FuelforWar

well I broke my upper shock mounts for the last time today. there twisted and bent beyond my repair. From what I can dig up, the two replacements I can get would either be a total chaos shock hoop ( something that would span the distance of the upper ifs arm), or a ford shock tower. I like the price of the ford shock tower in comparison to the total chaos shock hoop but im not sure of the clearance issues. Ive seen plenty of pics with the ford tower on straight axles, but cant find it anywhere installed on an ifs set up. I do plan on changing over to straight axle in time, but I need shocks til then. any help would be nice. set up is a 93 4runner ifs with 1 1/2 bj spacers. Also whats the risk factor of just running around on the torsion bars til this problem is sorted out? other than the obvious bouncy front end and instability? Thanks

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Pray tell just how did you break these??

Why not replace with the factory mounts??

Heavy on the throttle where you should have been slow and easy??

using shocks with not enough travel after the Ball Joint spacers ??

Pictures would be nice!!

FuelforWar

combination of a few of these. ultimately it was due to running to short of shocks. after they broke the first time I arc welded them back into plce and bought a sset of pro comps with 2 more inches travel. seeing how they broke again im questioning if I was given what I asked for. im gonna compare the broken shock to my old one when i return home tonight. IMll also psot pics tonight when im done helping my buddy with his clutch. can i get just the upper shock mount from the dealer? also if i can wont that cost me an arm and a leg just to have the same crappy stud topped shock again?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It all depends just what you want.

You say you want to SAS the truck .

So fix it till you get there why spend lots of money on things your gonna throw away or try and sell.

If you can weld you know just what you need to do.

you might be able to get new mounts .

Or make your own.

Used ones are an option

Just what year .


The only reason they broke is poor welds /prep work or to much movement in the shocks

I know it is a pain to do this the right way and most likely you were pressed for time..

I guessing you pulled the mounts right off the frame perhaps right in the HAZ (Heat effected zone)

FuelforWar

I understand why they broke and i dont intend on wasting any money. Id like to use a shock hoop or tower that i could just leave in place or relocate when i do my straight axle swap. Im really looking for advice on the best replacement for money but im unsure of dimensions on a ford shock tower. I know the shock hoop would work but its over a hundred for those.

JohnnyCanuck

Don't blame the "crappy" design of the shock mount on short shocks..… I have beat my truck as hard or harder than any truck I've owned and never once broke a smoke mount. if you use proper shocks on properly welded mounts you should have no issues at all. If you are having issues from a simple shock mount weld, you might consider getting someone that makes a living welding before you consider a SAS. I only say this because when I was at a pick & pull a couple of weeks ago, there was a 4runner there parting out that had a completely butchered SAS, the welding for the spring mounts and shocks was horrible; it didn't even look safe to drive to me. GL with this!

FuelforWar

it didnt break at my weld and i never said anything about the studs being the culprit as to why my mounts broke. was only stating i think its. weaker design compaared to the hoop ends where you have a bolt holding it in place, not just a 14mm nut and waher. im just trying to figure how the mount broke the second time if my replacement shocks were 2 inches longer. thatss all i was stating bout the shocks. now please cease the hostility and give actual help rather than picking apart my mistake and bashing on my opinions. im no closer than i was before posting this.

JohnnyCanuck

you keep going on about the oem shock mount being insufficient; here's the words you use - "crappy", "not JUST a 14mm.." Post a pic of where it broke, I still don't see how it could break..twice. If it didn't break at where you welded it, where did it break then?

FuelforWar

Let me elaborate from the beginning I guess. Purchased my bj spacers. From what I gathered online if the shocks reached you didn't have to replace them. I however didn't think to lift the front end before installing them. so yes they reached just fine, But obviously are to short when the front suspension is in full drop. So I assume the torsion bars down pressure, everytime I hit a bump or pot hole, ripped the upper shock mounts loose. Now, I rewelded them and purchased a set of pro comp shocks from 4wheelparts that are 2" over stock length. This was about a month ago. Suspension has seemed very stiff and harsh. Yesterday on my way home I hit a speed bump going around 10mph. Heard a clunk and the drivers side bounced up and down. Took a look and the upper mount was completely ripped off. The left side (front of truck) cracked about 1/2" below the weld from where I repaired it, and about 4 inches down on the right side. These breaks are on the vertical side of the mount. The mount is pretty much just a 90 degree bracket with a triangle cut out in the center. Stock welds are on the back side of the 90 and all along the edges of the vertical side. The right side has bent severly outwards and ripped away from the vertical piece. The top of the shock was caught under the a arm and has bent the stud into a 90 degree angle.


Now, I know what has caused this, and i'm pretty sure the replacement shocks are either to short, or were mixed up with stock length shocks. I just want to replace the original mounts with a type a mount I can use when I do my SAS, I prefer the hoop style shocks over the stud topped kind. personal preference. Will a ford shock tower fit inside the upper a arm? Or am I going to have to get something more expensive or custom make a shock mount. This is all I really want to know.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I do not believe it would be the droop that caused it to break. Seams more likely that the shock was too long and upon compression would not only damage the shock internally but would push the mount up. But this is all speculation until we see some solid pics of the breaks.

FuelforWar

if that were the case wouldnt the mount be smashed up? not ripped down? and all these qestions help nothing. the mount is broken. idk if it was the shock or if it was hit with lightning. either way its still broke and needs to be fixed in one way or another. some hellpful commentts would be VERY appreciated!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

How about you provide some pics so people get an idea what you're dealing with. Do you have any rust issues in the frame at that area? Has it been wrecked before? Blazeland has shock hoops for the ifs arms, some that even run dual shocks. But what you have broken is not typical.

FuelforWar

I wont be able to post pics up til tomorrow or this weekend, but 2/3 of the mount on the drivers side is ripped off. Wouldn't take much just to grind off the rest. But there isn't any rust, but I do know the vehicle has had something go down with it. It has a rebuilt title, and theres a washington state inspection sticker on the inside of the drivers door. Only damage I could find when I bought the vehicle was two little dents on the bottom doors on the drivers side of the truck, and the running boards were missing. I've looked at the total chaos shock hoops, but not the blazeland ones. I'll do some pricing on those. I prefer the look of the hoops verse the tower. Its just the price that makes me wonder which would be a better route.

FuelforWar

The blazeland hoop kit is $399. The total chaos hoop kit is $285. The ford shock tower is $35....., all before shipping. Any other options?

FuelforWar

found an old picture.... trying to show the best i can what happened.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Only other thing I can think of is reweld, then add vertical gussets. ooooooooooooooooooooor, SAS and be done.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm....I've jumped my rig numerous times and never broke a mount.

Interesting.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Now my stuff gets used I have never seen a broken one.

i made my comments .

even with pictures it never tells the complete story.

op wants to put the FORD parts on well get some dimensions see if they will fit.

If one can ****weld why would you buy something you can make .

Being it is the end of the year for those that end the tax year on 12/31

This years budget might be almost gone.***

**** My definition of weld may be different

BlazeN8

Breaking the shock mounts like you did is not common. Actually its the first time I have run across this. BJ Spacers will give you more down travel (droop) and that will result in a shock that is too short. Bump and Droop stops not being properly set up can cause problems as well. Another common mistake is tightening the upper shock mount too much. The pin style mount needs to be allowed to pivot in the bushing as the suspension does its thing.

The best way to prevent these issues is to properly design and tune your suspension as you make modifications. Remove the shock and taking measurements of the shock mounts at droop and stuff. Make sure you compensate for the compression of your bump and droop stops (or remove them and measure metal to metal) Then make sure the shock specifications fall within the measurements of your shock mounts.

BlazeN8

Also, if the steel failed as you indicated in your graphic I'd suspect damage to the cross shaft mounting plate / bracket. It may also have pulled that up and off the frame.

Another condition you may investigate as a factor is the factory rubber bushing in the UCA are not full floating and will allow bind in the bushings. The rubber bushing don't rotate on the shell and sleeves they are a solid bond and the rubber twist on itself. Under extreme articulation caused by modified bump or droop stops, BJ Spacers, or LT the rubber chunks apart and destroys itself. When this is going on it puts a lot of stress on the cross shaft which in turn can rip the threaded bungs through the cross shaft plate or tear up the frame brackets. Free floating, Non-Binding Poly Bushing are a good upgrade to let the UCA flex.

BTW the Blazeland shock hoops require longer control arms so there is more room for the shocks. Good luck with your repairs.