Build a 22re for power/longevity
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Build a 22re for power/longevity
So my engine is officially on they way and my truck will be running within a month (finally). I am buying this engine outright so I will have my old useable core laying around and it got me thinking. I should build the piss out of it and do a 5 speed swap at the same time. Project goal would be to have it done around January and ready to install. I've heard a lot of things like Kieth Black, LCE, Engnbldr etc. but being that I've never built a motor I'm not sure what route to take. I want to build me a PEPPY 22re, but not one that will blow up in 20k either. I know plenty of swaps will yield me more power but I just want an angry little 22re.
Here is a small list of what I've come to believe will make power, please add thoughts. I DO want longevity as well and am willing to turn down some hp for it.
Bore size .040 (will it make the cylinder walls too thin?)
Head work (cam, oversized valves, porting?)
Stroke - need help there
Induction (porting manifold, throttle body bore etc.?)
Pistons (what makes one piston better than the other, compression?)
As you can see I need help, but this will be about a 9 month project or so and I will have plenty of time, an FSM, and an educated friend to bug on the phone and in person if needed. Oh and in the end my project goal on this motor would be to yield about 150 useable hp with decent low end torque. Not sure if those two things can be accomplished at the same time but I would like to try it.
Here is a small list of what I've come to believe will make power, please add thoughts. I DO want longevity as well and am willing to turn down some hp for it.
Bore size .040 (will it make the cylinder walls too thin?)
Head work (cam, oversized valves, porting?)
Stroke - need help there
Induction (porting manifold, throttle body bore etc.?)
Pistons (what makes one piston better than the other, compression?)
As you can see I need help, but this will be about a 9 month project or so and I will have plenty of time, an FSM, and an educated friend to bug on the phone and in person if needed. Oh and in the end my project goal on this motor would be to yield about 150 useable hp with decent low end torque. Not sure if those two things can be accomplished at the same time but I would like to try it.
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 03-28-2008 at 11:05 AM.
#2
AWESOME!
I'm preparing myself for a similar project (top end build only though), and have been researching for maybe a month on it.
Targetnut accomplished basically what I'm going to do here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...roject-125420/
he has great skills and knowledge as how to properly upgrade the 22re.
some great points that i learned from him and various researching are
on performace, balancing air flow with fuel delivery, as well as a matching cam
depending on transmission, be aware of the location of the shifter housing in accordance with your floor board.
other sites i have been frequenting lately are
www.celicasupra.com
www.supracharged.com
www.pirate4x4.com
i'm sure there's more. GL with the build!
I'm preparing myself for a similar project (top end build only though), and have been researching for maybe a month on it.
Targetnut accomplished basically what I'm going to do here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...roject-125420/
he has great skills and knowledge as how to properly upgrade the 22re.
some great points that i learned from him and various researching are
on performace, balancing air flow with fuel delivery, as well as a matching cam
depending on transmission, be aware of the location of the shifter housing in accordance with your floor board.
other sites i have been frequenting lately are
www.celicasupra.com
www.supracharged.com
www.pirate4x4.com
i'm sure there's more. GL with the build!
#4
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High Compression pistons is what made my engine really scream. Very pricey @ $550 for 9.9:1forged pistons and good rings, but I think its worth it in the long run. I can beat my bro hands down with his 3.7L v6 in his jeep, and i still want to upgrade the Carb and ignition.
#5
.040 doesn't sound too bad, but that decision should be made at the machine shop when you have the block checked out, you may only need .020
My preference is to bore only what is necessary to get fresh round hole. Staying with the stock stroke is going to save you a lot of money, unless you "really" want to build a stroker motor. A welded and offset ground crank will easily add $1000, but you would end up with a 2.7 and lots of torque. There is a limit to the work you can do on the motor with the stock fuel injection. Megasquirt could come into play if you really start messing with compression, cam, airflow. That is a whole 'nother learning curve.
Having the rods reconditioned with ARP bolts will add highly to the longevity/abuse ability of the motor, as will attention to detail during machining, prep and assembly of the whole motor. I do not think custom pistons are needed for 150hp (approx 1hp/inch), quality cast replacement pistons will suffice. Moly rings in a fresh bore are important. You could research piston coatings, I have never used them.
Cam timing is important, DOA steel guides should be used to keep the single row chain in line. An adjustable gear from LC would be nice, I did not use one. Engbldr is a good place to deal with and buy parts from.
Head work is an area that will net +power, especially a good valve job (3 angle). Engbldr has a nice built head with +size valves. I like his 261c cam but I do not have experience with comparisons of other cams. Ted did a write up about budget building the 22re here: http://www.tinyurl.com/2lsgm6
My preference is to bore only what is necessary to get fresh round hole. Staying with the stock stroke is going to save you a lot of money, unless you "really" want to build a stroker motor. A welded and offset ground crank will easily add $1000, but you would end up with a 2.7 and lots of torque. There is a limit to the work you can do on the motor with the stock fuel injection. Megasquirt could come into play if you really start messing with compression, cam, airflow. That is a whole 'nother learning curve.
Having the rods reconditioned with ARP bolts will add highly to the longevity/abuse ability of the motor, as will attention to detail during machining, prep and assembly of the whole motor. I do not think custom pistons are needed for 150hp (approx 1hp/inch), quality cast replacement pistons will suffice. Moly rings in a fresh bore are important. You could research piston coatings, I have never used them.
Cam timing is important, DOA steel guides should be used to keep the single row chain in line. An adjustable gear from LC would be nice, I did not use one. Engbldr is a good place to deal with and buy parts from.
Head work is an area that will net +power, especially a good valve job (3 angle). Engbldr has a nice built head with +size valves. I like his 261c cam but I do not have experience with comparisons of other cams. Ted did a write up about budget building the 22re here: http://www.tinyurl.com/2lsgm6
#6
Registered User
150 is very do-able....
As far as potential from the engine. But to really get to that number you will likely have to use a progammable engine management. 150hp is really too much to expect from the stock 195cc injectors. Even if you run a maximum duty cycle of 90%, which is more than generally recommended, you would need at least 220cc injectors and really it would be better to have 250cc injectors and keep that duty cycle at 80% and since your ecm is calibrated to work with 195cc injectors it would be difficult to get those larger ones to run correctly. you can bump the fuel pressure up some if you install an adjustable pressure regulator, but this only nets small gains in flow.
Your .040" overbore is a good guideline for a maximum, but really it is a waste to open it up anymore than you need to get the cylinders in good condition. People think they are gaining a lot by boring an engine but really it's an insignificant amount and if you go to far you will reduce the integrity of the cylinders and loose more than you gain in friction. If you really want to make it bigger increasing the stroke is the way to go. not only do you increase the displacement, but you also increase the mechanical advantage on the crankshaft which yields more torque.
Bumping the compression up to 10:1-10.5:1 will help this can be done with some flat top pistons. forged piston are cool and definitely stronger and certainly recommended for forced induction applications, but hypereutectic pistons will hold up to pretty much anything you'll dish out on the street.
As far as the cylinder head, the Topline head that I got from engine builder actually flowed just a little less than the stock head on the intake side, and slightly more on the exhaust side. But if you are planning to port the head, the exhaust ports have a lot more material in the short side radius area and this is very beneficial to flow capability. For this reason alone I would recommend one of these heads. In the intake ports, really it is not that hard to get 20% or so more flow with out extensively hogging them out. However the problem I ran into is getting the flow matched. I believe this is due to the swirl designed into the port and is the main reason I went and completely modified the intake ports. at this point it will definitely help to increase the size of the throttle and do some work on the manifold. And be sure to keep the cam selection in line with the rest of your mods.
here is a link to a post by engnbldr on another forum. he sheds a lot of light on some of the finer points of assembling a 22RE for good power:
and a link to Toysports page on 22R technical notes
Do websearches about porting and intake manifold tuning. There is also printed literature available on these topics.
Research this as best you can, it is easy to get carried away and end up with a package that is not really that great to drive. But if you do it right you'll have something special!
Your .040" overbore is a good guideline for a maximum, but really it is a waste to open it up anymore than you need to get the cylinders in good condition. People think they are gaining a lot by boring an engine but really it's an insignificant amount and if you go to far you will reduce the integrity of the cylinders and loose more than you gain in friction. If you really want to make it bigger increasing the stroke is the way to go. not only do you increase the displacement, but you also increase the mechanical advantage on the crankshaft which yields more torque.
Bumping the compression up to 10:1-10.5:1 will help this can be done with some flat top pistons. forged piston are cool and definitely stronger and certainly recommended for forced induction applications, but hypereutectic pistons will hold up to pretty much anything you'll dish out on the street.
As far as the cylinder head, the Topline head that I got from engine builder actually flowed just a little less than the stock head on the intake side, and slightly more on the exhaust side. But if you are planning to port the head, the exhaust ports have a lot more material in the short side radius area and this is very beneficial to flow capability. For this reason alone I would recommend one of these heads. In the intake ports, really it is not that hard to get 20% or so more flow with out extensively hogging them out. However the problem I ran into is getting the flow matched. I believe this is due to the swirl designed into the port and is the main reason I went and completely modified the intake ports. at this point it will definitely help to increase the size of the throttle and do some work on the manifold. And be sure to keep the cam selection in line with the rest of your mods.
here is a link to a post by engnbldr on another forum. he sheds a lot of light on some of the finer points of assembling a 22RE for good power:
and a link to Toysports page on 22R technical notes
Do websearches about porting and intake manifold tuning. There is also printed literature available on these topics.
Research this as best you can, it is easy to get carried away and end up with a package that is not really that great to drive. But if you do it right you'll have something special!
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I plan on using a real machine shop for sure. That article from engnbldr definitely put a few things into perspective. I do plan on also calling him to speak with him about what he may suggest, I definitely had a few things wrong in my mind as far as what really produces power. Thanks for all the responses They will undoubtedly be looked over by me again and again while I am in the planning stages.
Last edited by Luvmeye22re; 03-29-2008 at 04:35 PM.
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