btm

First post. Well, just scored a very,very clean 88 4runner that has been on non-op for about 5 years and don't now when the last time it was actually running. I don't really care what the PO said about it, prefer to start from a fairly pessimistic point of view.

Judging from the overall condition I have no reason to think the motor or tranny is FUBARed; just the opposite, really. I want to be prudent. PO reports that it was " running funny" last time it moved. Who knows. The Odometer shows 190K mileage but it was probably highway mileage for the most part. The rig was from a CA bay area commuter town.

I would be interested in hearing what you would recommend for initial startup attempts. I am thinking rotate engine manually to check for clearance/binding issues, change oil, and fire it up. Worried that fuel may have gelled or varnished as that was the death-stroke to the head on our 260z that had been sitting for a few years prior to purchase. Varish got in the valve guides and prompted a head job that might not have been necessary if we had drained the tank and flushed the lines, but that was a 10 year + barn find.

Any tips? Seafoam it? I have most common diagnostic tools like compression tester, etc.. Just not used to the 4 banger.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

Pop off the valve cover and check the condition of the timing guides. Check for coolant in the oil. Could have also blown a head gasket.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Check Fluids!! in engine.

Drain Gas

Fresh battery

Get it running.

Now the real fun starts.

Get it running see if it is going to be real expensive or just expensive.

Go from there!!

Go luck.

abecedarian

Pics? Sorry, have to ask since my '88 4Runner was stolen.

One thing I would suggest is to change the oil and filter, then disconnect the coil wire to the distributor and crank it for 10-20 seconds, at least twice, waiting a minute or so between each time. Basically to pump oil up around the various parts.

Depending on how much fuel was left in the tank, some Seafoam in the there wouldn't hurt much- just don't put too much: pour a proprtional amount of Seafoam into the tank ... gauge says 1/4 tank, pour 1/4 can of Seafoam... and a little bit of Acetone and Isopropyl Alcohol in the tank (no more than 6-8 ounces each if the tank is full) will help with varnish.

scope103

Oiling the engine is a good idea. Ideally, you should disconnect the fuel pump as well; otherwise, you'll fill the cylinders and exhaust with un-burned fuel. When you re-connect the ignition that fuel can ignite with a bad result.

While you're at it, stay away from starting fluid. Bad for the engine, bad for you, bad all around.

TrikeKid

Check fluid levels and condition and top off, start and run it for a while, then change all the fluids is what I'd do. Also don't lose hope if it runs like hell/smokes/ticks when you first start it. I've swapped a few junkyard engines in that needed to be run for a bit before they were "right" if it's been sitting for long enough even priming it won't get oil into every thing until the engine gets warm again.

btm

Thanks everyone for the input. As it turns out, it won't crank at all and I can't turn the crank pulley with a cheater. Also turns it out might be more like 1o years since operation.

Oil looks good, hell everything looks good. I went old school on it and pumped the cylinders full of marvel mystery oil.

If that doesn't break it loose the pan comes off and we decide what to do after checking rod by rod.

On the plus side, if anyone is looking for a factory radio for a 1988 DLX I got you covered.

As far as the theft question, we are clean but if you want to send me the last bit of your VIN I'll verify just because.

InternetRoadkill

You need to drain and replace all the fluids. They are likely full of water from condensation.