my dad, the position of it got worse and we decided to remove the transfer case. I started to unbolt it and I think I started to take off the wrong bolts. 14 mm all the way around going towards the engine, directly on top is where the back of the opening is where the 4WD shifter is. I gave up.
I'm not going to be able to work on it until after work tomorrow but I need some advice or recommendations of what to do or try. I also work at a shop so I can basically get any tool possible. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated! - Tyler
Waiting to be installed: 5:29 gears with spartan lockers.
#3
Registered User
Did you use a pilot tool to get the clutch disc centered just right before tightning the pressure plate down?
Sometimes having the tranny in gear and turning the output shaft slightly will let the splines pass thru the disc.
Many times, just the slightest change in angles is enough to permit the shaft to go thru and seat into the pilot bearing.
I often make up some long studs for a couple of the bellhousing holes to help guide the tranny into position true.
Sometimes ya just gotta hold your mouth right. You'll get it done!
Sometimes having the tranny in gear and turning the output shaft slightly will let the splines pass thru the disc.
Many times, just the slightest change in angles is enough to permit the shaft to go thru and seat into the pilot bearing.
I often make up some long studs for a couple of the bellhousing holes to help guide the tranny into position true.
Sometimes ya just gotta hold your mouth right. You'll get it done!
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
This is one of those things each install can be just a little different.
I have found two floor jacks one under the engine one under the transmission /case
Using both to get the correct angle I always put them in as a complete unit
Getting things lined up correct before torquing things down is important otherwise the splines will never line up to allow things to slide in.
In gear so it can be turned to line up.
If I recall the back end of the case needs to be pretty low to not get hung up on the floor .
Most likely the bell housing is against something not allowing it to go closer to the engine.
I have found two floor jacks one under the engine one under the transmission /case
Using both to get the correct angle I always put them in as a complete unit
Getting things lined up correct before torquing things down is important otherwise the splines will never line up to allow things to slide in.
In gear so it can be turned to line up.
If I recall the back end of the case needs to be pretty low to not get hung up on the floor .
Most likely the bell housing is against something not allowing it to go closer to the engine.
#5
This is one of those things each install can be just a little different.
I have found two floor jacks one under the engine one under the transmission /case
Using both to get the correct angle I always put them in as a complete unit
Getting things lined up correct before torquing things down is important otherwise the splines will never line up to allow things to slide in.
In gear so it can be turned to line up.
If I recall the back end of the case needs to be pretty low to not get hung up on the floor .
Most likely the bell housing is against something not allowing it to go closer to the engine.
I have found two floor jacks one under the engine one under the transmission /case
Using both to get the correct angle I always put them in as a complete unit
Getting things lined up correct before torquing things down is important otherwise the splines will never line up to allow things to slide in.
In gear so it can be turned to line up.
If I recall the back end of the case needs to be pretty low to not get hung up on the floor .
Most likely the bell housing is against something not allowing it to go closer to the engine.
Pop! Went right in! I was praying to all of the yota gods. Now time to get the starter in place and put everything back in tomorrow night. Thanks guys for your replies, I will post tomorrow about the final install.
#6
Did you use a pilot tool to get the clutch disc centered just right before tightning the pressure plate down?
Sometimes having the tranny in gear and turning the output shaft slightly will let the splines pass thru the disc.
Many times, just the slightest change in angles is enough to permit the shaft to go thru and seat into the pilot bearing.
I often make up some long studs for a couple of the bellhousing holes to help guide the tranny into position true.
Sometimes ya just gotta hold your mouth right. You'll get it done!
Sometimes having the tranny in gear and turning the output shaft slightly will let the splines pass thru the disc.
Many times, just the slightest change in angles is enough to permit the shaft to go thru and seat into the pilot bearing.
I often make up some long studs for a couple of the bellhousing holes to help guide the tranny into position true.
Sometimes ya just gotta hold your mouth right. You'll get it done!
#7
Just finished my clutch tonight at 1230. Everything went in cherry but now I'm having a starter issue.
When I tried to crank it over on first test, I heard the starter grind and no start. I just took a peak at it and it seemed okay but I want to double check it tomorrow. Any ideas?
When I tried to crank it over on first test, I heard the starter grind and no start. I just took a peak at it and it seemed okay but I want to double check it tomorrow. Any ideas?
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#9
A few things to do, first try the clutch disk on the splines at the transmission before you install it, and like was said put the disk on the pilot tool then install the pressure plate. Grease the input shaft and put the transmission in gear. make sure youir transmission is on a level transmission jack, i put mine in ( 1991 4wd pickup 22re)with a floor jack I cut some blocks for the plate on the jack to make sure the transmission was level, i have the better transfer case or the one that does not use the chain inside. I have been a mechanic for 40+ years rebuilt my share of gas/diesel engines and transmissions. When you get it close and the input shaft touches the splines of the clutch use your feet on the back of the transfer case and twist the output shaft with your feet as you push. I have cussed a few transmissions in, and no two go together the same.
#10
A few things to do, first try the clutch disk on the splines at the transmission before you install it, and like was said put the disk on the pilot tool then install the pressure plate. Grease the input shaft and put the transmission in gear. make sure youir transmission is on a level transmission jack, i put mine in ( 1991 4wd pickup 22re)with a floor jack I cut some blocks for the plate on the jack to make sure the transmission was level, i have the better transfer case or the one that does not use the chain inside. I have been a mechanic for 40+ years rebuilt my share of gas/diesel engines and transmissions. When you get it close and the input shaft touches the splines of the clutch use your feet on the back of the transfer case and twist the output shaft with your feet as you push. I have cussed a few transmissions in, and no two go together the same.
I did get my transmission back in and everything was all cherry but the starter. I bought a new starter thinking I can just unbolt it and slide it out but hell no. My coworker recommended that I take the inner fender cover off but even if I did it still wouldn't clear my ceramic headers. So then I decided to take out the motor mount and it would slide right out. However the top left bolt was stripped before I even got to it. Any other ways I can get it out? I don't want to have to tow it to my shop....
#11
But I don't think I got it in crooked because I had both bolts in and pretty damn tight. The first time I tried to crank it, I heard a grinding noise coming from the starter.
Today I backed it out and put it back in. I cranked it and nothing. I did see smoke come out of the starter area. Maybe the WD40 I sprayed on the motor mount bolts? Grounding out?
I can't see or feel the side with the screw in connection so I have no idea
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