v_man

Hey folks I broke my driver side shock hoop , ripped it right off the frame at the weld .



Small crack in the frame too...

I'm thinking of welding a plate over the frame there to reinforce the area , and then welding the shock hoop onto the plate .



Secondly , I think my shocks were too long for my SFA setup . I only have about 3.5" on rod exposed , not much room for the axle to compress without bottoming out the shock .



So ... I'm thinking of running bump stops to limit axle compression , and then maybe getting shorter shocks? But would that limit flex a couple of inches ?

Any advice here regarding the weld repair , running different size shocks , do bump stops work well ?

Thanks in advance ...

Cyberman

First of all, wow.

Did the shock hoop have the extra tubes attached to the rear that are welded to the top of the frame? (Check my build-up thread, post #185)
What length are the shocks and what lift are the springs?

Looks like you'll need a decent length of plate on there.

Definitely run bump stops, especially if the shocks bottom out. My SAS kit actually cam with bump sop extensions.

v_man

Shocks are ~ 18" compressed , with ~ 13" of travel .

No I did not reinforce the hoop like you did , great idea .

I think bump stops will be a must ... just got a 14" plate of 1/4 inch , hopefully to beef up the frame and get the hoop back on , running on 3 out 4 is getting a little exciting !

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Are you planning to do both sides??

1/4" is a bit of over kill considering your frame is between 3and 4 mm

instead of plate I would have used angle catching the top of the original frame.

just remember to keep away from vertical welds and a few plug welds don`t hurt

v_man

Yes I'll be doing both sides .

I also bought a 3/16 plate , so I might use that instead , I agree the 1/4 plate was pretty beefy when I mocked it up on the frame . I got a lot to learn .

Thanks for the input , I'll do some research on using angle ...



Broken on the side of the road near Bridgeport CA. Drove over the Sierra with no driver side shock ... !

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I will try and get some pictures to show you.

v_man

Thanks that would be super helpful

v_man

Any advice on best place to mount front bump stops ?

Weld bump stops to frame ? Or weld bump stops to the leaf spring plates on the front axle ?

Or both frame and spring plate and they bump somewhere in the middle ?

Cyberman

Stops to plate, extension (if necessary) to frame.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I think one of the reasons for failure besides the shocks not being sized correct .

Was that you failed to plate the frame prior to attaching the hoops .

Also some gussets added to the hoops to spread the load over more area .

v_man

Yes I will be adding gussets , that seems like a no brainer now .

Wyoming , any way you can put up some pics using angle in the manner you suggested , perhaps around the top and bottom corner of the frame , instead of just throwing a plate on the frame?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I am working on it!!

Paying Jobs come first before free ones!!!!!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Since I really don`t have any solid axles here and a IFS is so different

I just used a piece of 1/2" x4"" to simulate the frame .

The patch piece is 1/8X6" strip bent on a break to give me about 2"x4"angle which is great for the mid -eighties 4x4 vehicles.

Nothing is measured but it should give you the idea .

The circles on the angle can be plug welds just don`t get any over the damaged area Been there done that!!

The idea is to get your shock hoops as much bearing surface as practical

Questions feel free

v_man

Thanks Wyoming .

I have an engine mount reinforcement on top of the frame right where that angle would go ...



I'm assuming I could use an angle as you suggested on the underside of the frame ?

Also , what would you recommend , 1/8 ? That seems a little light , but I understand these frames ain't much thicker .... Thanks again .

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

in your case you can notch the angle to fit around the brace.

Think suspension bridge if need be an interlocking piece that catches top and bottom .

You have to figure out where the most stress load is going to be.

Is most of it going to be a downward force pushing down or when the shock is pushed up

Your new pieces should extend several inches past the damaged sections.

I use 1/8" it works for me but if your going to be doing a lot of dropping off rocks 3/16" won`t hurt .

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

If it was me this is exactly what I would do:
Use a piece of cardboard and make a exact template if the front section of your frame. Lay that out on a 1/8" piece of steel and cut it out. Lay that template onto the side of frame and weld it solid all the way around. You can drill a few holes and weld them if needed. I don't see no need in wrapping the frame or using angle. Suede that's a great idea but I do not see it needed is this situation. Although if you do try the angle then don't buy a piece of angle. Use 1/8" sheet and bend it your self. This is easily done if you weld the top of the frame first notching out the motor mount of course. Once welded take a large pair of pliers and bend the steel over. Finishing it off with a hammer. As you weld beat it with a hammer so you get a nice flush plate. Upon finishing you can trim the left over steel with a grinder making a nice clean plate that matches the frame exact.

These are just suggestions. However once it's fixed you better brace it. I would brace it using a Y design. Have to pieces welded to the hoop making a V then tie one piece from it to the frame making you a nice little Y... If you notch some tubing you can make a nice little brace fairly easy.

Hope this info helps bud...

v_man

You guys are great , much appreciated .

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It all comes down to what you want to do.

The harder the vehicle is used the stronger it needs to be.

v_man

I was able to find some pre cut frame reinforcement steel (3/16") from trail gear.

I guess a lot of people are breaking stuff on their Yota's...



The 3/16" piece





All clamped up





All scratched up








The quality and appearance of the weld was directly related to how well I could
move my fat head in the fender well , and get a good position to weld .
This end wasn't too bad






Getting the hoop on now




A little paint to make it look pretty , and keep the iron oxide at bay


And finally , the whole point of it , getting my shock back on , she's riding a bit
smoother tonight

Cyberman

Looks good. I don't think it'll cause too much problem, but I notice that your shock mount is turned 90 degrees on the axle.