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A bunch of questions regarding 33x12.50's on a 2nd Gen 4Runner

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Old 06-22-2010, 06:03 PM
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A bunch of questions regarding 33x12.50's on a 2nd Gen 4Runner

Okay first off, yes I have searched and I haven't been able to find definite answers to my questions.

So right now I have 32x11.50 BFG Mud Terrains and they are getting pretty worn so it's time for a new set of meats! Right now all I have is a set of Downey HD coils in the back with no mods to the front suspension and have the 32's mounted on the stock wheels. This is a pic of how it sits (mines the gold one):

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So over the next few weeks I'm doing some upgrades including an ARB winch bull bar, M8000 and at the same time I'd really like to get some 33x12.50's on there to replace my 32's. I know the subject has been beat the death, but do you guys think some 1.5" BallJoint spacers and an additional 1 or 2" coil spring spacers out back would make me be able to run the 33x12.50's? I had absolutely no rub rubbing with the 32's.

I want to get some wheels for the new tires and I think I've narrowed it down to a set of 15x8 Cragar Soft 8's or their Street Lock D's. I just want to confirm the best backspacing for these wheels, would 3.75" be appropiate? Also from the pictures I've seen on here no one seems to run center caps on these wheels, is it physically impossible to run them with our hubs or something?

Do you guys think the 2" rear coil spacers out back would be too much with only the 1.5" BJ spacers up front, would the 1" spacer be a better choice? I already have the proportioning valve adjustment bracket as well as the extended brake line from my Downey kit, but do you guys think a 4" Panhard drop bracket would be a good choice to add as well? I also already have longer shocks installed.

I appreciate any advice you guys can give me!
Old 06-22-2010, 06:07 PM
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with bj spacers and 901 ome coils or coil spacers you can run 33x12.50s... its not hard to get them to fit on 2nd gens because of the large wheel wells we have... you're gonna wanna consider regearing too, just so you know.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:17 PM
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Yeah I will definitely be getting some gears later down the road, as well as lockers. But right now it's just going to be the tires, wheels and bumper. I'm in a complicated living situation right now, I live and work overseas and I'm basically going to be doing all this just for the month I will be home in July. When I move home for good in 2011 I will take things further.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:19 PM
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33x10.50 ... same ground clearance and traction, no fitment issues.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:25 PM
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I want to go with the 12.50's, it's really the look I am after.

Anyone know of anyone running BJ spacers and Downey coils and 2" spacers out back?

EDIT: I'm also installing some Bushwacker flares to go with the 12.50's

Last edited by HighRunner; 06-22-2010 at 06:26 PM.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:46 PM
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Easiest way to do this will probably be just to load a few pictures. First is when I first got the truck, stock everything. crappy 15x10 wheels and 32x11.50r15 bfg all terrains. Second pic is still stock everything, but some 15x8 wheels and 33x10.50 swampers. Third pic is BJ spacers and landcruiser coil springs, 33x12.50 pro comp mud terrains on a different set of 15x10 wheels. Will post pictures in a minute
Old 06-22-2010, 06:51 PM
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heres the pics
Attached Thumbnails A bunch of questions regarding 33x12.50's on a 2nd Gen 4Runner-32s-stock.jpg   A bunch of questions regarding 33x12.50's on a 2nd Gen 4Runner-33s-stock.jpg   A bunch of questions regarding 33x12.50's on a 2nd Gen 4Runner-33s-lifted.jpg  
Old 06-22-2010, 07:04 PM
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Oh, and 3.75 backspacing will be good. Don't think you'll get away with stock wheels and 12.50's cause I think they'll rub the upper control arms without spacers. I don't know what the backspacing is on the stock 4runner wheels, but I know for a fact you can't use stock tundra wheels with 285/75/16's cause they juuuuuuuuust barely rub. Both of the sets of wheels I currently have (the 15x8's and the 15x10's) are right at about 3.75 and I have tons of clearance.
Old 06-22-2010, 07:09 PM
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What wheels are those in the last picture? They look pretty good from what I can tell! Do you have any more pictures?

Does it rub at all?
Old 06-22-2010, 07:52 PM
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No rubbing at all. I have absolutely no idea whatsoever what kind of wheels these are. I bought them for cheap locally because the steel wheels are easier to balance. They were originally chrome or something that started rusting and looking chitty, so out came the krylon touch, and they actually came out pretty nice. And for a $50 set of wheels, I can't complain
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:31 AM
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bushwakers are fugly. you can run the 33s just as your truck sists now, just have to pound the pinch weld in the front fenders down. (real easy)
Old 06-23-2010, 03:24 PM
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HighRunner - I'm running BFG 33x12.50's with 1.5 BJ spacers in the front and OME 900 coils in the rear. I also used the 4Crawler 1 inch diff drop to offset CV angle for wear. I left the torsion bars at their stock ride height.

I'm really happy with this setup, I don't rub at all. I pounded in my pinch weld and trimmed down my upper control arm but these are very easy mods to do and if you have you're backspacing setup right you may not even have to worry about doing either.

With the 12.50's you don't need fender flares imo, they don't come out far enough unless you use wheel spacers which isn't the best idea unless you absolutely have to. Also, since the front fenders are cut about an inch higher than the rear, a slight rake makes the truck look level.

I'm running stock 4.10's right now, and I'm not sure if I'll regear. I'm still averaging 20mpg on my 22RE 5 speed and I can cruise at 65 on the freeway all day long. I have to downshift to pass or climb hills but if I wanted something fast I'd just hop on my bike instead. On another note, the OME SD33 steering stabilizer takes all negative steering wheel feedback out and if you are going to be doing any wheeling at all I'd recommend bracing your idler arm.

Good luck. All the details are in my signature.

Last edited by conrad; 06-23-2010 at 03:29 PM.
Old 06-23-2010, 06:31 PM
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Just a tip... An air hammer with the big round flat tip makes light work of the pinch welds... Took all of about 30 seconds per side and they are FLAT When it was stock height, with the 33x10.50 swampers, it would rub a tiny bit at full stuff (actually hit a mud hole that was a "bit" deeper than I expected, goosed it, and the tire caught the fender liner and pulled it up to the top of the tire. MAN was that a hell of a racket, and one hell of a deceptive hole (was only about 10-12 feet long... but water over the hood)
Old 06-26-2010, 11:13 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. I guess I'll see how it goes once all the parts arrive (and I actually fly home!!)

I'm a bit disappointed I wasn't able to get a set of 33x12.50 KM2's, they are still on back order everywhere. I ended up going with some Pro Comp Mud Terrains instead and from the reading I've done I should be happy with those as well. Also got a set of Pro Comp 15x8 Series 52 wheels in flat black, I hope they look good too, wasn't able to find any pics of them on a 4Runner!

I wonder if I'll be able to adjust my torsion bars if I need to give myself an extra little bit (especially with the weight of the ARB and winch). I have a feeling they will be ceased pretty bad from those Canadian winters..
Old 06-28-2010, 06:03 PM
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Soak 'em down REAL good for several days before trying to adjust them, and you still may need a torch.

I have the procomp mud terrains now and overall I'm pretty happy with them. They're a good happy medium... Don't do anything exceptionally, but do everything more than adequately. They don't ride like an A/T tire, or street tire, but ride really well. A bit noisy, but not bad at all. On the flip side they don't dig like my swampers did, but then again ride well (I didn't have any complaints about how the swampers rode) and they're a hell of a lot quieter.

I like 'em, and have probably 10k miles on them now (guesstimating... I have about 5k on them, and got 'em used in a trade) and they're still at about 14/32 tread depth... so still about 65-70%.

As with ANY mud tire, STAY ON TOP OF YOUR TIRE ROTATIONS. I don't let it get between 2500 miles between rotations, and they wear great. No chopping, cupping, feathering, etc. Everything is nice and even, which helps the ride a lot.
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