colsoncj

So this is a new one for me.... Mashed the brakes on a 94 pickup, went to the floor and the brake light came on. Released the pedal, brake again, this time the seatbelt and brake lights came on, and it was soft; pedal wise.

BTW this is all after driving it for a week with no issues, but never this hard of a stop.

The brake fluid is not low, or empty, so it shouldnt be the low fluid warning. I'm thinking it may be a weak rubber line, high pressure creating a pinhole leak, pedal goes to the floor, but why the lights? Given the sensor for low fluid is on the resevoir, even if the m/c bottomed out or saw some air, it shouldnt have thrown the idiot lights.

Anyone got any known solutions/answers?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

How you doing? Havent seen you on here in awhile and got some parts off you some years ago. I had to swap Brake Resivoir caps due to one going bad, I bounced the truck and it was low on fluid. I refilled it and it still stayed lit. Even moved the float on the cap, still stayed lit.

Also the parking brake will light it. Is the tab on the brake assembly pusing all the way agianst the little box at the end next to the firewall?

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

My reservoir ran low once and the light came on. I topped it off and the light was still lit. I had to disconnect the battery for 30 seconds or so to reset it. I think the computer stores it like a trouble code.

colsoncj

Doing good Terry! How have you been?

I'll check that the ebrake is all the way off, that could be it. This truck has the sensor in the resevoir, not the cap, hoping its not that. Also real curious why my brakes went soft... should make for fun troubleshooting in a hotel parking lot.

colsoncj

So issue is a rear line blew out, not sure which. I'm about 200 miles from home, so going to do a parking lot bandaid. Need to plug the rear port on the Master Cylinder, and plug the port in the T from the front system that sends a pressure signal to the LSPV. Would REALLY like to know if anyone knows what size/type of plug I need to accomplish plugging off both those ports.

scope103

Driving 200 miles with a bandaid on your brakes? Are you sure you want to do that? If you have internet access, I'll bet there are mechanics wherever you are now.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

Did you check the local Advance, Autozone, or NAPA? I'm sure one of them has a rear line in stock and they all have brake fluid for sure. Not hard to replace and bleed brakes in a parking lot.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I PMd you. Dont know sizes you are asking about. You get thru this way, I probably have the parts and tools you need if you take 71 to 60 out of Neosho.

colsoncj

Bandaiding won't be an issue. The broke line is pretty tucked up in there, and I'd prefer to make all new lines when I can. The truck is a stick, and I'll still have 100% front brakes. Not too worried about making the trip, if the plugs dont leak and the fronts are solid. If that doesnt hold true, I'll figure out a new plan. I've had trucks where the LSPV blocked off almost all of the rear brakes before, and trucks where the rears didnt even work (before fixing them). Not much of a big deal. Fronts are the majority of your braking power anyway, and downshifting can be your friend!

I'd consider changing the line on the spot if it wasnt snowing, being in a hotel parking lot, and 20mph freezing winds. Not an ideal wrenching enviornment.

FYI, plugs are M10x1.00. Had to go with M10x1.00 adapters to 3/16, then 3/16 plug. Parts stores here dont exactly have a lot of metric/toyota stuff. Not even a single master cylinder here to check threads... internet searching does wonders.

By the way, thanks Terry, PM'd you back.

colsoncj

I would like to post for clarity, that what I am doing is most likely not recommended for noobs or those unfamilar with driving vehicles that do not have perfect brakes. This will cause the vehicle to act differently, increasing braking distance, and is a modification that really is only recommend for experienced mechanics, as a "trail fix".

aviator

Good comment Cory... also should note that if you do this "emergency repair" and are involved in an accident you could find yourself up the proverbial creek and around the corner... ins. will most likely deny even knowing you [lol] and the charges could be severe.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I know you're "fixed for now", but whats the deal with the seat belt lamp? I haven't poked around in the wiring diagrams for it but it seems totaly coincidental, you didn't dump your coffee in the floor or anything when the brakes went to the floor I assume.

colsoncj

Agreed Aviator... Truck is safely in my shop, waiting for me to have time to fab new lines for the rear.

Co 94... it ended up being coincidental. the seatbelt buckle seems to be on the sticky side, I assume jarring it during the initial hard brake that started this whole thing tripped the internal switch and the no-seatbelt light (no seatbelt buckled at the time). Since then, if I dont have my seatbelt buckled yet and its not on, I can jiggle it, and the light comes on.

Good followup though! For trail rides where a brake line is compromised, this could be a very easy trail-side repair to get a rig back to camp safely. In fact, I have added these plugs to my "trail repair kit." For any toyota, make sure you FULLY understand the brake plumbing schematics before attempting, and again, remember this greatly changes a vehicle's ability to stop. However I can see this working on 4runners/pickups and landcruisers alike. In fact, I've had a front rubber line fail on a trail on a cruiser, this would have been an easy emergency fix to safely be able to get it back to camp to change the line.