cred92

I let this brake shop do my drums and ever since the parking brake only pulls out three clicks at most, the other night I used the brake on a hill drove home about ten miles and the brakes were steaming from water dripping on them ( it was raining) way too hot to touch.

How would I go about adjusting the brake shoes do they need adjusted r maybe the parking brake?

It's on a 92 dlx standard cab 4x4

socal_style

Jack up your truck and secure it. Remove the six lugs that huld the wheel. Block front wheels so the truck won't roll and disengage your parking break. You should leave the clutch in gear.

After removing the wheel remove the drum. Just below the cylinder you will see a gear. With a screwdriver rotate the gear upwards. Spin the gear a whole turn and try putting your drum back on.

The drum should slide on with light resistance.

BoredOutnJackdUp

Open the drum and see whats going on. i had my brakes dragging so hard on my 1st gen that i had to accelerate DOWN the mountain because i didnt have room to take tools hunting haha. all it was, was the spring had broke so just had to replace one shoe and spring.

socal_style

Then do the same to the other side. When you are all finished put the wheels back on and tighten the luggs.

Moonfish

The parking brake needs to be setup so it is 14 or whatever clicks until it starts to engage. If you can only pull 3, it is set too tight.

PismoJoe

You don't need to remove the drum or your wheel to set the shoe drag. Actaully, it is preferred to leave the wheel on to see just how much its dragging. Its hard to gauge the actual drag with the wheel off, it feels to tight when you spin the axle. There is an access plug on the back side of the drum that allows you to get a flathead screwdriver in to adjust the shoes.

You want the wheel to turn maybe 1 1/2 to 2 rotations and then STOP with the drag.

If your drag is correct, the shop could have made the parking brake adjustment in the cable itself. About mid way under the rig, you can see the parking brake cable. It has a nut and a lock nut on a long bolt, loosen and tighten this until it feels right. If its not exactly 14 clicks you might die. Just saying.

92dlxman

right on pismojoe.

however, the easiest fix is to take it back to the shop and say WTF IS THIS?! and make them do what you paid em for. a proper brake job. they oughta throw in new pads too since yours have pre-mature wear

PismoJoe

This is true. If the drag is fine, I wouldn't be a dick to them, but yeah its a good idea to get what you paid for

pruney81

the shoes probably just need to be adjusted back in. You can either do it from the outside without taking the wheel off, just take off the rubber boot on the inside of the rear wheel and I found it helps to shine a flashlight in there to see the click wheel on the adjusters and just turn the wheel downwards with a screwdriver a few rotations and then get in and drive it around and engage and disengage the parking brake a few times and it should adjust properly, unless they cranked your parking brake down too much under the truck then I'd loosen it back up.

Or you could just take it back cuz your shoes might be a little worn now but I wouldn't worry so much about that unless you drove around for weeks with it like that

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

When you back the brakes off you need 2 tools one to hold the arm off the adjuster the other to turn the adjuster .

other wise it can only tighten.

I would check how hard it is to turn the wheel with the e-brake off if it turns hard then the shoes need to be backed off.

If there is just a little drag the e-brake cable is adjusted up to tight and you need to lengthen the cable at the adjuster in front of the fuel tank.

My question is did you not notice this when you left the shop after the brake work was done or at least by the time you got home

socal_style

Did you fix it?

cred92

Wow thanks for all the replies my email never received that I got any n I jus checked it, I'm gonna jack the truck up tomorrow and see what the deal is. I've carried the truck back three or four times to this shop needles to say I'm not going back anymore. At first they left the shoes loose and were rubbing the backing plate r something n making racket it took three times to fix.

I've only been driving like 5 miles to work so i hope it hasn't messed much up. I'll prolly pull the wheels n take off a round of adjustment then see how the parking brake is n put it back together and adjust through the whole in the backing plate. Can I fit two screwdrivers through that whole to adjust?

cred92

Well I ended up taking my tires n drums off they would barely spin dragging so bad. I adjusted um in really a lil much but shouldn't it adjust as I use the parking brake?

MudHippy

You can do it like that. But it's easiest to use 1 flat head screwdriver to push on the release mechanism. Then use a brake spoon to rotate the adjusting wheel up/down. Very useful tool for the price, $5 or less at any auto parts joint.


The way I do it is to tighten them manually just enough to barely drag. If I can spin the tire/wheel pretty close to 1 full revolution before it stops, then they're right where I like 'em. If the tire/wheel stops spinning before a full rev. then they're too tight. More than a full rev. and they're too loose. Works for me.

PS, my emergency brake cable broke a long time ago, so there's no other way for me to adjust them besides manually operating the bellcranks on each side. Sounds like your cable needs adjusted too(needs to be 11-17 clicks).

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...tem/11-4wd.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3checksan.pdf

cred92

Okay bringing back my own thread hopefully for some answers cause idk what to do.

Okay so start of the thread brakes super tight barelly got um off, loosened um up way loose but using the parking brake it finally tightened up and ebrake would hold on hill.

Today while going on a ten mile trip to the store then back could hear the same dragging noise that the shop i carried it to could never figure out and i also noticed that the left drum was extremely hot to the touch like it was when i had to loosen the brakes up. Right shoe was cool to the touch. Does anybody think it could be a sticking brake cylinder? Im so frustrated i wish id never carried it to this shop, and its a very reputable shop but damn why cant they figure it out.

Somebody help me out lol please.

MudHippy

The trick seems to be to not overtighten them while adjusting them. Or sometimes they'll overtighten themselves when they automatically adjust(when applying the e-brake).

Just curious, how gunked up are the adjusters? You might try cleaning and lubing those. They always want to work a little better when they're well lubed ya know?

cred92

Well they didnt look too gunked up when i looked at them, i noticed my wheel cylinders idk wether i squeezed um r i pulled the lil rubber cap up n it dripped off a lil bit would that be normal? the driver side looked really ruff though almost like the rubber caps were wore off

cred92

Okay sooo give up this morning jacked up truck and passenger wheel spins freely but drivers side rear barely spins can hear it dragging. Carry it to an expert tire store not the same place that screwed the first job up. Leave it and they call back and say need new drums have hot spots in them, wheel cylinders okay not leaking tiny bit seeping.

They say Proportioning valve and it'll be tomorrow before they can give me a price from Toyota. I guess their talking about a load sensing proportion valve? That from Toyota parts east is 132$ part!!! I really don't want to jus keep throwing money on stuff that I could use for bumpers r cool stuff. Please Somebody give me some advice, anybody disagree with the shop? I kinda do since only the left rear is dragging.

fork

it sure sounds like they didn't back the adjusters out when they put in new shoes. I don't see how a proportioning valve could do this on only one side. im pretty sure the LSPV only adjusts the bias between front and rear hydraulic pressure. i'd advise against buying an LSPV and instead either get someone to look at it who actually knows what they're doing with drum brakes or just rip the rear apart and do it yourself so you know it's done right.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I feel sorry for you.

I don`t think Toyota brakes are all that hard.

I am thinking just a guess that the problem is in the adjusters .

One or both are not working correct .

Brakes are one of those things you really need to be up close and personal.

Are you sure that the Emergency brake bell cranks are moving freely in the bell crank brackets on both sides . I wonder if they got the e-brake linkage hooked up or one side fell apart.

Could be one drum is worn that much more than the other

Mud Hippy no your brakes will not adjust going back ward and braking