daddio

Anybody happen to know the length of the two long brake lines from the front R wheelwell to the LSPV on an 88 longbed?
Mine are rusted and I wanted to replace while I have the bed off. It seems about 10 feet. I would get prebent from Toyota, but they seem to be out of stock.
Would rather avoid flaring. Anybody do this joining two 60" pre-flared tubes?

stinkfoot

Get it measured out accurately, go from there.

Splicing wouldn't scare me at all, as long as I know it's spliced properly. I've spliced lines that had wear points before. Just doesn't bother me. Always had good results. The best option would be a full length pre-bent, but that isn't always an option - or much fun.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Why is it your scared of flaring??

It is not that hard to learn.

I find it much easier to just buy the 25' rolls

Then does your LSPV even work any more??

daddio

Not sure, how can you tell? LSPV is rusty, but intact.
I haul and tow from time to time, so would rather keep it functional.

Yeah, guess I could buy a roll of tubing and fittings, was just trying to avoid buying a flaring tool.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much all the ones that came through here there was no major difference with them plumbed in or with them removed.

I grew up driving trucks without any such valves you just learned how to drive with a empty truck .

What the LSPV does is limit the amount of fluid to the rear wheel cylinders the less weight the less braking.

The more weight you get the full braking to the rear axle depending on brake adjustment etc.

daddio

I bent my new lines to match pretty close, but not exact. So the new lines skip one or two of the original clamps.

How important is it to match the original bends and stock rubber clamp locations? What to avoid with reroutes? Zip ties ok?

Seems like avoiding metal on metal contact is a good idea. How about putting the lines through a piece of bike inner tube where the lines cross a crossmember?