Changing fuel pump
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Southwest Arkansas
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Changing fuel pump
Im going to change my fuel pump this week and was wondering if I should also change the fuel sending unit? The fuel gauge works, but everytime I go to the gas station and fill up, it takes a while for the needle to hit the full mark.Is this normal?
#4
Registered User
No, but I did have to fix the electrical connections on the top of it. Wasn't about to pay for the price of a new one, if mine wasn't broke. Depending on which one there is no aftermarket alternative to it. And the dealer wanted like $90 for one on mine. Just be prepared depending on where you live those studs that you have to take off might snap due to rust.
#5
As long as the fuel gauge is reasonably accurate, you might as well leave it in there.
FWIW, the gauge takes a little bit of time to climb to the full mark on my '88
FWIW, the gauge takes a little bit of time to climb to the full mark on my '88
#7
Registered User
Somewhere in my build thread, I put it up, I just re-soldered the top connections as they were rusted apart not making contact. My gauge showed empty with no connections, the first time I did it, I musta grounded it out so it showed full.
BTW my problem isn't the typical problem, just shows one issue with them in a rust belt, the other has to to with the resistor. That problem IIRC usually shows half tank even when full and then drops to empty as normal when you reach half tank.
BTW my problem isn't the typical problem, just shows one issue with them in a rust belt, the other has to to with the resistor. That problem IIRC usually shows half tank even when full and then drops to empty as normal when you reach half tank.
Trending Topics
#9
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
The fuel level is slow to rise. Being in this part of the country, you proably have some condesation that caused a bunch of rust. The sending level just needs to be pulled and cleaned. I am sure on a 94 you need to pull the tank to get to it. Dont have to for a fuel pump. There is an acess panel under the rear passenger seat.
As far as electrical connections, you probably need to just solder them.
As far as electrical connections, you probably need to just solder them.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Save yourself hours of time, and forget about dropping the fuel tank. Remove your passenger rear bottom seat cover, and you will see an access panel with 3 screws holding it down. This is just above the fuel pump, but will not quite allow the pump assembly to come out through it. I took tin snips, and snipped out an oval a little wider as needed at the same location just above the pump, bent the sheet metal back, and was able to remove the lines from the pump, and pull it through the floor within 20 minutes total. Once done, I then bent the sheet metal back down, jb welded the cuts, bolted the original cover back on, and covered it with the carpet. The area is under the seat, and will never get any weight on it, so no worries about the cut out / repaired patch. I found this tip here on yotatech and it saved me hours of frustration, rusted bolts, gas leaks, broken gas lines, etc...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
09-04-2015 09:27 AM
TURBOrunnerNM
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
07-22-2015 11:01 AM