rangerruck

I'm buying my first ever Toyota; it is a 88 4runner with a 22re engine. removable back top, manual trans, don't know if it is 4 or 5 speed.
1 owner. He told me that about 1 year ago, it had a timing problem, and a leak, and so he had it taken apart at the dealer, and since they were repairing these problems, he decided to go ahead and fix or repair the ' whole lower half ' of the engine. As I know nothing about engines at all at this point, what does that mean? Also, I want to take this hunting. has anyone cut and built boards or anything , that can lay down, flat , in the back area? Can the back area be made to be totally flat, I guess would be a better question? Thanks in advance.

Matt16

The "bottom end" is the bearing on the crankshaft where the pistons and journals attach. If its done by a dealer, that a good thing, as they usually do good work from what I hear. Sounds like that motor is in good shape.

Its a 5pd Aisin transmission. They're good transmissions. Maybe ask when the clutch was done last, as that's a couple hundred dollars if you have that done by a mechanic.

Are you asking whether you can build a flatbed? Yes. Search that one. Also, yes, a 4x8 sheet will fit on top of the wheel arches.

toyota4x4907

If its 4x4, then its a 5 spd manual, unless he did some stupid swap. Im pretty sure though that even if it were a 4x2, it would still be a 5spd in '88.
The "bottom" of an engine involves the pistons, rods, crank shaft, bearings,etc., opposed to the top with the cam(s), valves, head, etc.
About the back, I'm sure you could make some boards to fit in the back. You could remove the rear seats if they are still in there. If you want a flat bed, it would be better to just get a pick-up and replace the bed with a flat-bed. Do some searching on here in the camping section, I'm sure you'll find something that will help.

rangerruck

it is a 4x2, but has the 4x4 option; where you have the other shifter, throw it into 4x4, then let it roll forward on it's own(?) for about 25 ft, then you are good to go, I think that is what he said. Do the opposite, to get it back to 4x2.
but yes, he said he had the bottom end of the engine totally rebuilt. So if this is the origional engine, and he has rebuilt the bottom half, should I worry about the top half stuff? It was his wifes daily driver, so i doubt she got too radical with it at any time...
So it sounds like I could get a 4x8 sheet of plywood, and mostly it will fit allready, just cut to fit as needed? Very nice.

toyota4x4907

Yes, every 4x4 is also 4x2. The term 4x4 is usually used for selectable 4x4, in our cases. 4x2 is usually used to talk about an all the time 4x2/2 wheel drive (2wd) vehicle where you can NOT select 4 wheel drive/4x4. So, on here 4x4 is used to note a 4 wheel drive vehicle, and 4x2 is used to note a 2 wheel drive vehicle. Just clearing things up
Do you know about locking the front hubs BEFORE you go into 4x4?
It wouldn't hurt to have the top checked out by your mechanic. You might as well do a tune-up and oil change while your at it.
I'm pretty sure a 4x8 sheet of wood will fit in the back over the wheel wells! That would make a great platform for hauling dead animals
What kind of animals do you hunt?
Welcome to YotaTech!!

rangerruck

in Texas here, mostly piggies of all sizes and deer. also will be on the lookout for cougar, bobcat, and such. oh yeah, can't forget those hybrid vultures and lots of coyotes.
No, I don't know about locking out the hubs, glad you brought that up. He didn't mention about locking the hubs , as in manually doing something; he said it was automatic. that the wheels had ratcheting chain devices , that would automatically ratchet down, when put into gear, and release as well, when you take it out of gear. Will have to check on that in the manual, which he still has, along with what I gather is the all important, wheel changer/tire assembly pack, with rod thingy in it.
Also, looking around , i see a lot of dudes talking about the early rides, with IFS; what is this, and why does it sound like it is a bad thing?

toyota4x4907

OH MAN!! I've always wanted to hunt pigs and cougars and the such! Im used to hunting (not so much anymore) Moose, bears, deer, and doing a little trapping for like fox, Martens, squirrels (stupid little buggers), etc.
I should have thought you had the auto-locking hubs when you said something about rolling forward. I guess I wasn't paying enough attention. Im not too firmiliar with the auto hubs as I have the manual ones. So as long as you know you have the auto ones, then I'm pretty sure you're doing it right.
IFS= Independent Front Suspension. Its not nearly as bad as people say it is. Its better for on the street driving and most off-roading is fine with IFS. You wont need a Solid Front Axle unless you do hardcore off-roading or want to look cool. Independent suspension allows the individual wheels/suspension to travel (flex) INDEPENDENTLY of the other one. Take a look at your front and rear suspension. If you had a Solid Front Axle (SFA) then the front axle would look very much like the rear axle. Example: On an IFS vehicle, if the front passenger side wheel goes over a bump, but the drivers side doesn't, in theory, the drivers side will remain in the same position, whereas the passenger side suspension will flex with the bump. On a SFA vehicle, if the passenger side wheel goes over a bump, the drivers side one will move as well. I suggest doing some searching on here, there are a ton of posts about it. Also, hit Google or Wikipedia....those would give you a fast answer.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! so true...

anyways, if it was the guys wifes rig, then ts IFS...
and you whould have ADD Hubs... there should be a plastic cap in the center of the rim with a silver sticker that says "Auto Disconecting Differential"... that is ADD... Manual hubs look like this...

ADD means that you are running 2WD, but you do not have to get out and turn the hubs, as pictured above, to the locked position... they do that automatically when you shift the transfer case (the smaller of the 2 sticks in your center console). Now im not 100% sure if this is true, but at least in my case, when i kick it into 4WD, it doesnt take 25 feet to engage, its instantaneous...

also, there is no chains that ratchet down, there are gears in the middle of your front suspension housed in a big (aluminum?) case, called a differential, that constantly spin... there are what looks like 2 arms coming out of the sides of the differential going to the tires called CV axles... those allow your front suspension to felx while still maintaining 4wd... when you put your truck in 4WD, all you are doing is locking your wheels to those CV shafts... dont know the exact mechanics, but as a side demo, think of 2 magnets... when you put it in 4wd, it links them together...

rangerruck

okay, I get that, but he did say about chainlinks ratcheting down, maybe he doesn't know what he is talking about...

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

maybe he is thinking that because its a chain driven transfer case...

toyota4x4907

Thats what I was thinking. But I'm sure the PO doesn't know what hes talking about.
In ADD are the hubs locked all the time, as in the front drive train always spins? I cant remember.....

just a 22re

not sure my truck did have add but the po took out the front diff and hubs made it lockers or he just replaced the clove box with one from a add truck lol

you got any pictures of this beast man??? if take a few pictures we can tell you anything you might wanna know well maybe everything

rangerruck

no pics yet, but the dude has told me it is totally stock, with the only change being the tires he put on it; not a change of the toyota stock wheels at all, but the tires have a bit more of an aggressive tread to it.

toyota4x4907

When you get it, get a Chiltons, or Haynes, or a Toyota factory service manual and just go through some of the things on the engine and chassis. These are really simple vehicles. I've learned like 90% of what little I actually know about engines from my chiltons and just going through my truck. Maybe thats also because I'm a hands on type guy, but these are really simple and fun machines. Plus, you have YotaTech to help you through anything if you get stuck. So deff get some service manual and do like oil changes, tune-up, maybe take off the valve cover, check out the cam and valves in there. Look at a diagram of all the vacuum lines and electrical lines, drive train and everything. Get to know your truck and learn a little about engines Plus its nice to be able to do quick repairs out in the field!
PICS!! We want pics!!...

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

Da... ADD leaves the CVs turning all the time because they are locked to the wheels... thats why im looking for a set of aisins...

+1 to the tune-up right when you get it... never know what the PO has neglected... also, keep in mind that if the POs wife was driving it, then it probably wasnt revved out too much... try not to do that either... ive heard horror stories about motors that have never seen 4,000RPMs when grandma owned it, but as soon as the young gun gets into it and hotrods it for the first time, there goes the piston rings, and the cylinder walls, etc.


ALSO, if you are unsure of your mechanical skills, then im willing to bet that someone that lives near you would be chomping at the bit to see your truck... these guys are funny that way, always wanting to help and whatnot... Must be bragging rights...

trbizwiz

I think the Add has a 2 part CV and the arm that sticks off the front third member has a case on it that engages the add. I bought a third that had add and I had to remove a small geared on both ends shaft that came out of the drivers side where the CV should go in.

bigtrucknwheels

I am willing to bet he doesn't have ADD or manual hubs, from the description.

you guys forgot all about Toyota Automatic hubs.

this is what the current owner is talking about. you have to drive a little forward in 4wd before those hubs engage, and you have to back up and they unlock. a serious design flaw. no 4wd in reverse... they are weak in design as well, and not desirable. you must also come to a complete and full stop before engaging 4wd, which sucks if you need it instantly.

an easy swap for manual hubs though! read up!
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/

rangerruck

dude!!!! that is right, that is exactly how the homie described to me how they work. So no 4 wheel in reverse, huh? well that could be real bad.

rangerruck

Okay, I have no pics of it yet, since I am not picking it up for another week yet,
but since everyone here seems to love the old school vehicles, and all origional stuff, I will give up a little car porn, though it is not Toyota.





this is an all origional 1992 chevy caprice. I mean except for the wheels and tires, all origional. the dude that had it before me, was a county engineer, and he just drove it to work and back. it still doesn't even have 150 k miles on it.
I have done no work to it at all, no engine, tranny, electrical, nothing but the regular wear undercarriage stuff.
The wheels are a bit diff, and the paint job. the wheels are from mid 80's full size chevy truck tires. What this genius dude in South Houston does, is he sand blast cleans these wheels down to the metal, then he can paint the center, and the bowties any color you want; black, blue, screaming orange, candy red, you name it. i was gonna go for the center being screaming orange, with the bowtie matching, but decided, in my neighborhood, this would scream, 'try and steal me'. So I opted for brush aluminum centers, with yellow bowties.

when I get the toyota , I will give up the pics...

Jay351

Well, no. You still have 4wd in reverse. BUT for a distance (backing up) the hubs will unlock then lock again. during that time you do not have 4wd. If you're in a tight spot and you need power to reverse, you can get hooped.

They will do, but manual hubs are better!