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Changing fuel pump

Old 11-28-2011, 07:23 AM
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Changing fuel pump

Im going to change my fuel pump this week and was wondering if I should also change the fuel sending unit? The fuel gauge works, but everytime I go to the gas station and fill up, it takes a while for the needle to hit the full mark.Is this normal?
Old 11-28-2011, 07:27 AM
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mine takes a while too, but those things go bad quite frequently. Pricey little buggers too, depending on which one you have.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:29 AM
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have you changed yours?
Old 11-28-2011, 07:32 AM
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No, but I did have to fix the electrical connections on the top of it. Wasn't about to pay for the price of a new one, if mine wasn't broke. Depending on which one there is no aftermarket alternative to it. And the dealer wanted like $90 for one on mine. Just be prepared depending on where you live those studs that you have to take off might snap due to rust.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:34 AM
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As long as the fuel gauge is reasonably accurate, you might as well leave it in there.
FWIW, the gauge takes a little bit of time to climb to the full mark on my '88
Old 11-28-2011, 07:36 AM
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How did you fix the electrical connections?
Old 11-28-2011, 07:39 AM
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Somewhere in my build thread, I put it up, I just re-soldered the top connections as they were rusted apart not making contact. My gauge showed empty with no connections, the first time I did it, I musta grounded it out so it showed full.

BTW my problem isn't the typical problem, just shows one issue with them in a rust belt, the other has to to with the resistor. That problem IIRC usually shows half tank even when full and then drops to empty as normal when you reach half tank.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:47 AM
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Thanks guys
Old 11-28-2011, 08:11 AM
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The fuel level is slow to rise. Being in this part of the country, you proably have some condesation that caused a bunch of rust. The sending level just needs to be pulled and cleaned. I am sure on a 94 you need to pull the tank to get to it. Dont have to for a fuel pump. There is an acess panel under the rear passenger seat.

As far as electrical connections, you probably need to just solder them.
Old 11-28-2011, 11:11 AM
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Save yourself hours of time, and forget about dropping the fuel tank. Remove your passenger rear bottom seat cover, and you will see an access panel with 3 screws holding it down. This is just above the fuel pump, but will not quite allow the pump assembly to come out through it. I took tin snips, and snipped out an oval a little wider as needed at the same location just above the pump, bent the sheet metal back, and was able to remove the lines from the pump, and pull it through the floor within 20 minutes total. Once done, I then bent the sheet metal back down, jb welded the cuts, bolted the original cover back on, and covered it with the carpet. The area is under the seat, and will never get any weight on it, so no worries about the cut out / repaired patch. I found this tip here on yotatech and it saved me hours of frustration, rusted bolts, gas leaks, broken gas lines, etc...
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