cant get into reverse without grinding...
#1
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cant get into reverse without grinding...
yesterday i noticed that my truck wouldnt start by pushing the clutch and turning the key, instead i have to use the "clutch start cancel" button. today my truck wont go into reverse without grinding loudly til its slows down enough to go in...
now the obvious would be that my clutch is gone right?
heres my problem, i just paid rent and have ZERO dollars til the 15th and i need to get to work. i can still shift through the gears ok and it will come out at lights, but obviously the problem is getting worse.
IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO GET ME THROUGH THE WEEK?
PLEASE SAVE THE SARCASM AND CORNY REMARKS, I NEED HELP...
now the obvious would be that my clutch is gone right?
heres my problem, i just paid rent and have ZERO dollars til the 15th and i need to get to work. i can still shift through the gears ok and it will come out at lights, but obviously the problem is getting worse.
IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO GET ME THROUGH THE WEEK?
PLEASE SAVE THE SARCASM AND CORNY REMARKS, I NEED HELP...
#3
You have a hydraulic clutch. Occasionally it needs to be bled just like a brake system. Try bleeding it. It's free and it could possibly be the cause. On the passenger side of the bellhousing there is the slave cylinder. On the slave cylinder is a bleeder screw that looks like one on a brake caliper. Have someone pump the clutch pedal, then hold it down, and open the bleeder screw. Let the fluid/air come out. Close it. THEN, after you close it, let your partner release the pedal. Just like bleeding the brakes. The only thing is the clutch pedal won't get noticeably hard like a brake pedal does. But do this a couple times and try driving it and see if it helps. Even if it doesn't, it didn't cost you anything.
Also, remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. It's located right in the corner of the engine compartment on the firewall next to the brake booster. You may have to add a little to it if you lose much bleeding it.
Also, remember to keep an eye on the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. It's located right in the corner of the engine compartment on the firewall next to the brake booster. You may have to add a little to it if you lose much bleeding it.
#4
And after checking what Jay said and bleeding it, try adjusting the pedal. Up towards the top of the pedal, way up under the dash, there is a threaded shaft with I believe two nuts on it. I can't remember off the top of my head which way it needs to be adjusted to tighten the clutch, but remember you want to increase the preload on the master cylinder piston. Or decrease the distance it has to move to get the master cylinder piston working.
Last edited by Skinsfan6; 06-01-2009 at 04:38 PM.
#6
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only downshifting to first... like approaching a red right before you stop...
it has been coming out of gear from time to time too... now that i think of it
it has been coming out of gear from time to time too... now that i think of it
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#8
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you dont need a clutch to shift gears, just 'baby' the pedal to find the spot where it synchs and slips into gear.
meanwhile, check for fluid leakage at your pedal. when mine did this, it turned out to be the clutch master was leaking at the firewall. i found fluid behind the carpet behind the pedal. easy to change out and much cheaper than a clutch. bleeding at the slave underneath is easy first check as described above.
meanwhile, check for fluid leakage at your pedal. when mine did this, it turned out to be the clutch master was leaking at the firewall. i found fluid behind the carpet behind the pedal. easy to change out and much cheaper than a clutch. bleeding at the slave underneath is easy first check as described above.
#10
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I vote as well for bleeding; the only thing it might cost you is a small $2 bottle of brake fluid
worst comes to worst, I drove an Isuzu around for 2 months after a throwout bearing decentegraded WOULD NOT come out or go into any gear I just rigged the clutch button, and started in gear, and did the ol "match the RPMs to the speed" trick, lol. yeah, I had NO cash at the time either to do a clutch job, so I know how ya feel
#11
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first off, the PS fluid in Yotas is AFT (Automatic Transmission fluid)
also, neither ATF OR true PSF, would be good in your clutch system
true it's all technically a form of hydraulic fluid, but each has it's own properties
but, oddly enough, BRAKE FLUID is what you want to go with in a hydraulic clutch
#12
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bled the clutch,found a couple small leaks in the couplers where it switches from metal lines to rubber, nothing very serious.
now it wont go into reverse or first unless i turn the engine off and the clutch doesnt stop reverse... i guess i'll be driving forwards only for a week or so...
now it wont go into reverse or first unless i turn the engine off and the clutch doesnt stop reverse... i guess i'll be driving forwards only for a week or so...
#13
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did you check to see that there's fluid in the resevour?
I'm willing to bet, that because of the leak, the level was low, and jumping right to bleeding it without topping it off first (if that is what you did) caused even MORE air to be forced into the system, which would make things worse...
I'm willing to bet, that because of the leak, the level was low, and jumping right to bleeding it without topping it off first (if that is what you did) caused even MORE air to be forced into the system, which would make things worse...
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i took off my slave cyl. on the side of the trans. and noticed that my clutch release fork was moving freely? should it not have a spring loaded feel to it like it is moving the disc? i think i broke off the clip.... sound right?
heres a link with a diagram
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7clutchun.pdf
heres a link with a diagram
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7clutchun.pdf
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after a long couple days of typical bad luck i have my truck back in my shop with the tranny unbolted. i just cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the bottom bolt off the starter so i can slide the trans out to figure out my clutch issue.
someone out there has taken out their starter before i know it... how the frig did you do it?
someone out there has taken out their starter before i know it... how the frig did you do it?
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There are two bolts on the 3.0 starter, one is accessible from the back pax side of the tranny with several extensions and a wobbler. The other is accessible with a LOT of extensions directly through the front of the truck (valance).