rphoward

Looking to add as much low end power to my 22re as possible. I've been searching online and there are a few options:

DOA 22RE/RTE - C270 camshaft
LCE 20R/22R/RE/RET Pro Torquer Cam
Engnblder RV Cam EPN 261° "C" (crawler)
Toyhead Cam No. 801-260

I'm sure somebody has asked this question in the past... I tried searching the forum but it yielded an overwhelming number of unrelated results... would appreciate some advice!

Thanks,
Ridge

TrikeKid

I liked the Engnbldr 261 I ran in my last truck a lot, you need to watch to not go too nuts with the cam specs though to keep it running right with the EFI. I can't really help you there as I've only ever swapped cams in my carb trucks.

rbmoomba

Very true with efi builds. I had the engnbldr torquer cam in my 88 and there wasn't enough vacuum for the ac to work without idling it up. (I think that was the issue- it's been a while.)

snobdds

Cams don't increase the power of the engine...they just move the torque (power) band around. So you need to let us know how you intend to use this before anyone can make an educated guess.

Stock cams have a good mix of low and high end torque.

261 cams have good low end torque, but lack high end torque

270 cams have bad low end torque, but have good high end pulling power.

Stu Pidasso

I just put an Engnbldr 268 in mine. I suppose it helps out. I think when doing a cam you need to consider where you want improved performance. As stated above you are moving the power band around. You also pick up a little more power. The best way to capitalize on this is to perform mods that fit the theme of your truck as well as the performance characteristics of each other. An example of doing this wrong is me, I messed my truck up by putting a header on that flows too freely. I lost some bottom end. I would have already lost some with the cam I installed. The header just amplified that. 😁

rphoward

Yes, understood about the trade-off between high and low end torque. I'm looking to lower the power band and get peak torque around 2500 rpms.

I installed the LCE EFI power package years ago (header, larger throttle body, k&n, pro cam and rocker set). Never have been happy with the power band... it's a great kick at 3500 rpms but I'm rarely up there. Finally decided that the cam that came with it was just the wrong application. Might have been better on the circle track...

So.. with that... what would work with my current set up and lower the band as much as possible?

Thanks for the input, guys.

Ridge

rphoward

I found a nice site with specs on tons of 22re cams:

http://home.comcast.net/~jonmarkstewart/cam.htm

Based on the assumption that shorter duration = lower power band, I'm looking for just about the shortest duration I can find.

The Engnbldr 261C is one of the shortest duration plus it's a proven design given feedback I've seen on various yota sites. No worries about popping it in.

Then there's a series of Schneider cams which come in with lower duration. Using my assumption, I would go with a 244I/250E duration cam that has an advertised power band of 1-4k and lift of .415/.430 lift. The lift is between my current cam and stock specs (which both work with the current rockers/springs), so I shouldn't have to worry changing anything else out. I think.

This makes me lean towards the Schneider..... am I right? Is the duration TOO short? Am I missing something in my thought process?

Thanks again for the input.

Ridge

Stu Pidasso

I have not ever ran a Schneider cam personally but the specs sound like it should be a real low end grunt set up. I think of an engine as an air pump. To make torque is to build up pressure. To build up low end torque is to build pressure at low rpm. When you can take in a lot of air and fuel (your LC intake system) and then get it in the head (larger valves high lift cam) you obviously build more pressure. When you have a short duration on your cam you can get the valves to open and close sooner at and build more pressure at lower RPM. Now things like free flowing heads and headers cause us to be able to move more of that air easier, but often times with a loss of velocity i.e. a head that has been ported incorrectly. I think that your intake system with that cam and honestly, a stock exhaust manifold would be awesome. Ted at Engnbldr reccomend a the stock manifold and I saw a dyno chart where a LC header and a sticker were compared and the truck lost power with the LC. That chart is on this website I think.

Stu Pidasso

Supposed to say LC header and a stocker meaning stock manifold.

junkyardog05

I have a 87 Yota 22re all stock with an 84 model head and bottom end. I'm using this truck as my DD to save on fuel which cam in your opinion would I need to use?

snobdds

The stock Cam...no need to switch.

junkyardog05

The truck does have 285/75r16 BF's on it 4.88 gears and a 3 inch lift I thought a bigger cam might help turn those big meats.

snobdds

Cams don't add any power...they move the power band like has been already discussed.

junkyardog05

Thanks for the info I appreciate it

HighLux

I disagree....longer duration/more lift adds more air/fule mixture=more power. Granted it may move torque band around, but its rediculous to say a cam will not add power.

snobdds

You’re forgetting the simple physics of an engine. Valves can only let so much air into the combustion chamber and the pistons can only compress only some much volume of air. Then take into account the fuel...if more air is in the combustion chamber that means there is less "room" for fuel. Since fuel is heavier than air, fuel ends up getting washed out through the pistons on the compression stroke into the crankcase. There is only so much "lift and duration" a stock EFI can handle. Most high lift cams make the engine run leaner, which means the inverse is true for low lift cams.

It's literally impossible for a cam to add power because all your doing really is changing the cam timing...nothing more.

HighLux

What? A valve staying open longer surley lets in more air/fuel.
It will compress whatever is let in.
Fuel heavier than air? Its atmoized. If you are washing fuel past
the rings....time for a rebuild.

The only limit I see with the ecu is duaration overlap related..but thats a whole new can of worms. The ecu can handle more than you think...more than anything you can throw at it NA for sure. Add a blower or turbo...diff story.

dont build a motor around a cam....cam your motor to current mods.

racersg

Thank you. Very well said.

junkyardog05

The cam that I was thinking about going with is the 268C Torker from engblder.

NAST4WD

has anyone used the lce pro torquer cam? im using their street performer head and i want this cam to go with it. but im not sure if the valve to piston clearance will be at its specified minimal and i dont want to buy new valve relief pistons and i only have about 3 days to swap the new head for the old. I dont want to buy all of that and find out it doesnt work. If anyone can help id sure appreciate it.