CEL flashing
#1
CEL flashing
i have a CEL. so i put a wire between Te1 and E1 on the diagnostics connector and turn the key on and the CEL is just flashing rapidly. Its not flashing a code it's just going on and off continuously until i turn the key off.
1993 toyota pick up 22re 4x4 m/t
1993 toyota pick up 22re 4x4 m/t
#2
I'm pretty new to 4Runners but did you make sure that all your accessories are turned off first?
#4
#5
Registered User
I would check whatever fuse that feeds 12v to the DLC, maybe its blown and not allowing data output? Other than that, sounds like a ECU issue. Or maybe a knock sensor? How is the truck running?
Last edited by jb451; 12-26-2014 at 06:20 PM.
#6
I mentioned all this in another thread but it was ignored for some reason.
#7
Stay with me here, just to clarify things a little I'm going to regurgitate some information for those that might not know.
The computer in these trucks is somewhat primitive and will not delete codes by itself even if you've fixed the problem.
You have to manually clear the code otherwise the computer will store it and keep bringing it back up whenever you check the codes.
Once you manually clear the code you have to drive it then once again check for codes.
If you've done the above steps and your CEL is not illuminated during normal driving conditions and you're rechecking the codes
and it now just flashes, with no pauses, you have successfully fixed it and you're good to go.
The computer in these trucks is somewhat primitive and will not delete codes by itself even if you've fixed the problem.
You have to manually clear the code otherwise the computer will store it and keep bringing it back up whenever you check the codes.
Once you manually clear the code you have to drive it then once again check for codes.
If you've done the above steps and your CEL is not illuminated during normal driving conditions and you're rechecking the codes
and it now just flashes, with no pauses, you have successfully fixed it and you're good to go.
Last edited by Odin; 12-27-2014 at 10:20 AM.
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#8
The computer in these trucks is somewhat primitive and will not delete codes by itself even if you've fixed the problem.
You have to manually clear the code otherwise the computer will store it and keep bringing it back up whenever you check the codes.
Once you manually clear the code you have to drive it then once again check for codes.
If you've done the above steps and your CEL is not illuminated during normal driving conditions and you're rechecking the codes
and it now just flashes, with no pause, you have successfully fixed it and you're good to go.
You have to manually clear the code otherwise the computer will store it and keep bringing it back up whenever you check the codes.
Once you manually clear the code you have to drive it then once again check for codes.
If you've done the above steps and your CEL is not illuminated during normal driving conditions and you're rechecking the codes
and it now just flashes, with no pause, you have successfully fixed it and you're good to go.
After all of that I assume you now have the following problem:
You're CEL is lit up during normal driving conditions.
When you now check the code it just flashes with no pauses.
Is this all correct?
Last edited by Odin; 12-27-2014 at 05:27 AM.
#9
#10
If it was me and it was acting strange like that I'd totally disconnect the battery for about a half an hour just to make sure.
That way the computer has to relearn everything. It might start out running a little rougher than how it was but it won't take long to reset itself.
All it takes to clear the codes is removing the EFI fuse for a few minutes. In my case 5 minutes isn't enough. Maybe 10-15 minutes would work reliably. Like I mentioned in your case with the system acting weird I'd disconnect the battery and force it to reset and relearn.
That way the computer has to relearn everything. It might start out running a little rougher than how it was but it won't take long to reset itself.
All it takes to clear the codes is removing the EFI fuse for a few minutes. In my case 5 minutes isn't enough. Maybe 10-15 minutes would work reliably. Like I mentioned in your case with the system acting weird I'd disconnect the battery and force it to reset and relearn.
Last edited by Odin; 12-27-2014 at 10:45 AM.
#11
I just unplugged the efi fuse and now it's throwing code 52 again. I'm gunna try to rewire the KS. Does anybody know what color the knock sensor wire is going into the ecu?
#12
Maybe throw the link to your other thread about it up here.
I'm just wondering about a couple of things.
1. Was it replaced by a factory Knock Sensor?
If not maybe the aftermarket sensor isn't compatible with the computer. I've read about several cases like that on this board.
2. Is your new wiring correct?
I'm just wondering about a couple of things.
1. Was it replaced by a factory Knock Sensor?
If not maybe the aftermarket sensor isn't compatible with the computer. I've read about several cases like that on this board.
2. Is your new wiring correct?
Last edited by Odin; 12-27-2014 at 10:49 AM.
#13
Maybe throw the link to your other thread about it up here.
I'm just wondering about a couple of things.
1. Was it replaced by a factory Knock Sensor?
If not maybe the aftermarket sensor isn't compatible with the computer. I've read about several cases like that on this board.
2. Is your new wiring correct?
I'm just wondering about a couple of things.
1. Was it replaced by a factory Knock Sensor?
If not maybe the aftermarket sensor isn't compatible with the computer. I've read about several cases like that on this board.
2. Is your new wiring correct?
I've been using my multimeter to measure the resistance between the KS plug and the ECU plug. The problem is I'm not entirely sure which pin on the ECU plug to check. ( I checked all of them and I'm not getting continuity.) So I'm thinking that's where my problem lies.
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