DupermanDave

So my clutch started slipping this morning. I don't know if it was because it was cold out or if it's because I burned it out.

But now I'm planning on replacing the clutch. This is a daily driver and not a rock crawler. I was considering the marlin clutches, but they're expensive and at this point I'm looking for something to put in before winter (clutches always seem to fail for me during winter)

What toold are needed for this job? i have been searching and reviewing manuals and pictures, and all I can see I need is a lot of sockets, extentions, and a transmission jack. What about a pilot bearing puller? I had to rent one of those when I did the clutch on the suzuki I owned.

Anyone know of a write up for this with lots of pics? I don't trust manuals any longer. When I did the clutch on my sidekick, it was pretty half-arsed. We spent an entire day trying to find out why the bell housing wouldnt separate from the engine. Turns out there was a dirt shield bolted on that we eventually shredded off.

What clutch brands do you guys recommend? I used an exedy in my sidekick with no problems, and I found a kit for $80 on amazon.com (from exedy). I'm also considering the wabfab aisin kit.

yoterr

well the aisin kit is prolly ur best bet, i just changed mine out the other day and it was the original clutch , and its got 200K and 35's needless to say it ws burnt up but it lasted a lil wile and theirs no crazy dirt shields or anything weird holding it together, just 2 bolts at the top, one on the driverside and the starter bolts on the pass side, at least thats all that mine had in it, and i would highly recommend a tranny jack....mine basically fell but its landing was eased by the jack i had under it lol

DupermanDave

So for basic steps:

remove driveshaft (is there oil/fluid in the shaft?)
remove starter
drain transmission fluid
remove bellhousing
replace clutch

is that about it? Or am I missing something?

yoterr

dont have to drain tranny fluid unless you want too..and only autos will have fluid coming out of the rear d-shaft.. so your good to go, no fluids and yeah thats about it...to get your throwout bearing off its held on by little clips keeping it with the clutch fork just slide the clips off and take the old bearing off.......and i allmost forgot your going to need a vice to replace the throwout bearing, its pressed onto a housing for the clutch fork..i just took it to a repair shop they charged me like 10 bucks ?

DupermanDave

So how long does this usually take? Could it be done in a dedicated weekend? I've done one clutch where I had to drain fluid out of the driveshaft. That was a pain. I'd also drain the t-case fluids because those need changed.

Doesnt sounds that hard to do. I've done it once during a cold winter here in colorado, and it took 3 days with help from my dad. But I think I could do it on my own this time.

-edit-
found this to be a little helpful: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...enance/clutch/

He doesnt list tools he used though to pull off the bearings. I have needlenose vice grips. Are those the same thing used to pull out the bearing?

davo247d

well when i did mine i went through my toyota dealer to get the clutch but im i did mine in july and im only 16, I just followed the manual but after a while i kinda thought it was pretty self explainitory

here are the pictures i took when i was doing it, i have a video on my youtube page of me lowering the transmition if you want ot look at that but its really boring


you have to just take the fan shroud off


then remove you shift lever

[IMG]http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Davo247d/PICT0200.jpg
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thats when there removed


remove exahst bracket

i know im missing a few steps its because i got carried away and forgot to take pictures just stick with your manual


slowly getting it to come off


the transmition being supported


ok i have the trans,and t-case held up by straps so i could get it balenced on the jack (very slow and scary prosses) a ratchet strap makes it easyer


the trans balenced BE CAREFUL TO NOT TO TIP IT OVER!!!!

[IMG]http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Davo247d/PICT0213.jpg
[/IMG]
it out of the way and carefully move there


and a clear veiw of the clutch and the royal pain in the but it was to get to it

This is just what i did to get my clutch replaced and it just an exsample of one way you can do it.Like i said before there are several steps missing so keep to you manual.I will not be resonsible for any damage you have done to your vehicle or yourself when doing this.

DupermanDave

Seems pretty straightforward. Only thing I'm worried about is stripping bolts. That would be a pain to fix, as I've never done that successfully.

Seeing as how my truck is already liften, I should be abel to fit comfotably underneathe it. Should be a quick job, but I'll need to borrow my parent's garage again for this.

What else should I expect to do? How long does it take to resurface a flywheel? anything else I should do (parts that need resurfacing or remanufactured?) I never resurfaced my flywheel on my suzuki and never had a problem. There's lots of things I didnt do and ended up being fine.

Tubbyfatty

The only thing that slowed me down when i did mine was the pilot bearing, mine was in pieces, outter race was stuck on the crank. the regular autozone puller didnt work so i had to use a different one.

It takes a day to resurface the flywheel. Maybe a few hours if they arent busy. Resurfacing the flywheel is important. Dont skip that. If theres cracks, get a new one.

I went over kill and got new flywheel bolts from toyota just to be on the safe side lol. Dont forget to remove the shifters too haha. Make sure when you get a new clutch, you get a kit, new everything.

DupermanDave

How did the autozone puller not work? Was it too big to fit in the bearing? When we rented the tool, it was too big, so we had to grind away a little metal (it was barely too big). It fit fine after that and it worked great.

I'm going to get a new shifter socket and joint, so I'll definitely do that.

yoterr

yeah you might as well get the marlin socket and shifter seat. (best 10 bucks ive ever spent) and ive heard the autozone puller being a hair to big like you said, but i didint pull my pilot cuz it looked like it was new?? and i read that in the manual too, but dont understand it, why would you take the fan shroud off???? im at a loss for that one, i also have a 3" body lift. makes things a TON easier

davo247d

well you take the fan shroud off because the engine moves up and down when your trying to pull the transmition, i didnt drain anything wich ithough made it really easy adn bleederdudes got a really good video on how to take the pilot bearing out chick it out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuR7T8G1Ys

davo247d

its the way i did mine

DupermanDave

I don't see why removing the fan shroud/radiator would help, but I may do it anyway while I'm waiting for the flywheel to be resurfaced. I need to replace that darn hood latch cable that broke a year ago.

This might be too picky, but what socket sizes will I be needing? I have a full socket set, but I want to know what to prepare for. Also, how long/how many extensions would be needed to make the job easier?

basically I'm setting up my shopping list so I know what to buy next time I'm at autozone. I need to borrow a lot of tools from my dad, and I'd like to avoid that (don't want his toold getting mixed up with mine. Makes cleanup a lot easier)

fitzman62

i never have taken of the fan shroud when doing a clutch

davo247d

i guess the only reason i did mine it was 3 bolts (missing one) and the manual said so, so idk lol

yoterr

lol your suppose to put a jackstand under the motor so it doesent move, or like me i used a ratchet strap on the backside engine puller hook, and went over the cap to the inside bed rail and ratcheted tight and thats a good idea, ive seen the grease method done, but thats messy...good job bleader dude

shepherd2111

Just replaced mine. Finished yesterday. Got it from carstuff.com was about 180 bucks for the kit for a 98 tacoma 2.7 lt. (pres. plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and ali tool. ) looked to be well made. (AutoCom was the make, its a Seco clutch plate) It was like a $300 kit on sale. Get yourself about a 3 ft. extension with a universal and you can reach the top bolt on the driver side. ( depending on which tranny you have) Mine has 3 bolts plus 2 on the starter and 2 on a exhaust brace. With that big silly ext. you can reach straight in from the back of the tranny after the trans. case is off and get to that bolt.
As for special tools, I had a Haynes manual, and some ratchets and wrenches. As for the pilot bearing.... didnt have a puller.... fill the hole in the middle of the bearing with grease and get a steel rod slightly smaller then the hole in the bearing ( so it dosent jam in the hole I used a steel 3\8 dowel pin about 3 inches long) and smack it with a hammer. The grease will force it out. May have to fill it up a couple times.
Just dont smack it too awful hard, the pin stops on the back of the crank and that grease is under pressure.

shepherd2111

What does anyone have to say about Royal Purple 75w90 for the tranny and trans. case oil. Is it as good as it claims to be..... Is it worth 15 bucks a quart for 4 quarts.. ?

Tubbyfatty

I hear its good stuff but make sure its GL4

I put some Redline MT-90 in my tranny and it smothed out the shiftes so much. It wasnt bad before but its just so nice now, and its full synthetic so its going to last.

korn111685

you dont need a tranny jack, unbolt the t-case from the trans. makes it very light.. remove t case, then remove tranny. i did my tranny install w/o any help and basic tools.

but for safty sake.. you can use a jack.