acudadude

Had the same leak on my 94 its a oring....i used some ultra silicone and the oring too... also worked good

mattyboi

Got the o ring out. Just need to remove the lower manifold then I can extract the broken bolt. Removed 9 bolts/ nuts. Anything else holding it on? Maybe the lrevious owner used a liquid gasket so its sticking on

gsp4life

+1
I had those bolts in my hand a few weeks ago and agree they are m6 x 1mm. If you use lots of cutting oil and a tiny drill bit, you may be able to bite into the center of it and then use a #1 easy-out to remove it. If that don't work, you need a whole new lower intake, so work slowly and carefully! Also, the new bolts you'll use are just to compress a 17mm (I think) o-ring so not very tight at all and coat them good with anti-seize. Bolts near coolant passages are a real b**ch!

gsp4life

Did you get the 100mm long Allen head bolt out, on the t-stat housing? If it's still in there, put the other bolts back in and crank em down to compress the gasket back down, otherwise you'll definitely round that long allen bolt and need to resort to violent methods of removal.

mattyboi

Yup got that one out yesterday. Looks like the previous owner already rounded it. Luckily my mechanic roommate (works at a dealership) just came by and hammered a larger size Allen socket into it and it came off pretty easy with a small breaker bar!

The one I did not see was just underneath this one. Needed a mirror and a flash light to see it lol Once the manifold came loose I realized that I needed to undo a whole bunch of sensors...all the way back to the O2 sensor because the wiring harness goes right through the lower manifold lol Will attempt at removing the bolt tomorrow.. Hopefully that goes smoothly. If not I'll just throw in a helicoil.

I'll make sure to use a good anti seize and to not break the new bolts!

Grego92

iTrader: (4)

Just a coincidence that I talked to this guy today about something non-vehicle related (plumbing). Something to keep as a bookmark in case anyone is in need of his services in the future, pretty interesting article that some of the big aerospace companies trust him. They are only about 20 minutes away from his place, so I understand why they would just show up at his place, and luckily I'm only 15 minutes from his place. Will be dropping something off for him tomorrow morning. The guy is really down to earth and genuine from what I could gather.

http://www.extractit.com/

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hot-r...ng-broken-tap/

mattyboi

\

That's pretty cool! I wonder how long until a tool like that becomes available at your local parts store haha

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I was pretty sure it was some sort of EDM process That works awesome

They were so very expensive

Then I am thinking back 20 years or so.

mattyboi

Successfully drilled and taped in some new threads. One more question before I put it all back together. I couldn't find the specific o-ring from the parts store so I just found a generic one that fit. Only difference is that the new one is round. Should be alright to use in my opinion. The old one probably flattened out over time. What do you guys think?

acudadude

Dealer ones are round when new.

gsp4life

Yup. Every o-ring I replaced on mine had become some funky, not-round shape. If your idle adjuster on the tb is too easy to turn, same thing it just needs a new o ring.

mattyboi

Does the gasket required any sort of sealant or does it go on dry? No instructions with the kit I got.

Charchee

Which gasket are we talking about?

mattyboi

Lower intake manifold.

Charchee

I wouldn't use any sealant. Just clean the surfaces, carefully install it and torque your bolts to spec. Make sure you have a quality gasket. You don't want to have to go back in there to replace a cheap gasket. When I bought my new injectors, the package included a gasket that was ridiculously crappy. I couldn't believe they would have even shipped that with their product.

gsp4life

The only place there was any gasket sealant on a factory 22re was the oil pan, two small spots on the timing cover to block deck surface and the half moons. Other than that, all gaskets install dry.

That's how mine went back together and haven't lost a drop . Rear main seal, water pump, timing cover, you name it all assembled clean and dry.

It used to have a few small oil and coolant leaks and almost every gasket had rtv on it.

Coincidence?

mattyboi

Thanks guys! Hopefully I can get this done today. She's been parked for 2 weeks now

Andy A

If you have ever had to remove any type of paper gasket like the intake gaskets after they have been in place for a long time, you know how they will stick and break apart and you end up having to do allot of scraping to remove all the gasket, I have always used a product called Hylomar, on those type of gaskets. It makes removal so easy. Learned about it many years ago and swear by it. It is kind of a sticky gel like coating which one coats the gasket in a real thin layer. A little bit goes a long way.

Cheers

millball

Hylomar makes many different products with different specifications.

Which product do you use???

mattyboi

Uggh ran into another problem. My intake gasket kit include this gasket here that I'm not sure where it's supposed to go.

Here it almost looks like it will fit on the lower intake where it meets with the water pipe but I already have an O-ring for that. Unless it's supposed to go here as well?



All the gasket off the EGR system look like this so I'm sure it's not for that. ANd yes the kit did include the EGR gasket with the 3 holes that goes on the far left on the lower intake manifold (looking from the passenger side front tire).