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clutch pedal HITS FLOOR....news at 11

Old 01-12-2009, 10:07 PM
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clutch pedal HITS FLOOR....news at 11 ! SOLVED !

so, i finally sell my 86 4x4, and while the new owner is pulling out of my parking space, my 88 4x4 doesn't go anywhere...

the clutch pedal "pops" and hits the floor and stays there...
i pull it back up w/a snap, click and try again...starts normal, then pops back to the floor.

upon looking, the slave cylinder behind it (inside the cab) wobbles, and looks like it would work if i could keep it connected to the pedal itself.

Deathcouger did look, and said it was leaking, but i thought it was from me spraying pbblaster on it to keep a squeek at bay..

my question...
1. how easy is it to replace,
2. time it should take
3. should i just send it into a shop (b/c work is keeping me there all day, and i really do need the truck on a daily basis...no more vacation left)..

pix can show if needed...
thanks for any help

Last edited by idanity; 01-13-2009 at 07:16 PM.
Old 01-12-2009, 11:06 PM
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The one on the other side of the firewall from the pedal is the clutch master cylinder...
a new one (marlin crawler, AISIN SEKO all the way) is like 70.

1, If you can change your alternator belt and turn a wrench, very simple.
2, 1 hour with the bleeding process...make sure to bench bleed the master cylinder.
3, no.



Old 01-12-2009, 11:27 PM
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Scuba...thank you very much.

i've done so much w/cars, i know i can do this..i am just discouraged b/c of the early nights..(its completely black at 5pm here, and i dont get home till 7pm...and darkness sucks (especially when bleeding brake fluids)

so, i can unbolt it from inside the cabin, b/c i didn't really see any bolts, and in the engine bay, i didn't see anything...(it was raining / pouring, so i didnt crawl under the truck yet)..

.i need
-master cylinder
-brake fluid...
no other parts/ stuff...? (to be sure i have it all)
the pedal, or clutch shaft looks like it broke from each other..
:?: how do they connect to each other...the shaft is sloppy now, wobbles everywhere, and the pedal has what looks like linkeage holes but i cannot see what hits what and theres no broken bolt or nut on the floorboard :?:

pix tomarrow..thanks for any more help...(btw, the person i sold my 86 to is really cool, and will be an asset to this forum soon)...
Old 01-13-2009, 09:22 AM
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This should help some.....

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/clutch.html
Old 01-13-2009, 09:48 AM
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Do me a favor, get under there and take a pic of the pedal "pole" going back to the firewall, It could just be disconected.....Thought about that after I got off of YOTATECH last night...



Last edited by scuba; 01-13-2009 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Other memebers have their minds in the gutters
Old 01-13-2009, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by scuba
\Thought about that after I got off last night...
eew...
Old 01-13-2009, 10:11 AM
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Knew that was coming...;


Not necessary boy...



Old 01-13-2009, 11:43 AM
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^^^ lol
Old 01-13-2009, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by scuba
Do me a favor, get under there and take a pic of the pedal "pole" going back to the firewall, It could just be disconected.....Thought about that after I got off of YOTATECH last night...


Making knuckle children? Icky
Old 01-13-2009, 12:06 PM
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FWIW, on my RX-7, I have to bleed it with compressed air forced into the master cyl reservoir lid (through the vent hole).

Any air bubbles in the line compress enough to not force any liquid out the bleeder valve, if I try to bleed the clutch like you would bleed the brakes.
Old 01-13-2009, 12:11 PM
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if the pedal separated from the "shaft", i fail to see the connection to any leaking fluid unless when it broke apart, it pushed that shaft at a weird angle. the shaft attached to the pedal via a pin with a cotter pin. it's very simple. let us know what you find
Old 01-13-2009, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by drguitarum2005
if the pedal separated from the "shaft", i fail to see the connection to any leaking fluid unless when it broke apart, it pushed that shaft at a weird angle. the shaft attached to the pedal via a pin with a cotter pin. it's very simple. let us know what you find

Thats what I got to thinking about, Maybe the cotter pin came lose..


Old 01-13-2009, 06:29 PM
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i think i can see the issue...

is that link simply unscrewed ?

its so dark out there (and was wet) ..i just got home, and snapped a few pix.
i can not see a thing, and only the flash cought this..is my issue the shaft just unscrewed itself b/c it must be leaking...(if it was pbblaster, it would be everywhere else too..right)...


or, is this common, and i should replace that part pronto...(i sort of plan on doing it Saturday or Friday morning before work ...)...
if i buy a new master cylinder, would i be able to prime it simply..(never done it out of the cars i fixed yet..it was advised, but not sure how yet)...

Last edited by idanity; 01-13-2009 at 06:32 PM.
Old 01-13-2009, 06:38 PM
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yes it just cam unscrewed. take the pin out and screw the end back on. the nut is supposed to lock it but it apparenltly didn't hold. This is an adjustment item so make sure you adjust it correctly.
Old 01-13-2009, 06:43 PM
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Ok lets talk hypothetically for this first sentence or paragraph.

The U type bracket [Part of "female"] ( Yet more straight in real life) should be connected to the male part...And it looks to me like the rust has taken its toll and seperated the two after years of corrosion.


Now, You could find a buddy with a welder, and the problem would be solved in 3 seconds (literally), Get some duct tape (more of a fix..), Or get a new one and complete the repair...

EDIT: If that is a nut at the end of "male" Take it off put the "female" U bracket on and then put the nut back on, Thank you Toyminator



Last edited by scuba; 01-13-2009 at 06:45 PM.
Old 01-13-2009, 06:44 PM
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wow..
now i look closer and see just where the nut should be...(the clean threads... )
and i will try to reuse the cotter pin until i get the new one..

still a good idea to replace that..?
did i get lucky, or an "omen" of its inevitable fail...(the leak, which i thought was pbblaster)


AND I GOT DUCT TAPE like NONE OTHER...


i will try to re-thread it, but if that fails, its getting "ducted"...and a new one this friday..
woot-woot.

Last edited by idanity; 01-13-2009 at 06:46 PM.
Old 01-13-2009, 06:52 PM
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See thats the thing, the nut should be on the inside of the U, Holding the U to the I...(does that make sense)..Unless the U broke off at the bottom (which it doesnt look like) of it, it should be attached, get at it, and let me know what you find..


EDIT: Now that I think about it, I think there are 2 nuts, take the one off of the male and go to an ace and get another one, PROBLEM SOLVED.

Old 01-13-2009, 07:14 PM
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i found out i can cut my knuckles up doing it..

but it did screw right back into the block/ or "female" housing..

it does look like it should go in further (to the clean threads) but that nut is on there..(its bigger than a 10mm btw)

and i just turned it into the block again, and used some pliers to secure it, tested it and all feels normal agian.

THANKS EVERYONE...i should've found that.
but
i will replace it this weekend anyways, and no duct tape was needed (yet)...
what are the odds of this happening right when i sell the "backup truck"...
i am glad its rolling again, it just killed me yesturday, b/c i went from 2 great trucks to none in less than a minute..


well.
Problem solved...
Old 01-13-2009, 07:23 PM
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So your going to replace the actual master cylinder??
and NP for the help..


Old 01-13-2009, 07:34 PM
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yes...
got one on order at NIx99...

spacejunk...omg... sonasty


it was so easy, im surprised it didn't fix itself overnight...
and Scuba, Toyminator2000, drguitarum2005, winsdor, thook....."all hail"...

Last edited by idanity; 01-13-2009 at 07:35 PM.

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