Broken bolt, could use some guidance.
#42
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Right on. Got some ultra grey as well just to make sure no leaks. Just realized that I should also replace all the other gaskets too so gotta wait for those to come in now d'oh! Maybe next weekend it will be up and running.
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#45
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I knew it didn't look like mine but wondered if yours might be a little different. I replaced my CSI gasket a while back for whatever reason. I can't remember but I know I didn't have any trouble finding one. I would stay away from RTV on anything gasoline related. Gas is a powerful solvent and can eat through silicone. Take no shortcuts on your fuel system seals. New gaskets and crush washers every time you take a line loose.
You guys don't get to carried away with using RTV along with gaskets or o-rings especially. If your surfaces are free of damage, clean them and use only the o-ring. All o-rings are not made out of the same material so be sure to only use a ring that is in spec with what you are working with. Certain fluids break down natural rubber just like other fluids break down neoprene or elastomeric rings but not rubber. When you add a sealant to an o-ring, the o-ring is the more secure sealing device which, technically, makes the sealant a contaminant to the sealing joint. I have seen hundreds of leaks caused by this method. I won't say that I have never done it but those times were when I had a heavily pitted sealing surface and plenty of surface to work with. Low pressure systems only.
You guys don't get to carried away with using RTV along with gaskets or o-rings especially. If your surfaces are free of damage, clean them and use only the o-ring. All o-rings are not made out of the same material so be sure to only use a ring that is in spec with what you are working with. Certain fluids break down natural rubber just like other fluids break down neoprene or elastomeric rings but not rubber. When you add a sealant to an o-ring, the o-ring is the more secure sealing device which, technically, makes the sealant a contaminant to the sealing joint. I have seen hundreds of leaks caused by this method. I won't say that I have never done it but those times were when I had a heavily pitted sealing surface and plenty of surface to work with. Low pressure systems only.
#46
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Uggh ran into another problem. My intake gasket kit include this gasket here that I'm not sure where it's supposed to go.
Here it almost looks like it will fit on the lower intake where it meets with the water pipe but I already have an O-ring for that. Unless it's supposed to go here as well?
Here it almost looks like it will fit on the lower intake where it meets with the water pipe but I already have an O-ring for that. Unless it's supposed to go here as well?
Also - there are different coolant/heater pipe tubes between the carbeurated and EFI intakes - so it might be for that
#47
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The one in the photo that you're holding is definitely for a carburated 22r. I don't know where it goes cause I've only worked on EFI.
I bought the CSI gasket from Toyota cause my gasket set didn't include one, either. It's an important gasket and the dealer has the highest quality one for a few bucks. No sealer will hold against gasoline for very long.
Also, as already said try to keep rtv away from o-rings. Rubber is an excellet sealer. Notice how everyone smears oil on an oil filter gasket instead of rtv and they just about never, ever leak? Also, a/c systems are under very high pressure and use dry o-rings to seal it up tight.
Just some things to keep in mind. Like I mentioned already, my 22re had small oil and coolant leaks and just about every gasket was rtv'd.
#48
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Cool that makes a lot of sense now. I was worried that I missed a gasket somewhere. Just got the manifold back on, unfortunately it got too dark so I couldn't finish the whole job but no rtv used. Let's see how this goes tomorrow! I'm pretty nervous. This whole ordeal has been a bitch of a job and I really don't want to go back in there anytime soon lol
#49
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Hey guys. Very new here but I have found a wealth of knowledge in a very short period of time. This thread in particular. I just have a few things to ask, as I am tackling nearly the exact same situation.
So I have the lower intake off. In regards to the wiring harness, I have to disconnect everything all the way to the exhaust to be able to get the intake out? Just received another intake in the mail today and tomorrow is my day off, so I'm anxious to get going on this.
Mattyboi... did you finish up after all?
So I have the lower intake off. In regards to the wiring harness, I have to disconnect everything all the way to the exhaust to be able to get the intake out? Just received another intake in the mail today and tomorrow is my day off, so I'm anxious to get going on this.
Mattyboi... did you finish up after all?
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Hey guys. Very new here but I have found a wealth of knowledge in a very short period of time. This thread in particular. I just have a few things to ask, as I am tackling nearly the exact same situation.
So I have the lower intake off. In regards to the wiring harness, I have to disconnect everything all the way to the exhaust to be able to get the intake out? Just received another intake in the mail today and tomorrow is my day off, so I'm anxious to get going on this.
Mattyboi... did you finish up after all?
So I have the lower intake off. In regards to the wiring harness, I have to disconnect everything all the way to the exhaust to be able to get the intake out? Just received another intake in the mail today and tomorrow is my day off, so I'm anxious to get going on this.
Mattyboi... did you finish up after all?
Last edited by mattyboi; 10-11-2016 at 10:35 PM.
#51
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Similar issue. Broke a bolt trying to replace the thermostat. Tried tapping then extracting... broke the stupid extractor. Read through your thread, and looked at the post that included the guy that is jedi amazing at removing stuff. Psssh.. if I woulda read that earlier. This may have been cheaper either way. Found a few other items that need some attention along the way.
Which brings me to an issue I forgot to ask about. Let's say one of the injectors will not come out...How might I attack this? I'm at work right now but might be able to post a pic or two tomorrow (today).
Which brings me to an issue I forgot to ask about. Let's say one of the injectors will not come out...How might I attack this? I'm at work right now but might be able to post a pic or two tomorrow (today).
#52
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Similar issue. Broke a bolt trying to replace the thermostat. Tried tapping then extracting... broke the stupid extractor. Read through your thread, and looked at the post that included the guy that is jedi amazing at removing stuff. Psssh.. if I woulda read that earlier. This may have been cheaper either way. Found a few other items that need some attention along the way.
Which brings me to an issue I forgot to ask about. Let's say one of the injectors will not come out...How might I attack this? I'm at work right now but might be able to post a pic or two tomorrow (today).
Which brings me to an issue I forgot to ask about. Let's say one of the injectors will not come out...How might I attack this? I'm at work right now but might be able to post a pic or two tomorrow (today).
If its stuck in the fuel rail just keep gently pulling/twisting it. You might end up ripping off the rubber part (not sure the term) but you can get a kit and replace them for pretty cheap.
Last edited by mattyboi; 10-12-2016 at 06:49 AM.
#53
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What I did was pull one end of the spring away from the connector until it pops off. Go easy on it, the plastic insulators are gonna be really brittle just ask me how I know...
#54
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The first 3 came out pretty easily. The one closest to the firewall is stuck in the intake. Yet again...I don't have a pic to explain. I did order a kit to fix the injectors. Just gotta YouTube how to do that now. Lol. But I will keep the brittle injectors in mind. Can't imagine how you might know that.
#55
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The only thing holding the injector tip in the intake should be an o-ring and an old insulator washer that's probably hard plastic by now. Just spray some penetrating oil in there then gently rock the injector from side to side and twist a bit and it should pop right out.
#56
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The only thing holding the injector tip in the intake should be an o-ring and an old insulator washer that's probably hard plastic by now. Just spray some penetrating oil in there then gently rock the injector from side to side and twist a bit and it should pop right out.
#57
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Months later, I've finally gotten a chance to return to this favorite post of mine. What a pain to search and find it lol. Well, I got all the injectors out and rebuilt pretty easily. Sometimes it's good that work pulls me away. I go back starting with a fresh brain. So reviewing nearly all the posts, I noticed someone mentioning the fuel filter should be replaced while the intake is all out. Can someone maybe post a link or part number? I've looked on a few site and amazon of course, but I don't want to order the wrong thing.
On a comical note... do you ever buy a part and put it "somewhere you can remember" and lose it? Yup, had to buy a new set of gaskets thanks to my super safe keeping spot that I can't find. They'll pop up just as soon as its all back together.
On a comical note... do you ever buy a part and put it "somewhere you can remember" and lose it? Yup, had to buy a new set of gaskets thanks to my super safe keeping spot that I can't find. They'll pop up just as soon as its all back together.
#58
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I would just order it from the parts store. Not too hard to get them mixed up. And yes, when I replaced my fuel filter I forgot to put in the new crush washers, mainly because they fell out of the box somewhere and didn't see the old ones fall out, so of course fuel was spitting everywhere upon start up lol
#59
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Call NAPA and see if they have the filter. Most others don't carry it. Get you a cap while you are there to block the line from the tank and then flush / blow out the line from the rail to the filter.
be sure to use a pair of wrenches on the fittings and go ahead and spray them down with oil now.
be sure to use a pair of wrenches on the fittings and go ahead and spray them down with oil now.
#60
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http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t...el+filter,6200
You really should get Metric "Flare nut" wrenches. The flare nuts don't have a lot of meat on them, and they are brass. So if they are "stuck," you can damage them quite easily with a plain-ole-wrench. Then you're screwed; the nut is put on the fuel line before the compression ring is swadged, so you need to replace the fuel line back to the next connection!
I should also mention that flare nut wrenches, to a much greater extent than "ordinary" tools like socket wrenches, are BETTER if you get a name-brand. I usually buy the cheapest tools that will do the job, but such flare nut wrenches can flex and end up worthless. So spend a few dollars.
You really should get Metric "Flare nut" wrenches. The flare nuts don't have a lot of meat on them, and they are brass. So if they are "stuck," you can damage them quite easily with a plain-ole-wrench. Then you're screwed; the nut is put on the fuel line before the compression ring is swadged, so you need to replace the fuel line back to the next connection!
I should also mention that flare nut wrenches, to a much greater extent than "ordinary" tools like socket wrenches, are BETTER if you get a name-brand. I usually buy the cheapest tools that will do the job, but such flare nut wrenches can flex and end up worthless. So spend a few dollars.