Dasman

1986 Runner DLX Cargo version, 22re...

HELP!!

Discovered 2 MAJOR leaks in the intake manifold, and 2 leaks in the plenum/manifold joint.

So, I?ve got it apart, and got all the nuts and bolts off the manifold, nuts off the exhaust riser on the bottom, and something seems to still be holding it to the engine.

HELP! WHAT AM I MISSING? This is my sole ride, and I have to get it done and bottuned up before tomorrow (Sunday 10/21) at dusk.

Any help much appreciated.

SCYOTA

Did you get the socket-head bolt out? There is one bolt on the intake manifold that you have to use a hex key (allen wrench) to take off. I think it is located between the 1st and 2nd cylinder. Look closely as it is centered on the manifold between the two cylinders. If the manifold is loose but won't come off I bet that is your problem. Let me know if you got it and still need more help.

denro

allen head bolt just under the thermostat housing

SCYOTA

Hey thats what I said but in way fewer words.

Dasman

Hey... Thanks Scyota and Denro!

Yeppers... I found the allen bolt. I'm just hopin I didn't mangle it too bad wrestling with the manifold. need a 3/8 alllen socket for that one.

Anyone have any iideas on how to get the nut to turn on the banjo fitting for the main fuel line?

I tried to break it loose with a crescent wrench... didn't have an open end to fit. That I was gonna snap off the end of the fuel rail... that sucker is FROZEN.

thook

Make sure you have all the pressure out of the fuel line, first. Crack the gas fill cap or something. Squirt a little penetrating fluid (PB blaster is the best) on the fitting and lightly tap it with a hammer for a minute or few. Just on the flat end of the head, though. Don't bugger it up. Then, get an box end wrench or socket on it. You need leverage, though. So, use a small cheater bar on the ratchet or hook another wrench (the box end) on the open end of the first wrench...which ever tool you're using. Support the fuel rail with a block or something if you have to while you crank on the fitting. Swap back and forth with tapping and wrenching...as necessary..until it comes loose. It'll come apart....just keep trying.

Dasman

Howdy do....

We might not be talking about the same nut...

The one I'm talking about, is the one at the "front" of the fuel rail. You can't get a socket on it, because it has a plastic pulse dome thingy on it.

I have the head loose now, but I still can't pull it very far away from the head. Seems to be something besides the fuel line. I can free the fuel line at the fuel filter.... but something else is hung up....

I'll keep messin with it. I guess If I can get it far apart enough to clean the surfaces, and replace the gasket, that'll be good enough.

Any of you guys going back in your memory to this job, throw hints you remember about trouble spots up here...

THANKS GUYS

thook

I guess not....sorry. I suppose I'll have to refresh my memory and go look at mine. "I'll be back!"

Dasman

No problemo Thook....

I can get the manifold loose, at this point, at the engine side of the fuel filter. Now I just have to get it cleaned up, and get the new gasket in place.

fun city!!

Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.

denro

yea ,that is like a 1 inch nut on the fuel rail your talking about..its righty tighty lefty loosey on that one...but remember it's screwed in the rail from underneith.
upside down. good luck

SCYOTA

Have you been able to free the banjo fitting? I use a 7/8 wrench on it and that has always worked for me. I know this may sound stupid but make sure you are turning it in the correct direction (towards passenger side fender). Did you mean to say that you are replacing the head gasket or did you mean the gasket between the manifold and head? If you beat up the maifold badly you may want to get if sufaced or the leak will probably develop again. Hope this helps and if not let me know if you need more advice.

Dasman

Hello Gents!

Yeah, I'm doing the intake manifold... I spent a LOT of time prepping the surfaces of both contact areas, finished up with some fine steel wool, and then cleaned both surfaces with a clean shop rag soaked with Chemtool 12.

The gasket was well placed, and stayed put while I bolted the intake up to it.

I'm just hoping that the banjo fitting is still sealed up, and won't leak now.

Should be okay.... it never budged a smidgen.

It ran fairly well before the intake gasket, so it should run a fair bit better. The leak in question, had no gasket left at all.

Also, there was no gasket at all between the EGR riser and the plenum.

Wish me luck!

I'll keep you posted.

Dave

DilutedImage

It's sounds like you've got this figured out, but I thought I'd still throw in my 2? on the topic. ..
- Though not advisable, I found that a large pipe wrench works well on that fuel fitting. It does take some care though, as it's easy to damage that part.
- There is a metal pipe that connects to the bottom of the intake manifold, right against the head, that is connected with two bolts (perhaps it's the "exhaust riser" you mentioned?). Though the bolts may be out, it can still be very difficult to remove, as it's not a flat mating surface. There is ~ 1/4" of pipe that goes into the manifold, that doesn't like to come out. When I did my 4Runner recently, I had to tap that pipe with a hammer to break it loose, and then use a pry bar to hold that pipe down (out of the manifold) while I pulled the manifold off.

2?

denro

^^^ good tip

n4ynu1010

hehehe

n4ynu1010

Remove the evil EGR

Dasman

Drum roll please......

YAY!!!! IT"S ALIVE!!!!

this baby has gone from hacking stumble, to running like a cat purring!!!!!

Now there's only 50 more things to do....

Driveability has gone up by a factor of 2 or 3. Really.

Thanks guys!! Couldn't have done it without the tips and moral support!

SCYOTA

No problem and I'm glad I could help.

n4ynu1010

LOL , 50 more things to do ??? hehe
Glad to hear you got'er running

just a 22re

heat it up with a torch i did!!!!!!










NOT!!! PLEASE DONT HEAT IT UP IT WAS A JOKE DONT GET DEAD ON ME NOW LOL