YotaX

I can't get the timing to set on my 3.0. I have the crank, both cams, and distributor all lined up with the marks. That should be TDC?? Add the te1 e1 jumper. But when I start it and give it gas it boggs down and all must dies. I have moved it a tooth forward. A tooth backwards. Still can't seem to get it right. What gives. It had no issues timing or idle issues before. So I don't think I should gave to adjust anything with the idle controls.

thank you all for helping me with the timing marks. Thanks to yalls help I have be able to pull and rebuild the 3vze.

Team420

did one of the cams spin when you took it apart, or were working/putting back together? Had the same issue once, and ended up being a cam was 180* off

YotaX

I thut about that at first but how can it be 180* off if the marking on the cam sprocket are lined up with the markings on the backing plate. And considering that how can I check if a cam is 180* off?

Unfortantly I hope you are right just so I can complete this project. I have reset this timing about 15 times in the past 3 days.

scope103

Does it start at all? Will it idle? What do you see with your timing light? Even if you have no fuel pressure (so it won't start) you should be able to see the timing marks while cranking.

A number on this list have managed to re-install the distributor off by one tooth (it's easy to do). Your timing will then be off by 27 degrees, but you'll still be able to see the mark (27 degrees off).

YotaX

Yes it will start. I will set it at 10* and think I'm done but then after a few mins it will move way off (could he around 27* like Scope103 said). Then it will idle either high or so low it will die. So assuming that it's warm. I line back up with 0* and try again. Start it adjust to 10* and then after a few mins it will move the timing (idle up or down). i have taken it for a drive thinking it might work itself out but it will loose serious power and want to die by the time I make it around my block

shaunneuhaus95

Im confused on how u set it at 10 degs lock it down run it and then it just moves itself another 17 degs without physically turning the distributor yourself, dumb question here but did u tighten the dist down when you start it?

Team420

the marks can be lined up, and the cam still out 180*.... unfortunately... the only way I know of to check, is to pull the valve covers off, and see if the valves ope/close when they should.

If it was the drivers side cam.... just make sure the rotor on dizzy is pointing at #1 cyl at tdc... if its the pass side cam... trial and error, or start pulling the valve cover.

YotaX

Yes I lock it down. Yes it changes. But the distributor does not move, of course. But as the idle changes the timing advance changes. Maybe that's normal and my question should be why is it that my idle changes high or low. Low to a shutter until it dies.

Wrenchinjoe

Correct me is I am wrong, but this sounds off to me. (No offense intended 420.)

The crank shaft spins two full rotations while the cams each spin one full rotation during one complete engine cycle. So if you line up the CS pulley on 0* on the lower timing cover, and also line up the marks on both cam pulleys with the marks behind the pulleys on the timing cover, then you are at TDC. The distributor rotor should point to approx. 11:00 at TDC.

If one cam rotated 180*, then it would no longer line up with the timing cover, it would be pointing straight down instead.

If you were off by one tooth, then your engine should run, but might run rough. But if one cam were 180* off, it would barely run if it started at all.

It sounds like your engine runs ok enough to start it and set the timing initially, but then runs poorly. I am thinking you could be a tooth off on a cam or with the distributor. Also check your harness that plugs into the distributor, as a bad connection or a short could cause the distributor to communicate poorly with the ecm.

spokane.yota.man

I'm not familiar with the 3.0 at all so I could be totally off base here but if the timing is good when you first start it and then it goes bad then I think you have a different issue. Is there a vacuum advance issue, or something with emissions or ignition that is wrong? Timing belts and chains are locked in place with teeth, so the only way timing will adjust on its own is with components designed to make it happen, like the vacuum advance on 22r distributor. Again, not familiar with 3.0 so I could be wrong but thats what it sounds like to me.

YotaX

Well I guess I'll just have to post a video to show you guys what is happening. I am deploying to Afghanistan on Monday, so this has quickly become not as important. But I still want to get it fixed so it's not a hassle for my wife to drive around the block.