shortysboy09

I have a clicking noise that sounds like it's coming from my air intake. I just installed a new intake on the truck last week and it still is making the noise. It's a steady click that is in a rhythm. Any help would be appreciated.

3vzePower

What motor? How fast is the clicking -- is it in time with the motor rpms?

dirtoyboy

What happened to your old intake?

Are you installing a stock replacement or aftermarket?

shortysboy09

It is the 3.0 V6 automatic Trans. I would say it is in time with the RPMs. Sorta sounds like it worsens as the motor heats up also.

shortysboy09

The old intake had the airbox drilled from the bottom by some retard. Why would you drill holes in the bottom of all places? Seems like if you ran through a puddle water would get to your filter. I put on a aftermarket intake because I could'nt find a stock replacement for it. I have just started on this truck and don't know anything about it's history. But, I do know someone cut a lot of corners with this rig.

shortysboy09

Bump,

Anyone got any ideas on this?

abecedarian

Fuel injectors clicking?

iamsuperbleeder

Can the fuel injectors really be that loud? I started noticing the same thing after I took off, cleaned, and reinstalled my intake... never noticed it before, but now it's audible and almost sounds like a tapping valve, lol... maybe that's all it is... or could be the 284K miles on the truck...

Sonofmayhem

Exhaust leak?

iamsuperbleeder

from the intake?

maybe EGR valve leak possibly...

abecedarian

I've owned a few fuel injected cars including an '84 Chrysler Laser Turbo, a '91 Toy p'up with 22re and a '78 VW bus. All of them had noticible noise from the injectors. Until I got familiar with the noise, I thought they all had various issues ranging from exhaust leaks to mis-adjusted valves.
I'm not saying that the injectors are the source of your noise, but they are one of those innocuous parts that make noise when they are working properly. You could make a poor-man's-stethoscope and check the noise: get a long screwdriver, ratchet extension or solid steel bar and place one end on an injector and the other end on your ear and see if the noise you hear through the 'stethoscope' matches the same interval as the clicking.
You can use that same trick to locate the source of almost any 'hard' noise in the engine- just watch out for moving parts.

iamsuperbleeder

good tip, lol

most of the time when someone give that lil bit of advice, they speak from experience...

abecedarian

Well... I've used that 'stethoscope' trick to ferret out worn rocker arm bushings on an engine... and having that little bar pounding your head because you were dumb enough to put it on the end of the rocker arm as opposed to the rocker shaft teaches you a lesson pretty quick: a mistake I made only once. LOL

sleaz22xx

ouch!!!!!!

Pistonman

Broomhandle cut to the desired length.

abecedarian

Moving parts does not always mean belts and fan blades.

As for broom handles- they work ok for lower pitched 'knocking' sounds like rod bearings and the like, but don't conduct higher pitched sounds or 'clicks' from loose valves and injectors as well as steel.

infiltrator

I have a ticking noise and asked my local mechanic about it. He said it was the injectors.

Also the holes below the airbox allow for the engine to breathe better (made for people who don't go driving in water too much)
Someone did a write-up that you might wanna see too.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f130...-engine-75127/

abecedarian

Theoretically, the combined cross-section areas of all the holes into the airbox may allow more air into the airbox, but the whole system is restricted by the cross-section of the afm/maf, intake ducting and throttle body. You can drill all the holes you want in the airbox, but if you can't get that extra air into the engine because of restrictions upstream it means nothing other than the heaviest particles in the air stream will not get sucked into the filter due to a lower intake air-stream velocity.
There are fairly complicated calculations relating to air flow volume versus velocity that come into play. <- one of the reasons that swapping the AFM and filter with the battery is effective on 22RE's and why 'velocity stacks' work well on older carb'ed engines.