Cheapest Knock Sensor Fix. Code 52
05-30-2012, 04:06 PM
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My Cheapest Knock Sensor Fix. Code 52
Rig Info
1993 4x4 5spd Toyota Pickup Ext Cab. v6 3vze 3.0l
210,000 miles w/ new headgasket, etc.
The following information are from my experiences, so if you break your engine its not my fault.
Anyway Some Background
I got the dreaded code 52 on my truck when I first got it. I am pretty mechanically inclined.. I have moved over here from the mr2oc boards. I've had a 93 acura integra gsr, 4 mr2 turbos, a 1987 4runner, and now I am currently with my truck. I have always worked on my own cars and others cars from basic maintenance to motor swaps
I have gotten lazy over the years and I seriously did not want to remove the intake plenum just to get to the knock sensor... so I took some knowledge from the mr2 boards and applied it on my truck. I also did not want to pay the ridiculous price for the OEM Toyota sensor.
A company named ATS racing (atsracing.net) who is widely respected among the mr2 crowds sells a GM knock sensor kit for the 3sgte in the mr2 turbo. It comes with a pigtail, and standard to metric adapter and screws directly into the block.
**Because of the location of the knock sensor on the 3vze, the ATS adapter would probably make the sensor too tall to fit. (I say probably, because I never actually took my intake mani off LOL)
Application
I took that idea and tried that style 1 wire gm knock sensor on the 3vze. I used a bracket I found in my garage and bolted the sensor to my head.
The 3vz has 2 wires going to the oem toyota knock sensor. I attached the signal wire to the one wire on the knock sensor and grounded the other.
Controversy
I am not sure which gm knock sensor ATS racing actually uses, however I do understand knock sensors are tuned to the specific bore size of the engine.
..........3vze Iron Block
Bore: 87.5mm= 3.44in
Stroke: 82mm = 3.22in
..........Closest Chevy Match?
Late 90s (94+) 2.2L L4 iron block engines which came in Cavaliers and S10s.
Bore: 89mm=3.5in
The benefits of using a GM knock sensor in the turbocharged world was that they were less prone to breakage from knock, unlike toyota sensors. And they are CHEAP!!! unlike toyota sensors
However, using a GM Knock sensor tuned to a larger bore engine would also mean it is Less Sensitive to knock, which could potentially mean your engine can knock and the ecu won't pick it up.
/SO....................... .... . .. .
-My check engine light/ code 52 is no longer present.
-GM knock sensors sell brand new from $15-$30 and are readily available in junk yards lol
-You would also want to buy the gm sensor pigtail which is also cheap and readily available.
-Oh, and on a side note, my idiot self accidentally ordered the V6 s10 pickup knock sensor which is closer to a 4in bore... WOOPS.
But, my light is gone, power is back, and gas mileage is up! BTW, I got it for $25 shipped.
Dangerous or genius... its your call.
1993 4x4 5spd Toyota Pickup Ext Cab. v6 3vze 3.0l
210,000 miles w/ new headgasket, etc.
The following information are from my experiences, so if you break your engine its not my fault.
Anyway Some Background
I got the dreaded code 52 on my truck when I first got it. I am pretty mechanically inclined.. I have moved over here from the mr2oc boards. I've had a 93 acura integra gsr, 4 mr2 turbos, a 1987 4runner, and now I am currently with my truck. I have always worked on my own cars and others cars from basic maintenance to motor swaps
I have gotten lazy over the years and I seriously did not want to remove the intake plenum just to get to the knock sensor... so I took some knowledge from the mr2 boards and applied it on my truck. I also did not want to pay the ridiculous price for the OEM Toyota sensor.
A company named ATS racing (atsracing.net) who is widely respected among the mr2 crowds sells a GM knock sensor kit for the 3sgte in the mr2 turbo. It comes with a pigtail, and standard to metric adapter and screws directly into the block.
**Because of the location of the knock sensor on the 3vze, the ATS adapter would probably make the sensor too tall to fit. (I say probably, because I never actually took my intake mani off LOL)
Application
I took that idea and tried that style 1 wire gm knock sensor on the 3vze. I used a bracket I found in my garage and bolted the sensor to my head.
The 3vz has 2 wires going to the oem toyota knock sensor. I attached the signal wire to the one wire on the knock sensor and grounded the other.
Controversy
I am not sure which gm knock sensor ATS racing actually uses, however I do understand knock sensors are tuned to the specific bore size of the engine.
..........3vze Iron Block
Bore: 87.5mm= 3.44in
Stroke: 82mm = 3.22in
..........Closest Chevy Match?
Late 90s (94+) 2.2L L4 iron block engines which came in Cavaliers and S10s.
Bore: 89mm=3.5in
The benefits of using a GM knock sensor in the turbocharged world was that they were less prone to breakage from knock, unlike toyota sensors. And they are CHEAP!!! unlike toyota sensors
However, using a GM Knock sensor tuned to a larger bore engine would also mean it is Less Sensitive to knock, which could potentially mean your engine can knock and the ecu won't pick it up.
/SO....................... .... . .. .
-My check engine light/ code 52 is no longer present.
-GM knock sensors sell brand new from $15-$30 and are readily available in junk yards lol
-You would also want to buy the gm sensor pigtail which is also cheap and readily available.
-Oh, and on a side note, my idiot self accidentally ordered the V6 s10 pickup knock sensor which is closer to a 4in bore... WOOPS.
But, my light is gone, power is back, and gas mileage is up! BTW, I got it for $25 shipped.Dangerous or genius... its your call.
Last edited by Toy3sgte; 05-30-2012 at 04:10 PM.
05-30-2012, 04:32 PM
#2
To the best of my knowledge...Toyota knock sensors(atleast those used on the 3VZ-E) almost never fail(and certainly never fail from knock...WTF?). The real issue with code 52 is almost always due to degradation of the knock sensor wire(pigtail), and/or corrosion of the connectors on it. Most folks that end up replacing the knock sensor itself(whether or not they also replace the pigtail), still end up with code 52. Because...like I said...that's almost never where the problem really is.
Dangerous? Maybe.
Genius? Certainly not.
Lazy? For sure.
Dangerous? Maybe.
Genius? Certainly not.
Lazy? For sure.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-30-2012 at 04:36 PM.
05-30-2012, 04:44 PM
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I stated that on the 3sgte TURBO engines they fail from knock. Never said anything bout the 3vze knock sensors failing from knock, since knocking is much less on a Naturally Aspirated motor 
05-30-2012, 08:48 PM
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if you have seen my post i am also battling the code 52. i ran a ground strap to the ecu and managed to get the code to go away for almost 100 miles then it came back. i would be willing to try anything to get rid of this problem it was the best 100 miles i have had with this 4runner.
05-31-2012, 04:12 PM
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Do you know for sure the knock sensors you are using are good? Save yourself the headache of tearing apart and reinstalling the intake mani and bolt a known good sensor to the engine hook or something. At least then you'll know the sensor is good and if it is good you can install it in the correct location if you wish to.
Does code 52 pop up even after starting the vehicle when its warm and at operating temp?
I mounted mine to the drivers side head.
Does code 52 pop up even after starting the vehicle when its warm and at operating temp?
I mounted mine to the drivers side head.
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08-03-2016, 04:48 AM
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Where to put it
I have gotten lazy over the years and I seriously did not want to remove the intake plenum just to get to the knock sensor... so I took some knowledge from the mr2 boards and applied it on my truck. I also did not want to pay the ridiculous price for the OEM Toyota sensor.
A company named ATS racing (atsracing.net) who is widely respected among the mr2 crowds sells a GM knock sensor kit for the 3sgte in the mr2 turbo. It comes with a pigtail, and standard to metric adapter and screws directly into the block.
**Because of the location of the knock sensor on the 3vze, the ATS adapter would probably make the sensor too tall to fit. (I say probably, because I never actually took my intake mani off LOL)
Application
I took that idea and tried that style 1 wire gm knock sensor on the 3vze. I used a bracket I found in my garage and bolted the sensor to my head.
The 3vz has 2 wires going to the oem toyota knock sensor. I attached the signal wire to the one wire on the knock sensor and grounded the other.
Controversy
I am not sure which gm knock sensor ATS racing actually uses, however I do understand knock sensors are tuned to the specific bore size of the engine.
..........3vze Iron Block
Bore: 87.5mm= 3.44in
Stroke: 82mm = 3.22in
..........Closest Chevy Match?
Late 90s (94+) 2.2L L4 iron block engines which came in Cavaliers and S10s.
Bore: 89mm=3.5in
The benefits of using a GM knock sensor in the turbocharged world was that they were less prone to breakage from knock, unlike toyota sensors. And they are CHEAP!!! unlike toyota sensors
However, using a GM Knock sensor tuned to a larger bore engine would also mean it is Less Sensitive to knock, which could potentially mean your engine can knock and the ecu won't pick it up.
/SO....................... .... . .. .
-My check engine light/ code 52 is no longer present.
-GM knock sensors sell brand new from $15-$30 and are readily available in junk yards lol
-You would also want to buy the gm sensor pigtail which is also cheap and readily available.
-Oh, and on a side note, my idiot self accidentally ordered the V6 s10 pickup knock sensor which is closer to a 4in bore... WOOPS. But, my light is gone, power is back, and gas mileage is up! BTW, I got it for $25 shipped.
Some time later is it still running and lite off ? I am thinking on the side of head at the lifting lug ? did you use this location
A company named ATS racing (atsracing.net) who is widely respected among the mr2 crowds sells a GM knock sensor kit for the 3sgte in the mr2 turbo. It comes with a pigtail, and standard to metric adapter and screws directly into the block.
**Because of the location of the knock sensor on the 3vze, the ATS adapter would probably make the sensor too tall to fit. (I say probably, because I never actually took my intake mani off LOL)
Application
I took that idea and tried that style 1 wire gm knock sensor on the 3vze. I used a bracket I found in my garage and bolted the sensor to my head.
The 3vz has 2 wires going to the oem toyota knock sensor. I attached the signal wire to the one wire on the knock sensor and grounded the other.
Controversy
I am not sure which gm knock sensor ATS racing actually uses, however I do understand knock sensors are tuned to the specific bore size of the engine.
..........3vze Iron Block
Bore: 87.5mm= 3.44in
Stroke: 82mm = 3.22in
..........Closest Chevy Match?
Late 90s (94+) 2.2L L4 iron block engines which came in Cavaliers and S10s.
Bore: 89mm=3.5in
The benefits of using a GM knock sensor in the turbocharged world was that they were less prone to breakage from knock, unlike toyota sensors. And they are CHEAP!!! unlike toyota sensors
However, using a GM Knock sensor tuned to a larger bore engine would also mean it is Less Sensitive to knock, which could potentially mean your engine can knock and the ecu won't pick it up.
/SO....................... .... . .. .
-My check engine light/ code 52 is no longer present.
-GM knock sensors sell brand new from $15-$30 and are readily available in junk yards lol
-You would also want to buy the gm sensor pigtail which is also cheap and readily available.
-Oh, and on a side note, my idiot self accidentally ordered the V6 s10 pickup knock sensor which is closer to a 4in bore... WOOPS.
But, my light is gone, power is back, and gas mileage is up! BTW, I got it for $25 shipped.Some time later is it still running and lite off ? I am thinking on the side of head at the lifting lug ? did you use this location
08-03-2016, 10:29 AM
#11
I doubt it. Plus this is a really old thread. Just going to add some info to it since you already dug it up. The 3VZE knock sensor rarely fails, but the connector on the sensor does, as well as the pig tail running through the block. Mine has also had the connector from the harness to the pigtail break. If I were you, I'd check all three of those things.
EDIT: to answer your own question, usually people tap a hole into the lift hook and place it there. GLHF!
EDIT: to answer your own question, usually people tap a hole into the lift hook and place it there. GLHF!
Last edited by 128keaton; 08-03-2016 at 10:31 AM.
08-03-2016, 04:39 PM
#12
I would definitely not recomend this mod to any one unless it was maybe a trail rig with two tires in the grave yard. Yes pulling the upper manifold can be a pain but it's not that bad. While it's off do plugs and possibly injector cleaning or upgrade and call it a day. Knock sensors are there to protect the engine and are tuned by the manufacture to be with in a given range. By altering one you leave a lot to chance and could be putting your engines life at chance.
08-03-2016, 09:26 PM
#13
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QUOTE "Dangerous or genius... its your call. "
I'll say inventive. Maybe reckless. I don't know.
Wouldn't do it on an 88 model with 110,000 miles on it but might try it on an old engine in a rusty truck that was overdue for a rebuild.
I'd seriously like to hear a story about the sensor saving someone's engine though. Not at all sarcastic here. I just have no idea how often the ECM makes adjustments based on the senor's feedback. I have read tons of posts about pigtail failures resulting in top end teardowns and electrical / vacuum leak issues after putting them back together but never one praising the sensor for doing it's thing.
"I'll say inventive. Maybe reckless. I don't know.
Wouldn't do it on an 88 model with 110,000 miles on it but might try it on an old engine in a rusty truck that was overdue for a rebuild.
I'd seriously like to hear a story about the sensor saving someone's engine though. Not at all sarcastic here. I just have no idea how often the ECM makes adjustments based on the senor's feedback. I have read tons of posts about pigtail failures resulting in top end teardowns and electrical / vacuum leak issues after putting them back together but never one praising the sensor for doing it's thing.
08-04-2016, 03:30 AM
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Headers and Knock sensor
[QUOTE=128keaton;52329951]I doubt it. Plus this is a really old thread. Just going to add some info to it since you already dug it up. The 3VZE knock sensor rarely fails, but the connector on the sensor does, as well as the pig tail running through the block. Mine has also had the connector from the harness to the pigtail break. If I were you, I'd check all three of those things.
Yes I agree its the connector I get same ACV of the ground and the input wire .I tired both together even to get some results ..
Well I only get the light to come on in second if I run up my speed into 3 rd or 4 th gear no light ( I have to turn off my motor then back on to clear code) but i can run down the hwy,no problem .
I thin it some type of combo of headers that set off the harmonics must be just right..
I did have a friend had his ladder rack set it off on a ford .
thanks for your reply ..
Yes I agree its the connector I get same ACV of the ground and the input wire .I tired both together even to get some results ..
Well I only get the light to come on in second if I run up my speed into 3 rd or 4 th gear no light ( I have to turn off my motor then back on to clear code) but i can run down the hwy,no problem .
I thin it some type of combo of headers that set off the harmonics must be just right..
I did have a friend had his ladder rack set it off on a ford .
thanks for your reply ..
08-16-2016, 03:26 AM
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IT works just fine
[QUOTE=Toy3sgte;51924139]Rig Info
1993 4x4 5spd Toyota Pickup Ext Cab. v6 3vze 3.0l
210,000 miles w/ new headgasket, etc.
The following information are from my experiences, so if you break your engine its not my fault.
Anyway Some Background
I got the dreaded code 52 on my truck when I first got it. I am pretty mechanically inclined.. I have moved over here from the mr2oc boards. I've had a 93 acura integra gsr, 4 mr2 turbos, a 1987 4runner, and now I am currently with my truck. I have always worked on my own cars and others cars from basic maintenance to motor swaps
I have gotten lazy over the years and I seriously did not want to remove the intake plenum just to get to the knock sensor... so I took some knowledge from the mr2 boards and applied it on my truck. I also did not want to pay the ridiculous price for the OEM Toyota sensor.
A company named ATS racing (atsracing.net) who is widely respected among the mr2 crowds sells a GM knock sensor kit for the 3sgte in the mr2 turbo. It comes with a pigtail, and standard to metric adapter and screws directly into the block.
**Because of the location of the knock sensor on the 3vze, the ATS adapter would probably make the sensor too tall to fit. (I say probably, because I never actually took my intake mani off LOL)
Application
Bought on line from them and mounted it side on head driver side the adapter will not work I couldn't find a place to mount so I made on out brass .............
Have to have some metric tap/ dies NO MORE LIGHT runs great
1993 4x4 5spd Toyota Pickup Ext Cab. v6 3vze 3.0l
210,000 miles w/ new headgasket, etc.
The following information are from my experiences, so if you break your engine its not my fault.
Anyway Some Background
I got the dreaded code 52 on my truck when I first got it. I am pretty mechanically inclined.. I have moved over here from the mr2oc boards. I've had a 93 acura integra gsr, 4 mr2 turbos, a 1987 4runner, and now I am currently with my truck. I have always worked on my own cars and others cars from basic maintenance to motor swaps
I have gotten lazy over the years and I seriously did not want to remove the intake plenum just to get to the knock sensor... so I took some knowledge from the mr2 boards and applied it on my truck. I also did not want to pay the ridiculous price for the OEM Toyota sensor.
A company named ATS racing (atsracing.net) who is widely respected among the mr2 crowds sells a GM knock sensor kit for the 3sgte in the mr2 turbo. It comes with a pigtail, and standard to metric adapter and screws directly into the block.
**Because of the location of the knock sensor on the 3vze, the ATS adapter would probably make the sensor too tall to fit. (I say probably, because I never actually took my intake mani off LOL)
Application
Bought on line from them and mounted it side on head driver side the adapter will not work I couldn't find a place to mount so I made on out brass .............
Have to have some metric tap/ dies NO MORE LIGHT runs great
08-22-2016, 05:42 PM
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I would definitely not recomend this mod to any one unless it was maybe a trail rig with two tires in the grave yard. Yes pulling the upper manifold can be a pain but it's not that bad. While it's off do plugs and possibly injector cleaning or upgrade and call it a day. Knock sensors are there to protect the engine and are tuned by the manufacture to be with in a given range. By altering one you leave a lot to chance and could be putting your engines life at chance.
08-31-2016, 08:56 AM
#18
Pros:
* better MPG
* doesn't run rich
* ECU controls the engine
Cons:
* no idea about longevity.
Last edited by 128keaton; 08-31-2016 at 08:59 AM.
03-06-2017, 06:45 AM
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2017 March ...Keep people up to date Knock back after pulling my R pad back in the back woods . the rad was rough and muffler now shifted causing light to show again .. got get under the truck and reset the muffler .
