bigt

ok im doing manual hubs and a cv today..

got the add plate off.. got a jack under the opposite rear axle and jacked up as far as i can under my a arm..

THE CV BOLTS ARE SO RUSTED my impact + torch + pb blast isnt doing it..

im gonna go out and try and find THRUST.. it works amazing

any tips??

do i need to undo a shock or can i slide it out the bottom?

help yotatechers!!

Brenjen

I like to soak my project in penetrating oil (PB blaster works great) for at least a week every day prior to my work day; that way it has time to do it's job. Everyone will give you their own take on how best to do it; some will say to un-bolt the ball joint etc. Personally all I did was unbolt the shock at the bottom & used a jack under the A-frame on the side I was working with no problems....oh I did also use a C-clamp & pop out the studs for more clearance. I suppose if you didn't do that you might need to unbolt the ball joint too.

Beaniam

will probably have to heat them with a torch and maybe break a few. Replace them with grade 8 nuts and bolts and lock washers.

JCM4x89pu

jack up the front of the truck from the front crossmember.. unbolt the 4 bolts on your lower balljoint.. unbolt your shock from the lower control arm.. push the lower control arm down and out of the way.. remove the fastner that holds your axle in from where you took off the add hub flange (should already be removed by this point).. remove the grease boots from the cvs and get ready for a greasy mess.. pull back and up on your brake rotor/spindle/steering knuckle assembly until the inner joint slides out of the differential, and put a plastic bag and rubber band around the inner joint to keep it from getting dirt on it.. then pull the outer side of the axle out of the spindle.

now you're ready to reverse the process and install the new cv. i just woke up, so i hope i didnt miss anything! let me know how it goes!

JCM4x89pu

haha! i think i missed your point... you are taking about where the inner tripod cv bolts to the diferential right?.. those bolts are always a pain in the @ss, rusted or not. so yeah, try thrust... ive never used it, but if it works for you im gonna go buy some too!

Cyberman

As a last resort, and you have the tools, use an impact hammer (air chisel) on the side of the nut to drive them loose. We did that with the very last of 12 nuts on my front diff. It took a pretty high power impact to get them off (had to go to a garage to get it done).

bigt

WOW IM CALLING NAPA NOW AND ITS SOAKING IN P.B BLAST... keep this thread rolling lots of good tips for newbs already thanks jcm that was a new way of doing it!

91diesel

I would knock the studs out of the stub axles and replace them with bolts washers and nuts. It makes taking out the axle or half shaft a breeze next time. It is also nice on the trail if you have to replace with a spare.

bigt

what size nuts and bolts?? there a 17mm socket now

Brenjen

You could do that or just go the cheap route & do what I did & grind down the splines on the stud w/ a dremmel tool. Works the same & you don't have to go buy expensive nuts & bolts. Once you pop out the studs changing the CV's gets pretty easy.

bigt

nice i just got a new dremmel and i havent had a project for it yet

BUT it sstarted raining and lightening.. so i cleaned up and put her in the garage..

coveralls are in the dryer..
then back to work on the trail beast

bigt

so is it best to jack from the under the frame or under the a arm?

Brenjen

I use jackstands to hold the vehicle up & then after unbolting the lower shock mount I use a small floor jack under the A-frame to adjust it up & down to find that "sweet spot" to remove the CV; sometimes I have to turn the steering wheel a little left or right too. It's still a p.i.t.a. but much less so than it is with the studs in place; removing the studs makes all the difference.

bigt

this might be a loing night i dont have a c clamp... ive read on another post that if i put a jack under the oppisote side rear wheel and then under the arm i might be able to get it out ill try that...

BUT I GOT THE 6 NUTS off.. gonna eat and go back at her later tonight!

THRUST WORKS BETTER THAN PB BLAST!

bigt

ok guys im really in stuck now.. how do i take 2 studs out when i only have a bench vice??? to come so close i cant put it back together till i can get it right... its almost coming out but 2 studs are in the way.. i only have undone the shock....

bigt

I Didnt It Without Removing Any Shocks Or Studs Or A Arms!!!
If You Jack The Truck Up On The Opposite Side And Then Use Another Jack As Close To The Wheel Under The Lower A Arm You Can Just Get It!!!!

just a 22re

what are you guys talking about?????? when i did my motor i had to drop my front diff thus unbolting the cvs all i did was unblot them from the diff and push them to the wheel and slide it out and yes the truck had all 4 tyres on the ground none were jacked up or anything nothing but yet again its my truck so nothing fits right

bigt

most people cant get them out without pounding studs or unbolting shocks and A arms..

NOT TRUE..just gotta jack up under the opposite wheel and then get your other jack like almost right under the rotor ..like right under the a arm and jack it up and you dont have to pound out studs i changed it in no time!!!!!!

im getting really good at fixing toyotas!!!
there fun to work on!

dirtyXplorer

yep, I changed my CVs a wile back and I did it without pounding studs or removing the A arm. I think the shock was even attached. I didnt have the right tools at the time so I didnt get to pound out any studs.

If you get the a arm in the right spot you can wiggle it out. Its kinda tricky but it can be done!

91diesel

I just knocked the studs out with a hammer, once you get them started........
of course mine was out of the truck when I did it, it's only 3 bolts.